Replacement Turbo/oils Of Choice - Quick Qs

[decoyslikecurves]

Hey there, just bought a nissan laurel, great car - but has blown turbo seals, hence Im just going to replace the turbo.

Coming from an ae86, this will be my first turbo - is there anything I should know before I do it (the way I figure it is to drain motor oil, take off heat sheild thing, unbolt turbo and oil lines etc, bolt new one on and then assemble everything again.)

Also, I have a choice of either a VG30 turbo (the ceramic ones), a stock rb20det turbo and also an rb25det turbo. Which should I get? I wouldn't really like to modify anything - do the vg30det and rb25det turbos bolt straight in without any hassles?

One last Question - What oil are you fellas running in your rb20dets? I was thinking penrite synthetic stuff for turbo cars but any suggestions would be fantastic.

Thanks in advance,

Gav

[S13Deviat]

Mate from my noobish knowledge is would stay clear of the VG30 turbo as is a bit laggy. Go the RB25 turbo! One of the best 'bang for buck' upgrades!!

Replcaing a turbo is not as easy as it seems....some 'experienced' DIY garage grease monkeys can do it in about 3 hrs from start to finish.

I would allow a full Sunday, slab of beer and a mate for moral support!

As for oil's....hhmm i think its called Motoil 5000....something like that!

Good Luck!!!!

Ando

P.S. Just checked...was Motul 4100 or 8100 for the oil.....good stuff!!

Edited January 23, 2006 by R33Deviat

[cefiro]

This is what I have heard, I think the best turbo is the rb25 by far, from memory either the series 1 or 2 has a steel exhaust wheel which is better, I am not 100% if it bolts straight onto the existing exhaust. Prob its bets to do a search into the the conversion of the rb25 turbo onto the rb20. See about the feeder lines as well.

As for oil I always stick with either mobil 1 or shell ultra synthetic, change it every 5000km.

i sure you will get some more useful info from other people than me though

[Hella Flush]

haha dont ask about oils

repco oil and filter yesterday purchased by 1400r and myself... (he did the purchasing i just picked which oil with a max 30 buck spending limit)

only just to get my car started and to the shop... shit better be half decent for 10mins of driving

[D-limo]

I thought rb25 turbo only came in ceramic wheel form? Make sure you get the outlet elbow.

Where ye hale from?

[decoyslikecurves]

Im actually from the Sunshine Coast, bout 40 mins from Brisbane.

Just organising turbos and stuff now, go to pick up the car on a trailer tomorrow.

Cant wait

I think theres a few cefiros down here, and I have seen or so other laurels. As for the oil, i think Im going to go with Mobil synthetic. Just hope I can actually change over the turbo without any stupid troubles haha...

We'll see.

[cefiro]

you picking up the car from the boat???

if you are then you should also consider doing the fuel filter, and def the oil filter everytime you change the oil.

have you tried doin a search as i am pretty sure your going to need the dump pipe as well as drift limo sayed

[sky80]

MOTUL all the way baby

[D-limo]

Im actually from the Sunshine Coast, bout 40 mins from Brisbane.

Just organising turbos and stuff now, go to pick up the car on a trailer tomorrow.

Cant wait 

I think theres a few cefiros down here, and I have seen or so other laurels.  As for the oil, i think Im going to go with Mobil synthetic. Just hope I can actually change over the turbo without any stupid troubles haha...

We'll see.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I'm out near Glasshouse mnts B) There's 3 Ceffy's I know of and 4 laurels now including mine and urs.. I take it's heading for the dori?

Got any pics?

[CEF33Y]

Go for the rb25 turbs, bolts straight up, just make sure you get the elbow coming off the compressor.

Before you undo any bolts soak them in wd 40 for bout 20 mins, helps them come out without snapping

[decoyslikecurves]

Okay I got me just a stock rb20 turbo, supposably has next to no shaft play - coming from an 86 even a stockish turbo with a little more boost feels like heaps of power to me! Im planning to run about 10psi. The car has a blitz dual solenoid boost controller and my god it looks complicated tuning it, but i'll have a go anyway.

No pics yet but Im sure I'll have some soon.

Yeah its a little bit for drift and also a daily driver.

