Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the novelty of blue wears off quickly once u realise how hard it is to see in daylight and on angles.

but any standard sized (182x33.5mm) 40x2 module can go in. just this one im getting will be wide temp and very good viewing angles compared to most.

I trust your opinion! Can't wait for them to be ready so give us a heads up and I will make sure I have the coin ready!

BTW, VERY IMPRESSIVE! I hope it all goes well!

  • Replies 152
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Because of your obvious commitment to this project and the value of the information displayed I am prepared to pay $200 upfront now to be first in the que to get one.

Let me know your details for payment and I will await the finished product or be happy to do beta.

Thinking about it though it would have been ideal to replace the std three gauges in the centre console but its probably great in a mountable enclosure as well.

thanks for the offer turboX - i dont want to however take any prepayments as its puts a bit more pressure on me to get them done in a reasonable timeframe.

i havent seen a 10x4, but the aspect ratio wouldnt be good for something that u want to be slim so its not too tall to stop ur gauge view if you mount on steering column. 40x2 is good cause it can be mounted in many places without too many issues, and has enough character space to get all important sensor values out.

im expecting shipment of the LCD's and a few other components to arrive today. then im waiting on the prototype boards (10), hopefully get them next week some time. from there ill be able to make 1 or 2 for my own testing, and when a final component shipment arrives in anywhere from 1-4 weeks from now, ill be able to get out maybe 6-7 prototypes, without enclosure. ill be sending one prototype to the enclosure place for them to make enclosure for it - roughly 6-8 weeks from then i should have enclosures, and be ready to start getting some final ones done. in the meantime i should have final pcb's and all other components ready for maybe 15 initial orders, then hopefully another 25 soon after.

unfortunately i cant bring price down too much on components as its a double edge sword - if i go over 1000$ on a shipment, i get hit with 15-16% customs/import duty. but to buy certain things like LCD's in bulk, i need to go over $1000 to get reasonable prices.

i still am estimating delivered cost of final thing to be $200 or below. costs (such as import duty/gst) keep piling up, so its hard to keep costs down. probably best to stop speculating till i have the enclosures done and have final costs of everything added up.

im hoping the final software will include fault code checking and clearing of codes. and it should definitely include the integrated consult interface.

Edited by NewKleer

got 12 (2 free!) prototype boards delivered today. they look decent, some arent perfectly rectangular but we're only taking 0.5mm difference. wont have time to test any till wednesday. the two custom components on the board (buttons and switch) fit well so thats good.

- if i go over 1000$ on a shipment, i get hit with 15-16% customs/import duty. but to buy certain things like LCD's in bulk, i need to go over $1000 to get reasonable prices.

Good work! Can't wait!!

Would you not be able to organise them to ship in say lots of 10? Due to the small size shipping should pay for itself if the price is right... Just an idea!! (Although you have probably thought of it already! :( )

customs will take into account multiple packages over some period (not sure what the period is) to stop ppl splitting it up. only real way (legal way) to avoid it is to not spend over the threshold in a given time.

might be a bit hard to get the place that sends it out to split it up even if i wanted to, as their ordering etc process is very fast/efficient and to a given standard. i guess i could find out if i can pay for. something i can look into anyway, but we're only talking about $4 per device added due to customs, so not a huge amount.

i can just buy in lots of 10+ from now on for practically same cost, which is good as less money up front etc.

Edited by NewKleer

ah, no prob! I figured you had thought of it (espesially sine you have enough brains to invent and build this device!) :(

Happy to pay $200 for it!

One of those things that you want the first run upgradeable (and updates freely availible) for future waves if enlightenment :).

Edited by CATKICKER
One of those things that you want the first run upgradeable (and updates freely availible) for future waves if enlightenment :).

am i the only one that has any idea what you were saying here? :(

Put me down for one, sounds great. Probably a silly question, but I'm assuming that you won't be able to see variable cam timing etc for the 34, or any of the extras that the neo engine has?

the device is generic to be able to be used on all nissans, so even if specific stuff for the neo's existed (not aware of anything) then it wouldnt be used for non-neo owners. theres always room to move things around at a later date, but at this stage ill be focusing on the generic stuff applicable to all nissans.

btw, if its not clear, this is whats on the display (see pic on page 1):

line 1: speed, rpm, battery voltage, economy, injector duty cycle, ignition timing

line 2: AAC %, o2 sensor, coolant temp, AFM, TPS

pretty much said it already, but here's a rough update:

1) received 12 prototype boards. if no defects/errors in boards, then the final boards will be the same as these. already have a few minor perfections, nothing that effects the function or appearance (only ease of construction)

2) i can make 12 devices minus their enclosures (think i have all parts), probably this weekend. i may sell around 8 of these to those interested (can supply enclosure then when they are available). of course assuming the boards ive got have no errors or anything

3) one of these devices will be sent to to enclosure makers for them to begin making enclosures in about a week (regardless of whether theres any error in the boards, they dont need them working, just need them for sizing considerations). then in between 28-61 working days (6-10 weeks) the enclosures will be finished, and by then id have made a fair few devices ready for this. so an optimistic target may be end of june for mainstream ones to be ready. may be a slight increase to this time if they need to send me enclosure to verify its ok etc.

prices are still looking to be around $200 max (including assembly/testing, enclosure, delivery), i will be trying my best to make these as affordable as possible, so i hope i can keep end price under this, but a few things have been out of my control (customs dutys, normal pcb manufacturers being unavailable). I of course need to make sure im not losing money too...

Edited by NewKleer

Couple more pics, this time of a built display minus enclosure of course. You can see the switch on the top pic sticking out, this switches between consult lcd and consult interface. 3 buttons will be on final device to left of these, sticking out similarly. pics taken without flash to show backlight

protolcd1s.jpg

protolcd2s.jpg

Edited by NewKleer
  • 3 weeks later...

just an update to let people know that uni/work for me will be really busy till july 1, so probably wont get much done by then. however the enclosures are still the thing thats holding things up - so it might be the case that i dont have to actually do anything till then myself anyway.

  • 1 month later...

prototype enclosure was made, see pics here. need to make a few minor corrections to it, which ive sent thru, and manuafacturing of first lot of enclosures will be before end of july. also getting final pcb's manufactured soon (made some changes to pcb today), then will need to order a few parts, then ready to make them.

hey

I really like what your doing here.

I bought one of impakts diagnostic tools a fair while ago and i love it....

Some of the features that his has that i think would make yours better would be

- Add a peak hold funtion (like on his). This makes things so much easier... especially for duty cycle, rpm etc.

- work your TPS sensor out. on impakts tool it seems to know 0 - 100 percent throttle position on every car i've plugged it into.

Features that would make yours far more superiour...

- Reading and clearing of fault codes, Ecu reset. Huge thumbs up.

- 0 - 100kph, 0 - 200kph times etc... also 0-200 & 0-400m times?

- upgradeable. enough said.

I really like yours so far... kind of prefer his screen however.... if his was in an ever so slightly smaller case, it would fit into the ash tray holder.... yours just looks a little strange being so long and only 2 lines...

I hope those comments have helped you :thumbsup:

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...