Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello from London UK :)

Been reading this forum for the last couple of days, simply because you guys seem to be the only souce of Cefiro info in the WHOLE of cyberspace. Im a member of www.driftworks.co.uk which is the UK's main drift comunity. I have just bought an A31 Cefiro and wondered if you guys could offer me some information?

I have also just bought myself another R33gtst which was unfortunatly involved in a nasty accident :P However the running geat and engine are straight so I was planning on swapping the engine and box into a ceffy. I can't see this being massivly difficult but if anybody knows of someone who has done it. I would love to speak to them before hand!

Questions:

Are the R32 and A31 rear subframe & suspension components the same?

Am I right in thinking S13 coilovers will fit the A31?

I know that R32 rear strutbraces will fit the A31 but what about front? Nobody over here stocks aftermarket items for the A31 and I was wondering if they where the same as S13 items.

My car runs an RB20E engine on an automatic box... Which is a bit crap but i bought the car for the shell (which is really tidy) rather than the engine (which is shat) Does anybody know what diffs these cars run? Are they standard open diffs? or do they have an LSD.

Thanks in advance folks!

and HELLO!

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102975-hello-from-the-uk/
Share on other sites

Greetings. congratulations on buying a good car

most footwork (suspension etc) will come out of the S13,

the RB25 will fit into the engine bay, as will all other running gear

i dunno about front strutbraces

if you look inside the centre console between the two seats there is a gold sticker which tells you whether or not you have a viscous LSD which are shat anway, enjoy!

The R33 running gear won't bolt straight up to the Cefiro though will it?

It was my understanding that the A31 was built on the S13/R32/Z32 floorpan and the R33/R34/S14/S15 etc were all built on a compleatly different one. VLSD's are not as shit as people make out ya know.

Fresh R33 VLSD's do lockup quite nicely with a kick in 2nd gear :) However it's not exactly advisable to lift off while sliding :) If it has an open diff, i will weld in in the short term then buy something like a Kaaz 2way or something.

Im only setting the car up as my "Road Car" as the S14 (that I use to compete in some of the drift series over here) has grown a little bit too extream for everyday road use :P

Thanks for the information folks!

Chris

Edited by Guishnu

we just used the front and rear hubs of an R33 GTSt to do a 5 stud conversion on a ceffy. We also swapped the RB25DET, gearbox, wiring loom, ECU, power steering pump, rack, alternator, brakes, and brake booster into the A31 (coincidentally also an RB20E auto model). So its mostly compatible. Suspension struts/coilovers are more compatible with the S13. Diff was the same as an R32... or maybe it was an S13... i'm not actually sure on that one, we used a mechanical 1.5 way in any case. A viscous LSD will only last you so long, but if its for regular street use and not track use, then it'll be fine.

A31 strutbraces can be bought out of thailand/malaysia pretty cheaply, they're decent quality too (or you can get em from australia, either way you'll get stung with shipping though). You can't fit R32 strutbraces onto an A31, because the R32 ones are 2 bolt and the A31's are 3 bolt. Your best bet would be an adjustable S13 brace (3 bolt), as the distance between the towers of the S13 and A31 are slightly different.

I have an Rb25 Powered Ceffy that is, when money and time off work permitting gets drifted.

Heres some drivetrain stuff that I don't think was mentioned.

Ceffies use an S13 cradle for the diff, If your going to chase power or dori the car get an R200 diff from an S13 or S14, it will bolt straight in and has 5 stud drive shafts which will handle alot better than the standard 4 stud stockers - this being said I did shatter the 5 bolts on my left hand drive shaft and make a mess of it yesterday.

The drive shafts from an S13 fit. Which makes parts easy to get hence my car is back on the road as of lunchtime today so shattering the driveshaft wasn't the end of the world.

Go the 5 stud R32 Hub conversion, Im sure there is threads buried here about it, its very easy to do all bolt on stuff, but on the rear youll have to bend and cut the drum metal shrouding stuff... Hard to explain but as far as I know its doesn't come off...

Thats my 2 cents on driveline stuff, its good to upgrade it all it will save some headaches and isn't very expensive to do.

As for engines... Go an RB26

"Well why not? If anythings worth doing, its worth doing right" -Raoul Duke, fear and Loathing In las Vegas

Edited by BasketCase

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.
    • @silviaz Ok cool, so much easier with a video. I can see why this video would be confusing for new players.   It is obvious that this entire bonnet is going to be resprayed, have a look in the background around 2:05, you can see a bunch of bare metal on the left side of the bonnet.  It's not an issue for the primer being laid down on the non-prepped clear on the bonnet. It will be sanded off at a later stage.  This might not be obvious to new players, but working on bare metal and factory paint in this instance, the factory paint is like a mountain and the bare metal is a huge valley. The bonnet needs to be levelled flat before it receives it's final stage of colour and clear coat. During this levelling process, the primer that is landing on the clear that you are worried about will be removed.  Also, this guy is out of control. Zero PPE while spraying, maybe he is a good example overall about what not to do lol.
    • Ok I FINALLY found a video lol. This took way longer than it should have as I could have sworn I saw multiple videos like this. I kept finding the completely opposite (the correct way of doing this). I wouldn't be surprised if I f**ked this up somehow.  I just realised where I've been getting confused and even with other things I work on. I haven't been doing things the regular way instead I'm going a roundabout way of doing things, like putting epoxy primer first then filler for example instead of putting just filler then primer on top of that, then wondering what happens if I get that primer on the clear coat that I haven't sanded yet. This was a bit of an epiphany 馃槀  But anyways, here this video. Time stamp, 2:56, some of the primer lands on the paint unscuffed above. You can see from the reflection it looks shiny.  
    • It does, this part circled in red. I assume the OEM bolt might not work well with the poly bushing because the dimensions may be different?
    • The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.
  • Create New...