Wtb: Gtr Aac-iacv Valve

[SteveL]

After a GTR AAC-IACV valve - it's the device bolted to the plenum that controls idle. I have confirmed in FAST that R32/R33/R34 all use the same part number. Must be in excellent working condition and prefer one from a late model (ie R34), but that's probably asking a lot

Also interested in an R34 CAS (all R34's use the same CAS).

PM or e-mail at:

[email protected]

TIA

[SteveL]

Someone must have these...

[femno]

Dude, u can use one from any of the RBs...i used one off a RB20DE and it works fine. Requires a little bit of fiddling around to get it to work, ull need to swap over your bent pipe, and plug up the hole where a solonoid might be, but you can tell the differences by just comparing them. Just as long as u have your old one ull be right. GTR ones are impossible to find in good nik.

[ylwgtr2]

there is two under there.....one of them is an heater element thats got something to do with the idle and the other one with the idle screw on it.....which one are you after steve?you can dissect the one with the airscrew by die grinding out the epoxy with a flat bottom die grinding bit and unscrew the idel tesioner pull out the spring and clean all the shite out.....the spring is usually under tensioned causing the infamous high idle...so doing this allows you to tension it up more....you can also throw 12v across the solenoid to make sure it works

[SteveL]

Dude, u can use one from any of the RBs...i used one off a RB20DE and it works fine. Requires a little bit of fiddling around to get it to work, ull need to swap over your bent pipe, and plug up the hole where a solonoid might be, but you can tell the differences by just comparing them. Just as long as u have your old one ull be right. GTR ones are impossible to find in good nik.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Well I have thought about doing that, and I actually have an RB25DE IACV from a late Stagea which I could use, but I was sort of hoping to get an R34 one (long shot, for sure). Having successfully adapted an RB30 IACV to a VG30DET manifold, it's something I know I could do.......let's just say I'm getting lazy.

Nissan's price for a new one is insane, AFAIC

[SteveL]

there is two under there.....one of them is an heater element thats got something to do with the idle and the other one with the idle screw on it.....which one are you after steve?you can dissect the one with the airscrew by die grinding out the epoxy with a flat bottom die grinding bit and unscrew the idel tesioner pull out the spring and clean all the shite out.....the spring is usually under tensioned causing the infamous high idle...so doing this allows you to tension it up more....you can also throw 12v across the solenoid to make sure it works

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Not sure about the heater element thing, haven't seen anything like that on mine, just the IACV attached to the sub-plenum. I've disassembled the IACV completely and cleaned it, including removing the epoxy seal on the brass spring screw, etc. It's as clean as when it was new. I've also checked the solenoid using multimeter, etc and it's fine, plus I've tested it using the DataScan software connected via the diagnostic connector under the dash (ie played around with the idle by manually controlling the IACV).

My problem is that the idle is still slightly high (1050rpm) and there's no adjustment left on the IACV manual adjust screw to take it lower. Ignition timing is spot on. I've gone to extent of replacing all the hoses (and I do mean ALL) under the manifold, plus all the manifold gaskets and o-rings on the balance tube. Also it's not the air reg as I've tested it and it works fine plus it looks brand new. I've also checked things like the BOV vac connection; brake/clutch master vac connections; MAP sensor hoses; PCV etc, etc.

At the end, with alll I've done, I'm left with the possibility that the IACV is simply worn out and not sealing correctly internally - but to me it looked fine when I took it apart. I'm hesitant to by a s/hand one, but as I said, I'm running out of options.

[femno]

did you ever touch the throttle plate stop screws? or has it happened suddenly??

[ylwgtr2]

steve.....try checking the element.....its located right under the first part of the inlet manifold......its a real turd to get to...you can actually dismantle that unit aswell...this unit can be replaced with the RB30 unit.....just the plug is diffrent.....you file off the small tooth on the unit itself as its in the centre and not staggered like the GTR one.....they should be closed when cold.....if you hold it up in the light and you can see daylight through it then its shagged

[SteveL]

steve.....try checking the element.....its located right under the first part of the inlet manifold......its a real turd to get to...you can actually dismantle that unit aswell...this unit can be replaced with the RB30 unit.....just the plug is diffrent.....you file off the small tooth on the unit itself as its in the centre and not staggered like the GTR one.....they should be closed when cold.....if you hold it up in the light and you can see daylight through it then its shagged

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I suspect your thinking of the air reg (bolted under the manifold up close to the head ??) and that checks out fine.....closes up completely with time/temp.

femno: nothing's been touched with the plate screws and I had the TB's off when I replaced all the gaskets. I'm confident there's no problem in that area. I've also checked the throttle actuator adjustment and no problems there as well.