Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah well just wondering what would be the best way to get the best times to launch an Auto. I can think of a couple of ways:

1: Put it in Neutral, rev to about 3000rpm and when it goes green dump it in drive?

2: Hold the brake pedal with the left foot and then still rev to 3000rpm and when it goes green let go off the brake. Does this method actually spool the turbo up though?

3: Same as 2 except with park brake.

4: High stall to always give 3000rpm when idling?

Apart from 4 being obvious, what else would be the best method to use? Or have I missed something? Perhaps shifting from 1st to 2nd to 3rd then drive manually? So what do you guys with Auto's or experience with launching auto's reckon?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10221-best-way-to-launch-an-auto/
Share on other sites

Plenty of practice here :D

1. Bad for Auto + Wheel spin.

2. At 3000 rpm with just foot brake on you will find the wheels might start to spin. And I do not think it spools the Turbo up.

3. :)

4. Stall converter?.................often wondered my self.

Foot Brake on Hard.

Hand Brake on Hard.

Hold revs @ 2800-3000. Release both on green, any more and you will wheel spin which will loose valuable time.

I let the Auto do the shifting, as I found that manually using the t-bar will cause you to hit the rev limiter and or hang for a few seconds. And that means everything down the 1/4.

Also dont bother with a burnout unless you.

1. Have some serious HP.

2. Are running slicks. Otherwise you will get wheel spin of the line, which can easily knock a second of your time.

Come to WillowBank next on Wednesday the 19th and we can race :)

http://www.willowbank-raceway.com.au/

I have been told the Auto tranny is good to around 300hp.

All I have done to mine atm is.

K&N pod, 2Stage Turbo Smart Boost controller 10/12 psi, 3" turbo to tip exhaust.

Whilst I would like to convert it to a manual, I am slack bugger and enjoy the Auto.

I also find that in the current set up (No big turbo etc) it spools up very quickly and find very little on the road keeps up off the mark.

1: Put it in Neutral, rev to about 3000rpm and when it goes green dump it in drive?

Your a madman, and will do nothing but kill your gearbox and give you a reason to get a manual!! :D

2: Hold the brake pedal with the left foot and then still rev to 3000rpm and when it goes green let go off the brake. Does this method actually spool the turbo up though?

It will defiantly not rev to 3000rpm, with out your wheels spining

This is called "stalling" and yes it will make the turbo come on boost while you are sitting there, i have no idea with the later skylines, but the rb30et skylines, (what ever they are) come standard with a 2000-2100 stall converter, or this means exactly if you stomp on the picks and hold it flat, it will rev till 2000-2100 rpm before it starts to do a skid? i would not imagine the later models are any greater then 2000, as it hinders "old fart" drivability!

I have a vl turbo, and i can come on 10psi boost sitting still, (with the standard stall/torque converter), i have just upgraded it to a 2800-2900

3: Same as 2 except with park brake.

Wont work! park break wont be strong enough/wont be able to let it off quick enough,

4: High stall to always give 3000rpm when idling?

As i 1/2 explained above,

a histall is a modified torque converter,

This lets it slip till the desired limit,

a 3000stall is quiet large! and worth around $900? if built correctly!.

This will JUMP the car off the line, (if it dosent sit there doing a smokie) its like a controlled "dumping" the clutch at 3000/what ever you stall it to, very nice!!,

another thing to look at is shift kits,

once again. i dont know if they are available for these autos, but you can still "trick" them up by uping the oil pressure and a few more tricks,

Shift kits make it shift alot harder!, instead of the slopbox they come as standard!!

Anyway, i hope iwas some help!!

:edit:

tricked up Autos are fantastic for huge turbos,

with a big stall converter, say 2900-3300ish? you can sit on the line for 10secounds? or so till the massive turbo comes on boost, then leave the line with lots of beans!

You will have noticed this with alot of the drag turbo cars,

Ie that drag s14 a with the fj20det, that thing took about 20secounds to spool!! madness!! :rolleyes:

thats the kickdown switch

it shouldt lag much at all should changealmost straight away

when i stomp on it at 40 kmh it kicks down so hard that it lights up the rears and i just go burning up the st

mods so far

pod

3" turbo back

gtr intercooler

12psi

fuel cut defender ( my own design )

garrett T4 highflowed

1: Put it in Neutral, rev to about 3000rpm and when it goes green dump it in drive?

I can just see it now...

Put it in Neutral, rev to about 3000rpm and when it goes green dump it in drive...

***BANG***

Auto destroys itself!

Civic/hyundi pulls away laughing :lol: all the way to the Ricebahn!

(CAUTION: Kids don't try this at home as Mum needs her camry to get to work!)

MEGA

*go and buy a 'line locker', activate it for the launch, deactivate it as you reach the braking area (end'o 1/4)

*Get some wide tyres with high proflie for the back and let them down to 19psi or so. Do a burnout (use the line locker for this too)

*Put it into 1st and lean on the throttle until the back wheels just start to turn and back off a mickeys hair. This has the thing 'stalled' and ready to go. Floor it and jump off the brake as you take off.

On the stock auto you'd probably get a 1700rpm or so stall going, thats quite a good bit of torque to slam the turbo quickly into boost (std turbo comes on around 2200rpm).

Some thing else you may need is a bigger trans cooler, overheating the trans is a quick killer of them.

High stall is a good idea if the box if beefed up a little more. wouldn't need anything more than a 2500rpm job on the stock turbo.

  • 3 weeks later...
Guest TTZ32

The convertor is the actual fluid coupling between the engine and gearbox, think of it as as doing the same job as a clutch in a manual, except engages itself as rpm increases.

Can't be turned on and off, once its fitted, thats the way it is:)

If it's built properly it'll be hardly noticeable apart from off the line.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...