Max Anti Squat = Max Traction For Track?

[Sydneykid]

Gary if your saying this here , how come on the R33 gtst group buy in the settings for the bushes you say "max anti squat" ?

Im getting the car aligned finally tomorrow (i bought the full kit). Hill climb is on sunday so i need to know if i should swap the bushes back to neutral... ?

Also while im going, with the adjustable bars .... what conditions warrant what changes ? ie if its tail happy, or understeering etc which bar to change to help condition ?

Thanks

Gary

Hi Gary, rear subframe alignment first, simply question, complicated answer. Basically it comes down to how much power it has, if power oversteer is a problem then set it up for "Maximum Traction". If it never power oversteers and has understeer on corner exit then set it up for "Drift". If it is neutral, then set it up for "All Round Performance".

As posted elsewhere in the last couple of days, personally I adjust the opposite end. For example if it is understeering, I stiffen up the rear stabiliser bar. Conversely if it is oversteering, I stiffen up the front stabiliser bar. If I already have the bar on full hard, I them soften up the other end.

Have a great weekend going up the hill, I will be at Eastern Creek all weekend for the NSW State Road Racing Championship Round 2 with the race team.

Cheers

Ps; Hillclimbs are kinda like drags, the start is all important, so I would lean towards the "Maximum Traction" setting.

[djr81]

Ps; Hillclimbs are kinda like drags, the start is all important, so I would lean towards the "Maximum Traction" setting.

There is an important difference however - and one that may make a difference to how you set the car up. Many hillclimbs start on an uphill section - so you already have built in a fair degree of squat without adjusting the suspension. You are as likely to bog the car as belt the rev limiter on launch.

Also it is not untypical for there to be a slow hairpin at some stage along the hill - keeping the thing on boost can be difficult at that point. So traction may not be as important as keeping the motor working within the rev range.

Just a bit more confusing info for you to think about.

[Sydneykid]

There is an important difference however - and one that may make a difference to how you set the car up. Many hillclimbs start on an uphill section - so you already have built in a fair degree of squat without adjusting the suspension. You are as likely to bog the car as belt the rev limiter on launch.

Also it is not untypical for there to be a slow hairpin at some stage along the hill - keeping the thing on boost can be difficult at that point. So traction may not be as important as keeping the motor working within the rev range.

Just a bit more confusing info for you to think about.

You really are trying to confuse the poor guy aren't you?

I went to a great effort to keep it simple, and you have to go and complicate it

Next time I will write 10 pages and really cover the whole world of possibilities

cheers

[Fastrotor]

Thanks for the info Gary. I'll play it by ear and change the bushes to suit for the next round based on what it does this time.

Yes it does start on an incline ..... not so bad for me though, im auto !

The start guy holds a wedge under the front tyre so the manual guys dont have to be on the brake before running .

Thanks

Gary

[djr81]

You really are trying to confuse the poor guy aren't you?

I went to a great effort to keep it simple, and you have to go and complicate it

Next time I will write 10 pages and really cover the whole world of possibilities

cheers

Who, me?

Sorry, just trying to make the point that traction on hillclimbs is not any where near the issue it is for drags or circuit work. Start is all important so get the left foot on the anchors, load the torque converter up & get up that hill.

Best advice Gary (Not, you the other Gary) is go hard and have fun (& don't stick it in the trees cause that can ruin your whole day).

Oh, yeah - I hope the start line bloke puts the chock under the rear tyre cause my car tends to slide down the camber of the road a bit on launch.

[Fastrotor]

Thanks guys.

Unfortunately i didn't make it due to a CAMS licence issue. Probably a good thing as i only finished dyno tuning it on the friday arvo, and entry had closed on Thursday ! But i was hopeful... nevermind, next one isnt far off.

Car had a major issue with backpressure anyway, i'll have to make myself a new cat back before next Sunday as thats the Bitumen Sprints race ! running 12psi boost, there was 11 psi BP at the top end !!!!

