Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Also, go to the police with the details and have the prick charged for leaving the scene of an accident without giving details.

and yeah, get insurance champ (trust me, it'll be worth it... even if you have to borrow money from the banks / family to do it - look at my signature and you'll see why :rant:)

First report it to the police, then send a letter of demand to the driver/owner with a copy of the quote and give them 7 days to pay .

If you dont hear from them a second letter and finaly if you still dont hear go to your local court and send them a summons for the repair bill + the summons cost and delivery .

Once they receive that they usualy pay , if they dont you go to court and take an order . Its a long process if they want to play hard but in the end you will get all your money and costs , as long as you can prove they were at fault ( not hard as you have a witness ).

Of course if you had comprehensive insurance it would be much easier but then again not in your case because the damage would be less than your exces( more than likely ) and in this case in most policies you are on your own !!

If i was you i would get a 3rd party policy as a very minimum just in case and most of them have a small cover( usualy 3-5 k) for your car in case of theft or damage caused by an uninsured driver ( like you ) as long as its not your fault .

Even with comprehensive insurance, you make what's called a "Not at fault claim" and then your insurance company takes over and srts everything out.

When people have hit me, the very first thing I do is call my insurance company and tell them the situtation and they take it over and all you have to do is get your car fixed.

Normally, the other persons insurance party will contact you and organise things, but if they f**k about, at least you have the backing of your insurance company who will do what they do best, which is fix cars and collect money.

I had a guy run up my arse a couple of years ago, and he idn't have insurance. He said "No worried man, just give me the bill and I'll pay it, I've got the money" but I'll be f**ked if I'm gonna chase someone up for the cash. I told my insurance company and they chased him for the money and I never heard another thing about it.

BASS OUT

It has been mentioned above, but REPORT IT TO THE POLICE!!!!!!!!!!!

That would be the first place id go if this was my GTR

The guy is obviously a d!ckhead - let him have it, overcharge on the quote, make sure the police go after him, drag him through the courts

My 2 cents

Did the truck driver know he hit you? That doesnt look a lot of damage from a truck so chances are he wouldnt have even felt it.

Did any of the witnesses say they saw him looking sheepish or at least guilty prior to driving away?

Fully agree to go after every cent to get this repaired and also informing the police. Glad you now have insurance sorted but all these comments about throwing the book and capital punishment from other posters are a bit far fetched IF he didnt even know.

I find it insane that its not compulsory to have 3rd party fire and theft insurance at the very least.

I had someone do a similar thing reversed into my car and did a runner. I never found out who it was though and just paid for it myself. No point doing an insurance claim for $700.

Sorry to hear about your car... I honestly hope that you have a positive result from your attempts to get things set right!

On the point of insurance, I think that 3rd party property insurance should become a compulsory part of owning a vehicle. The number of people that get around with no insurance other than the 3rd party *injury* that their car licence provides really annoys the shit out of me. Its simply a case of being irresponsible. With a credit card, I've insured a car over the phone in 15 minutes, so lack of time is no excuse.

A number of my friends have been the victims of others with no 3rd party property insurance, who have been forced to foot the bill for repairs to their own vehicles, simply because they can't afford to be without their car for the period of time that it takes to chase up the person at fault. One of my mates involved in such an accident had his 3-4 month old Lancer written off by some stupid ignorant insurance-less F***er in a BMW who ran a red light. She then had the gall to claim against my friend's insurance for whiplash. Thats the least of her worries, i'm sure. The accident managed to take out My friends car, her car, as well as a traffic light pole. My friend had full cover, it cost him his no-claim bonus (significant), his excess, and alot of inconveniance. He never managed to recover anything out of the other driver, mainly because he couldn't afford (time/money) to drag it through court.

Anyone without 3rd party property insurance is asking to have their life screwed up. All it takes is a relatively small mistake on the road to cause an accident resulting in a crash into another car or a building and you could be forced to sell your house, your car, and any other assets to pay for the damage you cause. Don't forget that $10,000-30,000 loan for your own car that you just wrote off in the process!

Apart from that, 3rd party insurance is cheap. I'm 22, and my 3rd party insurance renewal on my 94 EF Falcon just arrived in the mail yesterday. $160 for 12 months. Even on a GT-R, if you have a good relationship with your insurance company, I'm sure you'll be able to get 3rd party insurance for less than $500 a year. I've been quoted by Western QBE, $1500/yr for full cover on my r32 GT-R, with a $300 excess. Only reason they insured me is because I've been with them since I had my first car. I'm in Perth, and Garage my GT-R in an 'insurance safe' suburb, so figures may vary state to state and suburb to suburb, but in the end I consider insurance to be a must!

I don't mean to rant, offend, or hijack this thread, but I guess if my post urges even one uninsured person it to get the minimal insurance any responsible road user would get, its been worth my time and any offence caused.

Cheers!

-Shaun

</rant>

i park my car furthest away as possible from others, yet i find it funny how i still attract cars. i mean, theres 20 effin free carpark spaces, why must you park next to me ?? i wanted to be a loner for a reason.

some ppl....

I do that too, and it annoys me because i swear people pick out my car to park next to because its like they think that my car will get targeted before theirs...

I was parked out front of my mates place just before x mas, and his f*kn neighbour across the road reversed into my car....see below :mellow:

i park my car furthest away as possible from others, yet i find it funny how i still attract cars. i mean, theres 20 effin free carpark spaces, why must you park next to me ?? i wanted to be a loner for a reason.

some ppl....

I do that too, and it annoys me because i swear people pick out my car to park next to because its like they think that my car will get targeted before theirs...

I was parked out front of my mates place just before x mas, and his f*kn neighbour across the road reversed into my car....see below :mellow:

post-3692-1137885229.jpg

Damn man, I saw the damage last night. Hope you get it fixed up asap. Was nice cruising with u last night. Pity about the blinker :mellow:

yeah that was weird lol when we got to stanwell no blinker hehe ... must have been some of those harsh bumps with my stiff suspension ...

Geez, I would be crying!

G'luck having it fixed and back on the road.

PS. I agree with everyone on insurance. Paying good money for full comp is worth every bean. In a no-fault accident pass everything onto the insurance comp, no excess paid by you, and they sort everything out. No stress for you! If you can't afford full comp, then look at buying a car that you can afford to insure full comp.

I think we should have a annual "bash people without insurance day". W e can start it at cronulla. Pencil pushing IT guys not invitited as they cant perform keystrokes(wank strokes) after they get bashed. hahahahah. No serious but gotta have insurance. To many bad drivers on the road. Not me however, im perfect

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...