Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

*EDIT, mod please change topic title to SAFC2 because the double caps II's won't cap : )*

Hey Just wondering what kind of knock readings people get with their SAFCII?

My max ping is generally around 20 when idle, & usually sits around 0 - 3 when driving after a bit. This is when driving on stock 7psi boost.

When I bump it to 12psi & check the highest recorded knock, it shoots up to around 120 - 160 after little thrashing at 12 pound, I never actually catch the knock displaying these higher figures. I had the car dyno tuned for 12 pound so the A/F ratio’s should all be correct, the dyno sheet says so (12:1), When actually boosting 12psi at 7000rpm the knock reading is still 0 like it normally is high up in the revs so I'm not worrying.

Just wondering what other people get.

:)

Edited by geno8r
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102885-safcii-knock-readings/
Share on other sites

hmm well i thought my SAFC II was screwed as it has been "tuned" very suspect though and during the cold its around 40 but then any sort of hot day even if i am not boosting its at like 90 - 100 which i know is way to high. I also never hear pinging. I am taking it to get checked later on.

If its recording that result i would be a little worried however you can tell pretty easy if it was a once off. On the SAFC II you cant set the knock sensor as a default one to show. Just have a passenger with you and then nail it. They should be able to tell you when it hits the high numbers

on one of the hottest days (40deg) mine hit around 35 on idle, but that isnt really bad as your engine isnt really under load, but 90-100 is rather high.

as long as it hits 0 while under load then its fine, i rev to about 1000-1200 if my knock gets a bit high on idle, i find it drops a bit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeap, not as doorty as ITB's, but alot more doorty than before, induction sound great when I'm up it 🤗
    • Any difference in induction noise?
    • If I got a dollar for every flipped commuter missile I've driven past I'd have two dollars   Some people get into wild adventures on the road and I doubt it's gender or ethnicity specific. I'm just glad I don't usually drive during peak times.
    • Just got the car back and gave it a good run back home Power wise, whilst it only made a extra 5 killerwasps up top at 7200 rpm, it made more power everywhere from 2500 rpm and kept pulling much harder all the way, to the point of me relearning when to shift so I don't hit the 7200 limiter, with the old intake it seemed to take alot more time to rev out, and, throttle response is also much improved  As I didn't want to remove the bumper every time I serviced the air filter (basically every aftermarket and fabricated CAI has the filter behind the bumper) it currently has a hektic exposed pod in the engine bay sucking in hot air, this will be rectified shortly after some some of my CAD (cardboard assisted design) for a alloy heat shield feed by the OEM intake tube behind the bumper, this will cop some wrinkle black paint, as well as the intake pipe for that totally OEM look... The only fly in the ointment was that the OEM "strut" brace doesn't fit over the rear runner of the new intake with the 2.5 engine is in the engine bay, as the 2.5 raises the engine up by 20mm, it's not a war stopper, and I didn't notice any difference without it in some twisties, but....... MX5 Mania is bringing in some GWR "fancy pants" braces that apparently do fit, if it bolts up I'll grab it, it is also stiffer than the OEM one, which is a bonus All in all I'm happy with the outcome      Fancy pants "strut" brace that gives the required clearance      This is where the clearance issue was, the GWR extends out past this
×
×
  • Create New...