Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Our S1 seems to have 3 levels of window colour;

1. The front windscren is clear, although is does have some heat rejection.

2. The front doors and rear screen are slightly tinted.

3. The rear doors and rear sides are heavily tinted.

I am going to cut that down to 2 levels by getting the front doors and rear screen tinted to match the rear doors and rear sides.  Based on experience with other cars, even when that is done, the front doors will still appear lighter tint than the rears due to the extra light coming in throught the untinted front screen.  This "apparent" difference seems to have been enough to avoid "issues" in the past.

:P cheers :)

thats exactly my plan also, as even if cops said remove the front tint it aint much to get it done again (unlike having to do all the car like a commodore, etc would have to).

G'day, The day we picked our stagea up from the gold coast we had the front door windows tinted at Tint.a.car, Wurtulla, on sunshine coast. We had them use 'Formula 1', the best UV but second darkest tint. I believe the next darker tint was still legal.

Skidkid

Just wondering why you chose the Formula 1 tint instead of the darkest tint? I have had Formula 1 on my last 3 cars and it seems okay but not very dark

Cheers, Al

Skidkid

Just wondering why you chose the Formula 1 tint instead of the darkest tint?  I have had Formula 1 on my last 3 cars and it seems okay but not very dark

Cheers, Al

hey AL is your stagea red? do u happen to work at route 66 in beldon as i spotted one parked out the front yesterday?

cheers

Brad

skidkid - Fair enough and probably the one I will get again

Brad, nah mine is silver Series II but interesting to see a red one around here, will have to keep an eye out for it. Could be the one they had at Auto Wholesale when I was getting mine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right, its been a while for updating this car, but I made some small but important progress today. In the end I bought an Ecutek dongle from the Australian distributor Tunehouse (for local hardware support) but have gone with a remote tune from Racebox in the US (because they have done millions of these, and I could not find any tuner where I could access the tune anyway as they are all password locked). The App is reasonably easy to work with, but the PC software reminds me of Haltech's ECU Manager that you need to use with the Plat Pro ECUs, it is a nightmare.  Anyway, I sent the details over, got back a tune file and a request for data logs. I finally got a chance to access a private test track today as they want redline logs in 3rd and 4th, and have sent them back for the first round of reviews. The main difference in the tune is going from 1.0 (stock) to 1.3 bar (19psi), although I'm sure is a lot of other stuff in the background. Keeping in mind this is a dead stock car with 125,000klm, this is what the App's performance test claimed: Before After Interesting to note that both 400m tests had the same terminal speed (158klm/h) but different ETs. And no, the speed limiter seems to be higher than that at 186kl/h. Summary of the key logged parameters for the 3rd and 4th gear runs were: Those little turbos were certainly whizzing at 200,000rpm+.  Also I'm really not that excited about oil pressure 55psi at redline so I think I'll go thicker than 5w30 (nissan recommend 0w20....) and see if that improves it. Other than that (and the big boost spike....) everything looks good as a start to me.
    • Just one more post to show the final result and the original "janky" solution for a laugh. Everything feels really tight and no wobbling at all, very pleased 🙂
    • After drying a few days, time to put her back together 
    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
×
×
  • Create New...