Jump to content
SAU Community

10psi Ok After Fmic?

nsta

By nsta,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

nfi Community Regular

nfi

Posted
Posted

10psi will be fine. Some people run 12psi with no problems at all. A friend of mines old series 2 used to run 14psi with no problems at all.

It is common though for the ceramic wheel to come off the turbo above 13psi. At 10psi you would have to be unlucky.

The safest thing to do is put the car on the dyno and wind the boost up. Might cost you $60-80 but will be well worth it to have the peace of mind.

James

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted
10psi will be fine. Some people run 12psi with no problems at all. A friend of mines old series 2 used to run 14psi with no problems at all.

It is common though for the ceramic wheel to come off the turbo above 13psi. At 10psi you would have to be unlucky.

The safest thing to do is put the car on the dyno and wind the boost up. Might cost you $60-80 but will be well worth it to have the peace of mind.

James

You User id is so well suited to your response

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

I'll put in a little more effort as I have work to do and I don't want to do it so....

considering you have said that you had 7psi before with stock setup, that you have an R33 gtst.

with the new fmic, you have better cooling for your intake air.

so yes you can turn the boost up to 10 psi.

but consider the following.

1 - your turbo's ceramic exhaust wheel may break due to the increase in 2 things... exhaust heat and turbine revolutions.

2 - you will also probably (most likely) start to get a misfire at around 5000rpm with increase in boost as the r33's do this. a simple fix is to reduce the gap of your spark plugs down to about 0.8 - 0.7mm

3 - you have a stock fuel pump - this should be upgraded immediately as a safety measure.

4 - to get the most out of your new cooling and extra boost, you might want to get some sort of ecu (like power fc) or piggy back (like SAFC) so that a tuner can make adjustments to your tuning to make sure you have a higher power output and also safer at the same time.

don't think that 10 psi is a safe limit and that your turbo will not break here.

even when stock some have been known to break.

so you increase it, you increase the risk of kablaamoo for turbo.

Having said that, a stock R33 turbo second hand is about $350

or youo can buy one of MANY garrett turbo's from like $1500 +

good luck

benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
Posted

Some stock ECUs don't mind 10psi but I think with a FMIC and exhaust your airflows will be a lot higher so you may force the ECU to run very rich and retard the timing (you will then lose power!!)

I am running 10psi but with a PowerFC, a SAFC may do the job - not as tuneable though.

I considered 10psi to be a safe level, but you never know. May last 2 weeks or 4 years. The turbos are getting older now and even R34 ones have gone pop around 12psi.

Depends how you use it. A track day will sort it out. I think I will drop boost presure to 7 or 8 psi if I hit the track.

Links Veteran

Links

Posted
Posted

Check what it's currently running with an aftermarket boost gauge.. mine runs 0.66Bar (8psi) stock.. after putting on a bleed valve - it spikes to ~0.7ish (9/10psi)..

anyways - yeah - check what it's really doing - than decide.. also depends on how you drive.. if you constantly drive around on boost of course your going to increase the risk of something happening..

benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
Posted

At the end of the day you cant predict it really. A lot of WRXs boost there TD04s up to 17psi which also has a ceramic wheel, strange the nissan ones are so fragile.

I love the response of the factory turbo. If I replaced it I would like to drive a car with a HKS 2530 and one with a GCG high flow to compare the two.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      Thanks Santa (the neverending trials of the 400,000klm, 400kw, RB30, manual swapped Stagea)

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Thanks Duncan! Yeah it's street use for me only. Maybe occasional track day. Any difference in noise when running with the two pumps? I would expect the lift pump to be more quiet than the main pump so hopefully not? And yes, unfortunately quite a big price difference to the simple hanger setup. Though I'm usually willing to trade money for better reliability and future-proofing. Buy once, cry once and all that. I'd be very happy to never have to deal with fuel pump / wiring issues again  
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Bonnet clearance?
    • joshuaho96
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
×
×
  • Create New...