Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy guys,

/yeah I've searched for the answer but nothing useful or related popped up..

What's the difference between the Autech version and the ordinary Stagea's besides the obvious? What I mean is, was there any mechanical or structural differences between the two? How different is the engine wiring between the?

Also, will the brakes (I mean the rotors and calipers together) from a R33 GTR bolt straight on for both front and rear? Is the exhaust off a Stagea anywhere close to what a R33 Skyline might be?

Yeah mate got a smashed up GTR being pulled apart at the moment and thought maybe it is a feasible conversion. If not then no worries.

Thanks ^_^

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102214-autech-and-rb26/
Share on other sites

here is some answers...and a question.

RS4 VS Autech is like GTST vs GTR, but in wagon form.

33GTR brakes will bolt up, but need bigger wheels.

Exhaust, no chance. Ive tried, stagea is much longer

Got GTR manual box for sale, i need one relativly urgently.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102214-autech-and-rb26/#findComment-1874517
Share on other sites

The Autech has strengthened chassis at various points, also an updated interior.

completely different driveline(axels, driveshafts, brakes are all improved), suspension and a different engine completely.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102214-autech-and-rb26/#findComment-1874837
Share on other sites

The Autech runs an R33 GTR driveline, bilstein sus, big brembos and rotors. They have extensive body bracing. Is manual only, and are fantastic to drive. They are a basically an RS4 bought brand new from Nissan (hence RB25 build plate) and modified by Autech and still came with Nissan warranty from new. Around $110000 AUD new. Very rare car, still waiting on build numbers from Nissan. If anyone has the build numbers I would love to know.

The interior is much nicer as Terminal pointed out. Great seats and a sportier trim.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102214-autech-and-rb26/#findComment-1874895
Share on other sites

Will be expensive though... rare as Autech Stagea

UAS

1997 NISSAN STAGEA AUTECH EDITION

Rare 1997 Model

Black Bodywork

Factory RB26DETT

5 Speed Manual

Factory Autech Bodykit

R34 GTR OEM Wheels

38,000 Km's

Truly Unique Vehicle

autstagfront.jpg

autstagside.jpg

autstagint.jpg

autstageng.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102214-autech-and-rb26/#findComment-1875793
Share on other sites

I have now seen two different base models that these were produced off. From what I understand most of them originated from the 25X, as this was the cheapest 4wd to come from the Nissan factory, but I have also seen one made from an RS4. 3 of my friends have 260's, and the ones that came from the 25X were the newer model that had the Xenon lights etc, and also didn't still have the AT dash with the gear indicator up the centre like you can see on the above one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102214-autech-and-rb26/#findComment-1875827
Share on other sites

I went and "test" drove the black 260RS at street Machines, they want like $51k (EDIT: $49,990) for it, anyway it shat all over my RSfourV+S, but for all the good reasons mentioned above!!

I want one :P

http://ucn.dealernet.com.au/detail.php?ses...F&ucnid=1633426

406124.jpg

406131.jpg

Edited by Ska
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102214-autech-and-rb26/#findComment-1875918
Share on other sites

This is what I understand:

The rear axle (since the front end is essentially a R33 GTR) might snap

There are structural reinforcement with the Autech's

So...

What axles are the Autech running? I am guessing it's GTR ones as well and what are the structural reinforcement to be exact? Just couple of braces here and there or are there additional welds to the chassis/body?

My plan is, bring a Stagea in and comply it then slap all the parts over from that wreck including the manual box then engineer it. If the 'ordinary' Stagea is too soft (in terms of suspension/chassis strength) then I'll scrap this idea and forget it...lol.

Thanks for the information so far :w00t:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102214-autech-and-rb26/#findComment-1876318
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have the option to do this. Nobody but me ever did this (go slower, I mean) Everyone seems to fall victim to "This would be a great setup for you, but for me, I need a little more power..."
    • Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
×
×
  • Create New...