I think theres a few ceffys on the sunny coast now, I know 2 guys that have them well. Laurels I haven't seen though - maybe 3-4 tops. I'll be leaving in 1.5 hours to pick it up - cant wait. I'l post up later when I get it.

[S13Deviat]

Decoy - Mate i think u will find that the stock Ceffie RB20 w/turbz runs about 10-12psi anyways. Never thought so but since i had the boost guage installed, sure enuff she huffs and puffs @ about 11psi.

My 2c

Ando

[D-limo]

Nah stock rb20det only run about 6-7 psi I'm pretty sure. Have read somewhere that its either all rb20det auto's or all rb20det Ceffy/Laurels are de-tuned by 0.5 psi. The gains you have will be coming from a full 3 inch exhasut and aftermarket filter.

Gavin yeah I know 2 Ceffy owners well too.. One's just had the running gear replaced from a wrecked r32.. and the other is just insane Probably the most modified Ceff in Aus. Also know a guy with a Laurel running a VQ30 with to4 that he's currently setting up for drift..

Hope you get it home with no hickups Keen on seeing the pics too

[funkymonkey]

I'd be getting a ball bearing VG30DETT turbo as a replacement for the RB20DET turbo, its by far the easiest to swap with minimal mods.

Ceramic = ghey, avoid at all costs.

[decoyslikecurves]

Yeah its alright - just looking to replace it for now - only thing is I have run into a bit of a snag. inbetween the exhaust and inlet housings on the turbo, the water inlet or outlet or something banjo bolt is too small for the r32 turbo water inlet/outlet hole. Like maybe about 2 mm too small.

I figure this is the difference between the r32 turbo and the laurel turbo, but is there any way that I can fix this - how do I overcome it?

Any Ideas? please? haha

Yeah I know charles with the vg30 laurel and will with the silver cefiro. nice guys.

Anyway I have to fix this turbo snag - can someone suggest something?

Cheers - gav

[BasketCase]

you'll need the banjo bolt from an r32 turbo - If I have read you problem right.

I replaced my RB25 turbo, well got it highflowed and rebuilt with a GT28 bb centre and I needed to find a new oil feed banjo bolt, I ended up getting one machined up for me, cost $4.

The Horizontal banjos are your coolant In --- Out, and the top is your oil in, and on the bvottom is the oil dump pipe.

If your going to replace the turbo at home, make sure when everything is in you at least test the oil flow, if the oil don't flow your engine is gonna f**k out in record time.

Disconnect the Ignigter box, unplug the oil dump pipe on the turbo and then turn the key for a couple of turns to crank the engine, as long as the ignition is disconnected the car won't start - and you don't want it to.

If a bit of oil comes out of the dump pipe its flowing, plug it all back in for a careful drive up the road.

I use the motul in my ceffy Used to always use 8100, but find the 4100 turbolight starts better.

Goodluck!

PS

Ceramic = ghey, avoid at all costs.

true, over boost ceramic and they shatter and you get the fun job of digging ceramic turbine blades from your engines innards

Edited January 25, 2006 by BasketCase

[decoyslikecurves]

Wow, thanks heaps, this is all such good information.

Yeah the banjo bolt is the one thats sitting horizontal and on the engine side - either a water inlet or outlet. So I should get a bolt machined hey? What about the waterline eye that it goes through? do i ahve to tought that or should it be able to take a bigger bolt.

Thanks for the tip ont he oil pressure too - that sounds like a big lifesaver ahah.

On another note - one of my windows doesn't work - The guy I bought it off thinks its a solenoid. Does anyone know where I can get a solenoid for it from?

Cheers once again

[someonestolecc]

On oils I used 8100 religiously, last change I used elf excellium, $10 cheaper and seems the same.

[S13Deviat]

Windows not working in Cefiro's more common that Tom (someonestolecc) standing at 'the wall' in the King X...

I have posted up a thread in this section somewhere of me doing this exact fix with piccies showing what to do with the issue / replacing the soleniod. Pretty easy job....just check with local wreckers / suppliers for a solenoid.

Ando

Ando

[D-limo]

Any luck yet?... Where are these pics

Yeah Charlie said he was selling the Soarer to fund the laurel. Will be making stupid amounts of power when it's finished

Haha forgot about Will.. Thats one more. The guy I meant is Shaune and he owns this