Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just thought I'd share:

R33GTST

Mods:

10 psi

3" dump (batmbl)

3" CAT (batmbl)

3.5" Cat back kakimoto

Pipercross Panel High flow filter in stock box

R34 intercooler

PowerFC

Results:

BASE MAP: At 10psi gave around 145rwkw - see graph - AFR very rich and some aggressive timing in the wrong spots.

TUNED MAP: Around 172rwkw. I think final run was 170.9rwkw as some timing was taken out. On the dyno knock was kept below 20.

ON THE ROAD: Feels more repsonsive, but most gain is when you get over 3500rpm - 4000rpm. Going round corners the tacho flies towards redline as the expensive michelins battle for grip where they didn't before. Only thing is knock went to 58 on the way home. I might call the tuner in the morning..he seems to know his stuff though. I'll have to see when the knock is occuring. Hard to see on the hand controller..might have to get someone else todrive and have a look at the bar chart..

I should ad that the dyno is apparently quite conservative. Cars often make 5-10 kw at the wheels more on other dynos for some reason.

The tuners thought this was a good power level at this boost level with a fairly stock setup. I didn't ask for max power just a reliable tune. With light/medium loads tuned aswell.

forwebsite2yp.jpg

Edited by benl1981
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102258-pfc-tune-result-r33gtst/
Share on other sites

Nice power - yeah we both might have to talk to our tuners.

................. Before....................After............. Gain

3000rpm 100rwkw ............100rwkw

4000rpm 114rwkw ............116rwkw ..... 2kw

4500rpm 125rwkw ............134rwkw ..... 9kw

5000rpm 138rwkw ............153rwkw ...... 15kw

5500rpm 144rwkw ............164rwkw ..... 20kw

6000rpm 148rwkw ............170rwkw ..... 22kw

6500rpm 148rwkw ............172rwkw ..... 24kw

Not sure if the before and after are correct for the low rpm as he did some tuning at lower rpm before he did the power runs.

Edited by benl1981

Skyl9,

Compare average power of the safc to pfc. Peak power is not the be all and end all. THen there's the factor of dyno's provide different read outs, some lower some higher. :P

+ Its only 10psi, push 11-12psi and it will be definitely noticable. :)

Edited by Cubes

I have pretty much the same mods as you.

Do you have electronic boost controller? I use the PFC one.

I made 207 rwkw (hub dyno) at 0.7 bar (10 psi).

Was the hand controller used to tune? Mine was tuned using the Official Apexi Laptop software.

The FC Datalogit was used to tune it. No electronic boost controller. Just a simple bleed setup.

The tuner is the one Sydneykid recommends - he tunes 400kw hondas and many skylines. Compared to others he thought this is a good figure.

Not sure how a hub dyno reads compared to others.

On other dynos this could be 180-190rwkw. When you think it is only 10psi I am pretty happy. What do LS1s or Xr6T stock put out at the wheeels?

FFS Why do people keep comparing results of one car on one dyno with results of antoehr car on another dyno!?

You should all know by now that a dyno is a tuning tool - you can calibrate it to read onehundredmillionbaziawatts if you want to...

it's RELATIVE INCREASE that is important not the absolute number

benl1981 - good result and increase from tuning.

Thanks Ronin. Yeah I think people get carried away with "an R33 can make 200rwkw with these mods etc".

I didn't say to the tuner "others have made 200 etc" I was happy with the gain that he achieved. On the road the acceleration is much better.

I know Im not going to win dyno comps and I dont really care too much about the end power figure. This tells me the car is relatively healthy and running to its potential giving the mods I have.

Thanks R31nismoid. Yeah I'm not in ahurry to pull the turbo off it. The way I see it the next power increment is a little bit more expensive.

To go further than this safely:

Possibly new AFM $300

FMIC $600

new Turbo $2000

fuel pump $200

+other things

+time

+it won't look stock

About $3000 or more.

I know the car has a lot more potential but I'm pretty happy with it.

Probably similar in acceleration to a 250kw LS1 or XR6 turbs but I'm not really sure - maybe they would eat me I dont know. My smaller 6 makes the power up higher.

Skylines are a bit lighter - my car about 1400kg vs about 1700kg.

Quite an adrenalin rush now.

Sure I could push it and get another 15rwkw but how long does the turbo last?

Edited by benl1981

Yeah EBC should be your next step... then you can bump it up to 1 bar next time an XR6 with a front mount pulls up next to you B)

Plus the advantage of boost much earlier in the rev range.

Edited by Drift_Limo

I have a bleed valve on it at the moment, one of the $30 ones on the forums.

I might swap it for an orifice piece that goes in place of the standard solenoid. Then it looks more stock.. just thought Id get the tune on the bleed valve since it may bring boost on a little earlier..atleast then the load points are tuned

These cars seem to hold boost pretty well.,

Yeh ive been reading up those $30 boost controllers are pretty good. Supposedly there not even bleed valves. Id stick with what you have if your happy. Im going to go down your line of mods but i'll be doing a fmic when boost is upped.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah this was also my suspicion, that pineapples exist to reinforce the OEM bushes because people CBF taking the subframe out to do it. Basically that pineapples and subframe lock collars perform the same intended task. The cup still bolts in under the bush/crush tube.. as to how it'll go I don't know. Two of the bushes at the back look mostly the right shape. The ones up front clearly have the impressions left by the pineapples. Time will tell whether this will work/make any difference. Ideally I would not want any lock collars or pineapples, I'd just want the bush to do the job of the bush. Time will tell if the car works correctly with only the poly bushes in the state they're in. Worth seeing, I think.  What panel work are you looking at? I'm shelving everything from the A pillar forward because it's shit/doesn't function and this was before I drove off at the track and then drove into somebody! A second hand Reo and brackets is $1000, which is just cray when Mr.Hammer turns this piece of metal in regular metal shape.. considering it needs to be drilled to be adapted to the GTR headlight brackets anyway... So I'm all for $0 instead of $2000 (new 34 GTR reo) for the same result lol.
    • I think he's already demonstrated that that's the way he's treating it post the paint jail release.
    • Yep that makes sense, thanks! I guess flogging these turbos in winter is more preferrable lol.
    • Bahahaha, bloody hell Greg. You've got bent and broken things, but instead, you're replacing perfectly good items. This story keeps getting more gregged!   Also, I'd 100% replace that reo if I were in your shoes, unless you panel beater is REALLY good. Even if you put another GTT one on there. Just because you've done so much nice body work lately, I'd say repair the body work fully  If it were more drift car spec, I'd be all "Hit it with a hammer and send it!"
    • There's a fair chance that my bushes are Nismo, because I'm reasonably sure that when asked the question (when putting the subframe into the car in ~2012) "What bushes do you want to run?", I'm pretty sure I would have answered "The stiff ones!". I had to put some silicone grease onto the GKTech inserts I jammed into them last week, because the bushes were quite resistant to having something jammed up their jacksies. So, I reckon you'll be best off doing Nismo + inserts. And, if I'd known you had PU bushes in the subframe AND PU pineapples, I perhaps would have said earlier that that's probably not a good idea. The pineapples are only intended to work with the stock type bushes, because those have a crush tube (which is what makes it end up looking like there is sloppy space in there - but doesn't, because the crush tube does make contact steel to steel) and the pineapples live in the space between the subframe's outer tube and the lower washer/bracket. But the PU bushes don't leave the space in the same way that the stock format ones do, and they do end up fighting for space. Order some bushes and collars and get to it.
×
×
  • Create New...