No wonder it only made 185rwkw's ! (Mainline Dynolog, so about 210 rwkw on a Dyno Dynamics)

Will redyno it once its changed.

Oh, the chock is under the front wheels too. Since i couldn't race i took pics for 5 hours ! I've put some better ones below.

We had a R32 GTR reset the best record this event !

Gary

350Z TURBO !

SOME DIDNT MAKE IT THRU THE TYRES UNSCATHED !!!

Guess the 4WD works

Edited April 30, 2006 by Fastrotor

[djr81]

Nice photos, mate. Good to see your day wasn't entirely wasted.

Can I ask what camera you used & also what exposure time you had? That is something I always struggle with. Presently I use 1/400 of a second.

[Fastrotor]

Nice photos, mate. Good to see your day wasn't entirely wasted.

Can I ask what camera you used & also what exposure time you had? That is something I always struggle with. Presently I use 1/400 of a second.

Thanks mate. Yeah i enjoy taking pics as much as racing so it was a good day none the less.

Camera was a Canon EOS20D with a 70-200 F4L USM lense.

Shutter speed 1/500 . Would like it abit higher , but only being the F4 lense and a cloudy day, it had to do.

If you want to know all the details , just save the pic to your HD, and then look at the properties, advanced ... its all in there.

Gary

[Fastrotor]

Back on topic, I raced the car last weekend at the bitumen sprint. I was pretty happy for a first outing , placing 19th out of 43 cars.

Driving with the auto is a pain...needs a big stall... im working on a custom controller for the next meet so i can select the gear i want via paddles/switches on the wheel.

Also need good tyres....

The car felt pretty good, handling wise.... if anything there was abit of understeer. I wasn't pushing it super hard, since everything was untested and new, brakes included .So i guess i should up the rear swaybar one notch for next round.

What i wanted to know , is how do you know when the understeer problem is just simply tyres , and can you go to far adjusting the bars to compensate for this ?

Thanks

Gary

[Thunderbolt]

What event were those photos taken from? Looks like an awesome bit of road, just a shame those tyres are there.

[Sydneykid]

Back on topic, I raced the car last weekend at the bitumen sprint. I was pretty happy for a first outing , placing 19th out of 43 cars.

Driving with the auto is a pain...needs a big stall... im working on a custom controller for the next meet so i can select the gear i want via paddles/switches on the wheel.

Also need good tyres....

The car felt pretty good, handling wise.... if anything there was abit of understeer. I wasn't pushing it super hard, since everything was untested and new, brakes included .So i guess i should up the rear swaybar one notch for next round.

What i wanted to know , is how do you know when the understeer problem is just simply tyres , and can you go to far adjusting the bars to compensate for this ?

Thanks

Gary

Hi Gary, with a road tyre you should be easily able to exceed the slip angle that the tyre will tolerate using the adjustable stabiliser bars. If it has some understeer, firm up the rear stabiliser bar setting until it starts to loose grip at that end. If it still understeers, then soften up the front bar.

If the front bar is already on full soft and it still understeers at mid corner or corner exit, then try some toe out, around 2 mm each side is a good place to start. Mid corner understeer can also be alleviated with more negative camber, the tyre temperatures will tell you if that the case. If it understeers on turn in, then some toe out on the rear will help with that.

You have all the adjustment tools you should need to balance the handling, once it is balanced (front and rear) the tyres are the weak link.

cheers

[Fastrotor]

Its from the Mt Stuart Hillclimb in Townsville.

Yeah the tyres are a pain, and alot of the cars come down with scuff marks on them.. But there to slow people down abit as its a long way down over the edge !

The council re-sealed the road in Asphalt last year so its real smooth and grippy now, unlike years previous when it was loose bitumen ! Noone could run race tyres as it chewed them to shreads , now its great.

[Fastrotor]

Thanks Gary for the info. I'll give it a try for the next round on the 3rd June. Let you know then.

Gary