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Item: Nissan R33 gts-t series 1 1994

Location: Geelong, Victoria

Item Condition: excellent

Reason for Selling: upgrade plan

Price and Payment Conditions: $20,000 firm, no RWC, reg till aug/06

Extra Info:

Nissan R33 series 1 gts-t (1994)

White

RB25DET

82,000kms

5 speed manual

Jim Berry brass button clutch (installed last weekend)

Blitz SS air filter

HKS FMIC

Hi-Flow turbo

Nismo 840cc injectors

Malpassi adj fuel reg

Nippon Denso performane fuel pump

Microtech lts-12 ECU & handcontroller (comes with stock ECU also)

Blitz spec S electronic boost controller

Full turbo back aftermarket exhaust system

Cusco strut brace

nismo clear side indicators

Full bodykit

*veilside rear bar, 400R sides, frontbar (to be decided), type M wing

*(wont include frontbar & carbon bonnet/mirrors)

17" rims (235/45/r17 bridgestone 70% rubber)

braided brake lines

Bendix advance brake pads

blue painted calipers

lowered

tinted windows

alarm/imobiliser (keyless entry)

full earthing kit

El Dials cluster (white during day an choice of green/blue at night)

Rockford Fosgate head unit, earthquake front 6" splits

interior is stock & excelent condition

Car has always been meticulously maintained (service every 6 months)

few marks in paint (few stone chips in std bonnet one key scratch on rear 1/4 panel....bastards) - no panel damage

last time up on a dyno made 248kw (@melb autosalon) on 18psi

mainly driven on 12psi

never been draging (calder etc..) or done trackwork

has been my 4 year project but something I want has come up, has always been well treated, always garaged, I'm first Ausralian owner.

there may be other stuff i've missed. Am looking to sell this relitively quickly....but not for a cheaper price

comes with standard VIC plates

for more photo's...see my gallery in members section (no longer has the GT wing)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...e/2/ppuser/7879

Contact Details:

Berin Connell

0417 546 384

[email protected]

post-7879-1138012263.jpg

post-7879-1138012309.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102964-modified-r33-250kw-wheels/
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Car only for sale until my next potential project car that is currently for sale gets sold. would consider $22,500, have to act quickly.

otherwise, i'll be holding onto my pride & joy for further modification...

Price DROP!!!! Have to sell quickly otherwise i'll miss the oportunity on my next car.

$20,000!!!!!!!! (but i'll be keeping my wheels too)

Be fast. AWSOME car at this price, if i didnt need to act fast, there is no way I'd let it go this cheap.

250kW R33 for $20,000.

have reciepts for all work done on car, has cost me over $10,000 in modifications ALONE!!

i'll be sorting out some 17" rims for it, but if i cant find decent ones at a decent price, it'll be to stock 33 rims.

Being its another 33 i'm looking at buying i want to retain my personal touches to my car that took me a long time to find.

I am also currently getting a fibreglass GTR front bar for it which will be freshly painted & fitted. (keeping mine because its GENUINE GTR series 3 item)

also, i know its a far stretch, but if anyone is willing to pay for the car on say a friday, and pick it up on the following monday arvo....

the car will come with a carbonfibre bonnet (single 400R type vent in centre of bonnet), HKS coilovers, nismo 300km speedo, nismo mechanical LSD & HKS cat back exhaust (all which will be removed from the other car i'll be getting, hense why i need both cars for the weekend).

I'd just need the weekend to change over the parts from one car to the other. Oh and I'm a mechanic by trade, so you can be safe in knowing i know what i'm doing when replacing these items.

  • 2 weeks later...

I think I'm selling this car for too cheap as is....so does everyone I know when I tell them what price I'm selling it for....

so no sorry, the $20,000 is the firm lowest price. And a bargan at that.

as mentioned in a few posts up, it'll have coilovers & carbon bonnet & few other goodies extra, provided once paid for I can keep the car for for a few days to put the goodies in.

cheers

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    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
    • Are you doing the work yourself or are you paying for labour? 
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