Some Pics Of My Work In Progress.

[Swiper the Fox]

Silverwater Automotive will be tuning the car. I was sold on the Autronic SM4 when i saw my friends 1100Kw twin turbo V8 idle and drive like a road car.

The head has just been reconditioned without any porting etc. I figured that the tyres will fry without head work anyway! Ill see what the result is with standard cams and adjustable cam gears for the moment. Things will change in the future i suppose; such is the nature of the beast.

Shaun.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks for the pics Shaun...i now have a new desktop background

[PHaT MR30]

Hey Shaun, nice work, i was always curious what you were doing when i bought those injectors off you... ps had them cleaned and flowed and they were spot on.

Can you tell me where you got that Orange heat wrap stuff from? i need a few metres of it

[pnblight]

Silverwater Automotive will be tuning the car. I was sold on the Autronic SM4 when i saw my friends 1100Kw twin turbo V8 idle and drive like a road car.

The head has just been reconditioned without any porting etc. I figured that the tyres will fry without head work anyway! Ill see what the result is with standard cams and adjustable cam gears for the moment. Things will change in the future i suppose; such is the nature of the beast.

Shaun.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

i think you'll find reasonable success with std cams but looking at the turbo size and ecu i think you won't be happy with the results until you fit some cams as normally i haven't seen much over mid to low 400's rwhp with std cams and i would have thought you would be aiming a bit higher than that? But ha best of luck and keep us all informed as it great to people trying different style combos.

pete

[jaik]

Id just like to comment on your sheilding that you have over the PS pump and over the manifold... I think it looks tops! I also think the cover over the manifold will do a shitload for keeping engine bay temps down. Looks the goods man... very nicely done!

JK

[Shaun]

Hey Shaun, nice work, i was always curious what you were doing when i bought those injectors off you... ps had them cleaned and flowed and they were spot on.

Can you tell me where you got that Orange heat wrap stuff from? i need a few metres of it

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You can get the orange 'Flame Guard' from Earls in Silverwater. When you see it, its obviously a sh1t load better than other stuff around; but for $50/m it would want to be!

Im not too worried about the cams at the moment. Theyre an easy fix later on, but yeah, im aiming for about 330ishrwkw. To be honest, i really dont care as the tyres will spin anyway. I just hope its nice to drive.

Paul, ive decided to take your advice and use teflon lined braided hose from the surge tank in the boot. I really dont want that fuel smell, and it'll only cost $100 more. Earls must love me at the moment!

I made all the heat shielding out of stainless. I spend alot of time on the shield above the exhaust manifold because i really want the package to be thermally efficient; hence all the ceramic coating and exhaust wrap. There's alot of surface area to radiate heat there! I sandwiched some woven heat guard in between the double layer manifold heat shield too; its really intricate and took for ever. Luckily ive got access to some benders etc at my dads high school!

Ill keep you guys posted and put up some more detailed pics when im done in a few months. Im stoked to see some interest about my car!

[sidewazegtst]

WOW, holy chrome-age batman! I needed my sun glasses. B)

Only kidding man, I think it looks fuzin sweet. You did a hell of a lot of work there and I'm sure the end result will surpass even what you've thought up till this point. The work is so professional and done properly. I really can't say enough, honestly.

Now as for your turbo being close to the shock tower, there's 2 options.

1. Bang in the tower for more clearence. - I'm pretty sure based on the work to the engine bay, paint and what not that your not gona do this. :lol:

2. Either buy or fabricate your own engine dampner. - Believe it or not I used a trunk shock from a wrecked 240 hatch and it worked PERFECTLY. The motor only moved a couple of millimeter's and that was while using stock OE engine mounts. Solid bars do work but it puts a lot more stress on the mounts and does'nt really allow ANY movement which is'nt always good. When there's absolutely no give, thats usually when things break. Sometimes stiffer is'nt always better and I think it applys in your case. You did so much nice work that I'd hate to see you have any problems.

Anyway just a thought for ya and for sure keep those pic's coming. I will eventually do a 26 in to my R32 GTS once I've finished having fun with the 20.

(DAM YOU, YOU BEAT ME TO IT!!!!!! )

[Shaun]

Hey man, thanks for the tips. I think ill definately get an engine damper before i start leaning on it.

There's no chrome in those pics! Its all polished! There's about 200 hours of polishing on an 8 inch super cheap bench polisher. I bought the engine with terrible white powder coat on the cam covers, so i had to get it off!

Shaun.

[druzilla32]

how did you get it all polished so well?

surley you didnt sit there for 3 months polishing it all with sand paper?

[PHATR32]

i had trouble cleaning the paint off with stripper! how did you polish the cracks and small gaps etc??

[Shaun]

I made the mistake of getting some paint stripping place to get the powder coat off because the alloy surface ended up really rough. But i just used a medium 3M sanding wheel (actually, i went thru about 10) on my power drill to get rid of the rough stuff. Then i used a fine wheel, then i hit it with cutting compound on a stitched buffing wheel on an 8 inch bench polisher, then i used finer compound on a loose leaf buffing wheel. Finally, i protect the surface with some autosol super duper fine sh1t thats gotta be ordered from Germany. I get in the cracks by hand or with a dremel. Thats the cast alloy cam covers etc; the stainless is another story! That stuff is really difficult because it work hardens if you heat it up too much and it becomes really difficult to polish.

Polishing is addictive! Once you polish one thing, youve gotta polish the next because it sticks out like dogs nuts! I even replaced nuts, bolts and washers with stainless items that i polished. Its stupid.

Edited January 25, 2006 by Shaun

[Zenith]

Quick question, where did you get that engine decal on the spark plug cover from?, Engine looks good, nice work.

[CruiseLiner]

polishing is fun, and like u said its addictive haha, makes everything not polished look dull in comparision

i did my old vl engine bay and every single nut and bolt also, but god damn is was worth it in the end, 99% of engine bays i see with big dollar engines look like poxy dirty shittas and i cant stand dirty engine bays.

looks better than my stagea bay, but the stagea bay will be better one day

Edited January 29, 2006 by CruiseLiner

[Shaun]

Quick question, where did you get that engine decal on the spark plug cover from?, Engine looks good, nice work.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I got the decal with the engine. Ive seen them on Nengan or Greenline for $120 + postage! I'd actually rather the standard one (off an R34 preferably), as i dont have any HKS gear at all. Anyone wanna swap theirs?

Cruiseliner, your VL engine bay looks great. Only people who polish realise how much time and effort it takes. How hard is it polishing stainless steel washers!!

Shaun.

[sidewazegtst]

Hey Shaun I just have a couple of questions for ya that's actually regarding the swap and not your swell polishing job :lol:

1. Outside of needing the motor, tranny (or RB25 tranny), drive shaft, ecu and wire harness was there anything else required to make it fit or was it a direct drop in?

I'm asking b/c as I stated before I am really considering doing this swap in the near future.

Thanks a lot and again, VERY SWEET SWAP!

Cheers B)

[N1GTR]

Love the polished cover