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... The AP's will fit specific 17" rims, the ones he has done were on the cars had the same set of RAYS on each,

What size rotor, 355mm or 343mm? 343mm woudl be no drama at all on most wheels, 355 woudl be a test:)

The whole fiting inside a certain rim has a few variables. Including the design of the rim, cast, 3-piece, forged etc.

Secondly the style of caliper. The CSC upgrade on a 343mm rotor didnt fit inside my old AVS wheels. Throw the WEDS on they cleared perfectly. I have trial fitted a few different combos and measured a few up, and the caliper does play a large part. Surprise the 4 pot AP caliper on a 343mm rotor fitted inside the AVS wheel, though the AP 4 pot caliper i trial fitted was only meant for rotor sizes up to 330mm

My friends Alcon 4 pot brakes cleared my old AVS Model 5 wheels but not my AVS Model 6 wheels ?!?!?! SO, who can say :)

Some calipers saddle the rotor a lot better. The 8 pot Brembos i mentioned actually fitted on a 330mm rotor, and still fitted inside std R32 GTR 16" wheels..so look at your car on a case by case basis.

You can get manufacturer drawings for many of the calipers....measure it all up and decide what you want, then go shopping.

I know which caliper and rotor i want, problem is i cant really afford the $6,500 for a front brake upgrade, so continue to hunt around for a better compromise :)

And truth be told, a 240rwkw R32 GTST doesnt need big brakes for 4-5 laps of a circuit, even one liek Sandown which really tests brakes :P

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What size rotor, 355mm or 343mm? 343mm woudl be no drama at all on most wheels, 355 woudl be a test:)

The whole fiting inside a certain rim has a few variables. Including the design of the rim, cast, 3-piece, forged etc.  

Secondly the style of caliper. The CSC upgrade on a 343mm rotor didnt fit inside my old AVS wheels. Throw the WEDS on they cleared perfectly.  I have trial fitted a few different combos and measured a few up, and the caliper does play a large part. Surprise the 4 pot AP caliper on a 343mm rotor fitted inside the AVS wheel, though the AP 4 pot caliper i trial fitted was only meant for rotor sizes up to 330mm

My friends Alcon 4 pot brakes cleared my old AVS Model 5 wheels but not my AVS Model 6 wheels ?!?!?! SO, who can say :P

Some calipers saddle the rotor a lot better. The 8 pot Brembos i mentioned actually fitted on a 330mm rotor, and still fitted inside std R32 GTR 16" wheels..so look at your car on a case by case basis.

You can get manufacturer drawings for many of the calipers....measure it all up and decide what you want, then go shopping. 

I know which caliper and rotor i want, problem is  i cant really afford the $6,500 for a front brake upgrade, so continue to hunt around for a better compromise :)

And truth be told, a 240rwkw R32 GTST doesnt need big brakes for 4-5 laps of a circuit, even one liek Sandown which really tests brakes :(

Just to throw some extra info to this discussion, I was out at Calder today to shake down my R32 GT-R for the first time before our motorsport c'ship begins in February.

I have fitted a front and rear CSC upgrade consisting of 355*32 mm 6 pot fronts and 343*28mm rears with 2 pot caliper.

This setup costs roughly the same as an AP front upgrade when you consider braided lines and pads.

They are locally made and Sebastian at CSC supports his product well.

I can honestly say the set up is very impressive, and very well balanced give the complete upgrade of front and rear brakes components.

At Calder I brake from 200 (up to 230kmh if I get the front straight entry right) every 30 seconds. I am using DS3000 pads up front and Hawk HPS pads at the rear.

It's a fantastic setup and copes with the constant heat very well give the short (1.05-1.08 sec lap times).

The only issues I'm having is with the RE55 SR tyres I'm running it seems the stub assembly is flexing under load and giving me a bit of pad knock off. Hardly a major issue as it's not that much.

Of course I'm biased here but it's real world testing and you do a lot worse for your hard earned cash. :)

Regards

Andrew

Edited by BBGTR

How is to drive compared to the WRX :)

Your brake uprgade looks pretty goods, but the cost of the kits is what i will spend over 2 years of track days :domokun: I need to be smarter with my money so i can afford better mods :)

Be good to see after 10-12 track days how the pads are wearing, rotors etc etc.

How is to drive compared to the WRX :)

Your brake uprgade looks pretty goods, but the cost of the kits is what i will spend over 2 years of track days :)  I need to be smarter with my money so i can afford better mods :)

Be good to see after 10-12 track days how the pads are wearing, rotors etc etc.

