Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just wondeirng if i'll need to trim the fan blade off of my r33 gts25t series 1, if i install my new hybrid gt-spec intercooler kit,.Ive heard people say that with the new gtspec kits, theres no need to trim fanblades?as id like to do it myself, im not too keen if i will have to trim fanblades, as i'll probably ruin sumthing, its the one thing thats stopping me from diy'in the fmic.

One other thing.....my piping doesnt have a nipple for my solenoid going back to turbo???is there another line i can tap into?, or should i be getting a nipple put in?

thanks

Did this not long ago.

I trimmed the blades before fitting it up, and in retrospect probably didn't need to. The pipe going across just behind the radiator sits up pretty high - i would try to fit without trimming, i reckon you'd come darn close.

Otherwise, if you need to cut them - i just did it with wire cutters. it's only the back of the blades that needs attention, anyhow, and just a little snip at 45 degrees should do it.

with the "nipple" - just plumb into either the vacuum line out of the front of the manifold (to the fuel reg) or the one that goes to the BOV.

Oh and btw you won't need to cut the front fan plastic shroud, either (for the aircon fan).

Whole job took about 5-6 hours, and i'm no whiz with the tools :(

some people chop out some of the bumper reo bar to get the cooler to sit back some more .and yes its not uncommon to have to trin about 5 mm off the fan blades to clear the piping . u may also have to relocate your hoen as well in cases

^ Ah yes, forgot to add that a trusty angle grinder was required for the reo bar :(

And you'll need a hole saw too. There's plenty of exciting new homes for your horns when you're putting everything back together.

For what it's worth, when i picked up my cooler i was told that Autobarn installs them for about $100 or $150, (i can't remember exactly how much but it seemed pretty reasonable). But i'm one of those ppl that prefers to do everything himself.

Edited by Beeble

Thanks so much guys, im going to do this tommorow hopefully if i get the time, how much off the fanblades will i need to cut off, and could u please post a pic of where i cut from/to?

If i cut the blades wrong could i do damage to the cooling system in effect?

please help guys, i got the cooler fitted, only top brackets are on, sits nicely, and i will have to relocate the horn, but thats the least of my worries, the piping that needs to go back to the stand piping hole is too short, or so i think, do i need to make the hole bigger or something???ive moved the cooler right back so i cant understand why this is happening.Also with all these hose clamps, how much do of the pipe needs to be over the clamp before i tighten, sorry new to this diy stuff (heheh)

Although you may not have much choice, trimming fan blades is a bad idea coz it might make the fan out of balance and consequently may affect other things like water pump, engine cooling, etc You could extend the piping by having a longer silicon hose from where the washer bottle is, and for the pipe that goes across the engine lift it with a small metal bar and 2 extra bolts.

Ok i'll try that hopefully all is fine. Just wondering........... if i was to lift the pipe going accross the engine, would that not make the pipe hit the bonnet???, and would that affect the rest of the piping that extends to the cooler itself?

cheers

It's quite tricky and yes the top pipe might touch the bonnet as well. Like I said you will need a longer silicon hose (probably twice as long to the one off the kits) and a metal bar roughly 5 cm2 to lift the top pipe clear the fan. That metal bar will be bolted on the where the engine mount is with 2 extra bolts for the top pipe. I havent got a pic for you but hopefully you can understand the mess that I just typed :)

This is a common problem if you get the Hybrid kits. Apparently the manufacturer is too lazy/cost saving to make some other kits that do not touch the fan. If you want a Hybrid cooler, might as well pay a little bit more and get some custom made kits to avoid this problem. But I guess its too late now :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes...but look at the numbers. There is a tiny tiny fraction of the number of Joules available, compared to what is used/needed. Just because things are "possible" doesn't make them meaningful.
    • Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
×
×
  • Create New...