Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i got a bit of knock reading after my powerfc tune, but its all settled down nicely

i got 195rwkw with similar setup (r32 gtr cooler with modified forward facing plenum)

i dont see knock above 20 these days

Spoooks - did you do anything to cause the knock to settle down?

I just got to knock of 61 as I got high in the rev range in 2nd gear.

you will see this kind of behaviour if u have the standard intercooler.

what happens is that after a few WOT (Wide Open Throttle) runs, the i/c absorbs a lot of the heat produced by the turbo, as to allow cooler air to be ingested into the engine. Although, this heat absorbed by the i/c greatly reduces the cooling efficiency and given that the standard i/c core is very small in size, dissipating this heat will take a while.

so what u need to do after you go for a nice WOT run thru all the gears, is cruise the car (off boost) for 5-10mins as to allow the i/c to release the heat by the flow of ambient air thru the i/c and monitor your intake temps and knock (if u can) at all times.

if you're not doing this, then your intake temps will be increasing quite a lot which would cause the knock that u see.

I had only given it a bit of a hit in 1st then 2nd..I dont think this is heat soak. The tuner reckoned I could take it to the track the way it is with the R34 SMIC on it..

I realise a FMIC would be a bit better though...

Edited by benl1981
  • 2 weeks later...

Just to let you know I spoke to the tuner and a few others - apparently you can get a flash of the engine light in 2nd gear, knock sensors can pick up mechanical noise. Mine only flashes once or twice so may not be knock.

Mine hasn't done it much now.

Fuel economy is 10.65L/100km with some 15km one way trips (not too many traffic lights) and some longer 40km one way drives. Gave it a little stick from time to time but tried not to waste fuel by slowing and accelerating when trying to maintain speed.

I have probably gained 1-1.5L/100km. Difference would be more if you used a lot of throttle aswell.

At peak airflow - about 5010mV I think injectors were about 68% whereas before they were about 85% or something.

  • 2 weeks later...
At peak airflow - about 5010mV I think injectors were about 68% whereas before they were about 85% or something.

Don't be dissapointed with the power figure..

The 5010mV airflow figure reveals all.. :D

The dyno I run mine on I was pulling 4.98v to make 176rwkw.

So on my dyno with the motor ingesting 5010mV of air you would be pulling 180-190rwkw.

RB25DET's on my dyno generally pull around 190rwkw with 11-12psi.

So you are definitely making good solid power for 10psi.

Thanks Cubes. Yeah I'm pretty happy. You think the AFM voltage is a reasonble indication of power?

I'm getting the check engine flash a little in 2nd gear. I have seen knock hit 80. I called the tuner and he reckons that it is mechanical noise. When you lean out the mixtures he reckons that the silly mics pick this up more. He reckons he can richen it up and it will stop the knock readings but also kill power.

On the dyno he kept knock below 20. I also asked him if I see it flashing should I back off and he sort of said not really.

He is the tuner SK uses so is very good. Bit disheartening when you see the engine light flashing though..

just be careful though, I know every knock sensor is different, but my tuner said that knock in the head phones was audible when the Powerfc read 80 on the hand controller.

He said it was JUST audible, like barely audible at 80.

So If I keep mine below 40 I will be fine. 100 must be pretty bad though, I saw a few 100's pop up when I upgraded the turbo and had a ghetto tune in before I had a proper tune. Scary when you hear the popcorn sounds..

Thanks Cubes.  Yeah I'm pretty happy.  You think the AFM voltage is a reasonble indication of power? 

I think it is.... Its the amount of air the motor is ingesting.

How well the motor then uses that air is up to the tuner with regards to afr's and ign. timing. This is where its worth comparing WOT ign. values. :D

just be careful though, I know every knock sensor is different, but my tuner said that knock in the head phones was audible when the Powerfc read 80 on the hand controller.

He said it was JUST audible, like barely audible at 80.

So If I keep mine below 40 I will be fine. 100 must be pretty bad though, I saw a few 100's pop up when I upgraded the turbo and had a ghetto tune in before I had a proper tune. Scary when you hear the popcorn sounds..

I've found on the RB25's that a knock reading around 40-50 can be heard through a chassis ear but is not audible to the ear, however a knock reading around 80 is most defintely audible to the chassis ear and the naked ear.

I find If I full throttle second gear on the flat I don't get much knock. But if I load it up going up a hill..hoild it at 3500rpm and hit it, I will get the 3 flashes from the check engine at about 5000rpm.

I might talk to the tuner again or get him to look at it. Don't want it to be unsafe.

Its well known cars with lower diff ratio's are able to get away with a little more ignition timing, increase the ratio (numerically decrease) and you will have to pull some ign. timing out.

It may be spiking a little at 3500rpm causing det also. :rolleyes:

The way mine is tuned now I can drop it in fifth up a hill and I will get high knock values... BUT how often do I do this.. never. :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
×
×
  • Create New...