It's completely different. I love the flames out the back though :domokun:

It's a bit hard to get used to it when you're watching out for V8 Supercars coming past you at 270kmh :)

Yep, it's a large outlay but I like to balance my go with some serious slow.

I got 14 events out of the CSC rotors on my Sti using Hawk Blues so I'll be interested to see how these go.

Regards

Andrew

Edited by BBGTR

Did the pads show even wear, indicating that the leading/trailing piston size was on the money.

The pads didnt taper top to bottom indicating that the caliper is deflecting etc etc? Little things like that are why im hesitant to do the CSC 343mm 4 pot upgrade. Im sure they are ok, but i am too tight to spend the money...

Plus i want Alcons, but beer pocket, Moet taste ...i mean i want to feel aroused when i look at my brakes:)

Did the pads show even wear, indicating that the leading/trailing piston size was on the money.

The pads didnt taper top to bottom indicating that the caliper is deflecting etc etc?  Little things like that are why im hesitant to do the CSC 343mm 4 pot upgrade. Im sure they are ok, but i am too tight to spend the money...

Plus i want Alcons, but beer pocket, Moet taste ...i mean i want to feel aroused when i look at my brakes:)

Pad wear rates look good - both leading trailing and top to bottom. I had no issues with the 343 mm setup on the rex after 2.5 years of track use either.

It all comes down to the ALCON bling and whether it's worth the extra $3k.

Getting a woody while looking at car parts means it's therapy time!! ;)

Regards

Andrew

Bought from NENGUN at $505.00 and arrived from Japan in less than a week. I brought my last set from RaceBrakes and cost the above just for the fronts a Ferodo compound.  The CC-X's are Track orientated but I can still drive home on. Less dust than the Ferodos.

After a couple of trips to Mallala i am very happy with them and am now considering upgrading to a 6 pot Endless upgrade kit. Race brakes recommended APs and although I have seen them on skylines the Endless rotors and calipers look appear comparable slightly better priced i.e I could get front and rears for the same AP or Brembo 6 pot front only upgrade. The front/rear  balance should be evenly matched. Looking at doing the classic Adelaide this year and should have fitted by then.

The endless pads are pretty good. I have just bought a set of the next one up from the CC-X (CC-R) the only downside to them is that they are not suitable for street at all, but should give nice performance on the track. if anyone is after another set of the CC-X i can get them for around $430 delivered (for a full front and rear set), the CC-R are a little more pricey, not sure how much they were off the top of my head.

Well i just ordered a EGT probe for my data logger. I will hook it up to the front right (away from the wastegate vent) hub and see what temps i get around Sandown. I will then throw on a new undertray i have fo rmy car which has ducting for brakes and i will see if there is any change in brake temps and performance.

If some effective ducting means the brakes out last the coolant/oil temperatures then ill be stoked.

Will post data printouts when done...provided i dont put it upside down on the back striaght :P

Cooler is in the drivers side inner guard, where is it going....ummm still working on that one,i have an idea or two from looking at an R31 GTSR Grp A car, but willsee if it fits how they had it plumbed up....very similar to what that fella was telling you about coolers and locations :)

you are making me all insecure about my placement now bloodnut! but on the GTR the brake ducts are just for show. until the swiss chese job was done the one that houses the oil cooler just went into the front bar, then no-where. I have at least cut off the backing plates. I like my oil cooler spot though cause it works so well.

Beer Baron - think about the air pressure caused by the rotating front wheel, and the positive pressure caused directly in front of it.

So if you cut holes in the inner guard for the cooler to eject the air, it doesn't do much because of the relative positive pressure behind it.

It's better to cut a side exit in the bumper where the air flow across it will be a negative pressure drawing out the hot air

Beer Baron - think about the air pressure caused by the rotating front wheel, and the positive pressure caused directly in front of it.

So if you cut holes in the inner guard for the cooler to eject the air, it doesn't do much because of the relative positive pressure behind it.

It's better to cut a side exit in the bumper where the air flow across it will be a negative pressure drawing out the hot air

agreed. but dam it looks ugly. but it wasn't just holes cut in the liner. there is an aluminium duct built around the core to force the air through the oil cooler, then out through the back. it definately works, but i agree it could work better with a side exit, but again...damn...

Sorry, i have a spreadsheet at home with all the Nissan caliper sizes and master cylinder sizes, rotor sizes etc, but am working in Singapore at the moment :(

But if you do a search you will find the piston sizes, as i have posted them before.

Roy,

I tried to find the post you mentioned, but failed rather miserably. Can you point me in the irght direction?

Cheers

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