Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i found this today on j-spec

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=5053

and it is a GTR R33 for 23gs!! yes, u r rite , a GTR!! i know it is a S1 and has done quite a bit mileage( not even genuine), but it is a GTR with RB26.

i remember about a year ago, this was the price u pay for a GTST S2 R33.

it is killin me now as i just imported one myself for over 30gs.

so where do u think the price is heading?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103003-where-is-the-price-of-gtr-heading/
Share on other sites

down? the older the car gets the cheaper its gonna be. The importation laws have settled down, and the number of RAWS for R33's is at saturation point. More competition means cheaper prices, combine that with a cheap inital outlay and no outrageous profit margins and that's what you get. Although the local dealers won't have you believing any of that. :P

Half the time cars are expensive is because everyone's willing to pay the current market price, and dealers will bump the price of cheap cars to market price, because they know people will pay it. Although there's also the stupid thing that when a car is actually cheaper than market price, people automatically assume somethings wrong with it.

oh no, I didn't mean you, but in general, people usually assume something's wrong with a car if its cheaper than usual.

u r right, there are dealers who would still sell S1 GTR R33s for above 35 gs, and u know what? there are ppl who buy them, coz they think they are in good condition just because theri price.

and the margin is how much money they make.

im gonna lose so much money when i sell mine :O

^^ if that was the case than why did you buy a skyline..

you surely didn't buy it because of it's value keeping properties.. I bought it because I wanted a performance car..

you will have owned one of the best street drivable cars around.. and sure you'll lose money.. but it's def worth it!!..

and I doubt a R33 gtr will loose as much value %wise than an R33 gts-t..

What's the going rate on compliance for GTRs these days? $2,500 sounds pretty cheap.

It's a good price, but you'd also have to figure in costs of sourcing stock parts, Brembo pads if required, as well as all the other costs (eg tyres but that's a given).

razdollar. apparently 32 GTR compliance under sevs is now down to around $2500 too. I haven't been able to confirm this, but if it's true is makes buying a nice 93 or 94 model 32 a much more attractive option that what has been happening with people seeking out 89 and 90 32s almost exclusivley. (obvioulsy not anymore due to the new legislation).

Really? I haven't really bothered checking around at the moment, I just assumed GTR compliance was still over $3k.. (Non V-Spec) 32s would be cheaper as they don't have to worry about Brembo pads..

Oh well. When are you coming back Richo? Wet T-Shirt @ City RSL next Thursday :)

This is all very interesting, and its a good thing i saw this thread before doing my rebuild.

After speaking with Jspec (very helpful) im on the border of selling my R32 and buying an R33. For the price difference the car is alot newer, and less likely of course to breaking various parts.

One problem that i discovered - OEM parts for compliance, that could work out to be a HUGE cost!!!

Unless i was to stumble across a less that perfect compliance shop....

Has this made anyone else think the same way?

The price here has dropped massively in recent times as the cost of compliance has been slashed and the import duty has been dropped from what I here. The cost in Japan hasn't really dropped that much at all. Just feel for me, I bought my 33 GTR bit over 2 yrs ago, searched for the most perfect one I could lay my hands on, cost FOB 2.5mil yen, 15% duty + 10%GST, plus $7500 compliance as I was one of the 1st to go through the RAWS system. OUCH!!!!!

But having said that, it has been the most enjoyable car I have owned so far by far. . . . .

$2500 is the going rate for compliance on an R33 nowadays, but you'll usually get stung with cost of replacement of perishable parts like brakepads, discs etc. Sucky thing about SEVS compliance is that you need to use the same parts that the RAW has tested, ie OEM Nissan stuff.

R32 compliance is also dropping now (I think $3000 was the lowest I've seen, but then again it might have dropped since last month) as more RAWs get approved to do em.

Sounds like it's worth investigating Steve. I'd really like to see a 1.2M R33 in the flesh just to satisfy my doubts as to it being a sound car. I wonder if you'd miss the R32!? :D

Im definatly investigating, but yeah, i would miss the 32 - nothing beats the original!

I bought my 33 GTR bit over 2 yrs ago, searched for the most perfect one I could lay my hands on, cost FOB 2.5mil yen, 15% duty + 10%GST, plus $7500 compliance as I was one of the 1st to go through the RAWS system.  OUCH!!!!!

I feel for you Jason. Dude you must be like me putting your fingers in your ears singing to yourself trying to ignore current prices.

My R32 was Y1.1 plus the respray and panel repairs when it arrived! :) And then you see beautiful late model R32's with sensible mods going for less than I'm out of pocket.

I'm glad the car is so much fun to drive and work on! Eases the pain :)

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mate you saved be from dying in the Perth summer. AC wasn't changing direction and just going into diagnostics mode fixed it. You're a legend and I would shout you a beer if I could!
    • Unfortunately effort gone to waste, you will have substantial issues with how the manifold and wastegate have been integrated. You would be so much better off with a modified stock manifold like this: https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25detexgatedmanifold/   OR literally just getting a off the shelf Sinco or 6Boost manifold as myself and others have mentioned.  
    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
×
×
  • Create New...