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1991 Nissan 180sx 5 Speed Manual

120,000 kms on the clock.

ENGINE:

Motor was rebuilt about 12,000kms ago

IHI High Flowed Dual Ball Bearing Turbo with HKS Actuator

Nismo 550cc Injectors

Z32 Air Flow Meter

Blitz Front Mount Intercooler

(The FMIC piping is set up to run two blow off valves at the same time. These will come with the car but are not on the car at the moment. Both bovs are Turbo XS items, one is atmospheric venting and the other is a plump back)

Remapped ECU by Nerve

HKS 1.2mm Metal Head Gasket

Reground Cams

Rocker Arm Stopper Kit

Blitz Oil Cooler

GTR Fuel Pump

GFB Boost COntroller

GFB Alloy Crank Pulley

Yashio Factory Raditor

Apexi Pod Filter

HKS Low Mount Manifold

Full 3inch Mandrel Bent Exhaust System

HKS Dump Pipe

Custom Front Pipe

Twin Jun B.L. Cannons with Drifted Out Tips

EXTERIOR:

Full Respray In Cranberry Red with Purple/Wine Pearl. (There is a bit of gold flake in there as well)

Roof and Bonnet have been sparyed in black with the same pearl.

GP Sports Front Bar

Nismo Side Skirts

Vertex Rear Bar (Damaged)

Ganadore Mirrors

30mm Nismo Flared Metal Front Guards

30mm Blister Fibreglass Widebody rear quarters.

The body line, boot holes, antenna hole, rear wiper hole and rear windscreen jet hole have all been shaved

Vented Fibreglass Bonnet with Bonnet Pins.

Clear VT Indicators

Also I have a pair of Type X Lights that i'll throw in (These are not on the car at the moment).

INTERIOR:

Momo 330mm Steering Wheel

Drift Handbrake Button

HKS Boost Gauge with A-Pillar Mount

Omori Water Temp Gauge

Glove Box retrimmed in Red

Driver's Leg Pads

Tomei Short Shifter

Pivot Sleepy Eye Controller

Central20 280kph Speedo

Fire Extinguisher Mounted In Passenger Footwell

Metal Gear Knob

Turbo Timer

Immobilizer

Push Button Start

Kenwood Double Din Head Unit

Carrozzeria 6.5inch 2-way Splits discreetly mounted in doors

Pioneer 4x6inch 2-way Splits in the rear

SUSPENSION/DRIVELINE

Heavy Duty Kevlar Clutch

Cusco Mechanical 2-Way 4:3:1 LSD

GTR 5 Stud & Brake Conversion (4 Pot Front, 2 Pot Rear)

GTR Brake Master Cylinder (No ABS)

Power Enterprise Ferrodo Racing Pads (Front)

EBC Pads (Rear)

Braided Brake Lines

Whiteline Swaybars Front and Rear

Tein Castor Rods

Adjustable Rear Upper Arms

Adjustable Rear Toe Arms

S14 Steering Rack

S14 Lower Front Arms

HKS Hiper D Coil Overs in the Front with HKS Camber Tops

JIC Coilovers in the Rear

Drift Pineapples

Tomei 3-Point Front Strut Brace

Cusco Rear Strut Brace

Mods wise I think that's about it but I may have forgotten a few things.

The car is making just under 190rwkw. This is due to the ridiculously pathetic excuse for a fuel map that Nerve came up with. Nigel from Ice Performance is confident that with a Power FC and a new map the car could make around the 210-215rwkw mark. If you were really keen you could even just get Dr Drift to re-map the current ECU ($300-$400 I think).

Reason for Sale: The car is quite conspicuous and consequently attracts a lot of cop attention which in turn leads to defects. I am in the midst of clearing one now and I just don't have the energy/time/money to keep dealing with them.

Reg: Yes, Until August 2006

RWC: Negotiable

Other things to note: The 4th gear syncro is gone

Price: $19,750 neg. or willing to do a swap. Will CONSIDER any car.

The car is great fun to drive and I will be very sad to see it go.

Also, I have a whole heap of spare parts that will be sold with the car.

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    • Ok sounds good. Hopefully if I end up changing it to the nismo bushes I don't get that veering issue. I don't think there's a point in lubing up these bushes again. Weird that it it makes just as much noise with all the grease inside it versus without grease prior to removal. Bizarre.
    • Yeah, you don't need camber bushes on stock arms to make a car drive straight unless it's got another problem. F'rigsample, slide the thing into a kerb, bend the front subframe mounts a little....subframe is now twisted, shifted or otherwise in the wrong spot...and you need to do funky stuff with the wheel alignment to get it to drive straight. Maybe a little more caster on one side, or a little more camber. FWIW, I can have my camber off side to side by a half a degree or more, and either way, so more one side, or more on the other, and the car doesn't really want to pull to one side. It will definitely ride road camber differently, and want to track uphill (ie, towards the centreline when on the LHS of a normal crowned piece of road, like it should) or want to roll downhill (which it really shouldn't). But on fairly flat road surfaces, like the middle of a 3 or 4 lane motorway, a half a degree either way doesn't make a lot of difference. I sometimes do quite a few miles with my wheel alignment messed up, because I don't always get a chance to set it right again after a serious dismantling, before I have to drive it to work again. Like, a whole week's worth of daily shuffle.
    • To clarify, I meant nismo bushes, not control arms (don't even think that's a thing for my car). So the suspension specialist said, if I buy those nismo bushes which are perfectly centered it will cause my car to veer in one direction. Whereas he said the current offset bushes that I have were put in on purpose to fix that issue. This will be my third wheel alignment if I put these bushes in lol. My chassis is straight, all my rails are clean.
    • OK, well, in that case, the suspension specialist is either a moron, or you aren't understanding what he was trying to tell you. Nismo arms are not really different than stock arms. Both are fixed geometry. I don't know if the Nismo ones are a little shorter than the stockers (or perhaps even a little longer) or the same length, but....if you swap from stock to Nismo, whatever happens to one side will happen to the other side. It will not cause it to steer left or right. That is unless you have adjustable bushes in your stockers, and they happen to be adjusted to dial out some bent chassis shenanigans. But, if that were the case, you'd just put adjustables in the Nismo arms anyway, because Nismo arms are essentially just expensive stock arms. And doing a wheel alignment is just a weekly thing in my world. I have had the suspension apart so many times this year that I've lost count and just about worn out a torque wrench. I'm out in the shed right now cutting up some alloy section and making bases for my new stringline setup. Got to make new swivel plates next, then I'm good to do toe properly, as well as camber and bump steer.
    • Yeah, nah. Not a thing. The gasket between the top of the plenum and the runners is far more likely to blow out when it gets old, and not really at ~14 psi. These things have been run to double that for 30 years without that being a common thing.
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