Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive had a Jim Berry "race clutch" in my 33 for the last 18 months and it has never slipped and was running 300rwkw. I know have closer to 400kw and even a 6500 launch and slicks still didnt slip. They are awesome.

stock drive shaft, gearbox an diff?

if so how they holding up with the high rev launchs??

an what times you been running? ?

  • 3 weeks later...

speaking of nismo super copper mix twin plates

RHD Japan is having a sale for a lot of stuff including this clutch, usually fetches 2.5k easily. Managed to grab one for 2k delivered

be quick, only on for a few more days

http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-super-coppermix-twin-plate-clutch-r34-bnr32-bcnr33-15111

  • 1 month later...

Just fitted an NPC 10", organic, heavy duty clutch (good for up to 300rwkw) and it is a thing of beauty.

It has a very nice progressive feel to it that the stock clutch didn't (it was likely on it's last legs when replaced)

If the pedal is heavier than stock then not by any amount that I can notice (see above).

The best thing is that it was only half the price of a JB clutch!

In fact I got a steel billet lightened flywheel (also very nice) and the clutch from NPC (plus half the labour costs to install it) for less than the cost of a JB clutch (no exchange required).

I'm sure Jims clutches are good but fark me they are expensive! (way too much $$ for me to justify the spend)

I am only running 244rwkw so don't need the full monty even though that's what I was being "up-sold" to...

Edited by Checkbuzz

Single plate is good for stock, don't get a twin plate exedy as they are terrible to drive

Marko, just wondering what makes them terrible to drive as i was recomended to get one by a workshop?

  • 2 weeks later...

Car will be back on the road tomorrow with a custom JB clutch - built out of my old extreme HD clutch that was apparently using the highest rated Nismo pressure plate and diaphragm - Looking forward to seeing the difference as I wasn't terribly keen on the clutch as it came from extreme, and it only lasted a year (with no drags being in Adelaide and barely a handful of mild launches).

Will report back after I've driven it over the weekend.

Just fitted an NPC 10", organic, heavy duty clutch (good for up to 300rwkw) and it is a thing of beauty.

It has a very nice progressive feel to it that the stock clutch didn't (it was likely on it's last legs when replaced)

If the pedal is heavier than stock then not by any amount that I can notice (see above).

The best thing is that it was only half the price of a JB clutch!

In fact I got a steel billet lightened flywheel (also very nice) and the clutch from NPC (plus half the labour costs to install it) for less than the cost of a JB clutch (no exchange required).

I'm sure Jims clutches are good but fark me they are expensive! (way too much $ for me to justify the spend)

I am only running 244rwkw so don't need the full monty even though that's what I was being "up-sold" to...

+1 for me too. Very helpful, and had the clutch and flywheel delivered in 3 days.

Car will be back on the road tomorrow with a custom JB clutch - built out of my old extreme HD clutch that was apparently using the highest rated Nismo pressure plate and diaphragm - Looking forward to seeing the difference as I wasn't terribly keen on the clutch as it came from extreme, and it only lasted a year (with no drags being in Adelaide and barely a handful of mild launches).

Will report back after I've driven it over the weekend.

Update: This may well be the first bad thing said about JB on here (sorry JB!) - got the clutch back from QLD, put the car back together and we couldn't get it into gear at all. Turns out JB made a mistake and somehow sent the wrong pressure plate. Oops!

Waiting for the correct one now...

  • 1 month later...

hey guys just recently fitted a twin plate nismo coppermix in an r32 gtr. Drives really nice, no shudder and pedal felt lighter than stock. One thing though im not sure if other nismo users experience the same thing but the pedal sits really high

  • 2 weeks later...

hi guys

I've always heard jb have a good rep but have had 2 mates with problems from jim, the first was a stock rx-7 fd and got the clutch back and terrible shuddered and was just a light switch, and the second was a supra and couldn't get it into gear both where traced back to mistakes by jim.

Just installed a new NPC 10" heavy duty organic clutch and new flywheel. OMG, the car drives so much better now. Can highly recommend this NPC clutch. Rated to 300rwkw +. Handles the power and is so easy to drive.

You guys with mostly standard cars could also have a look at Gripforce/F1 racing clutches too, i have one in my 300ZX and they are great. They are cheap and pretty big over on the 300ZX forums, my 6 button clutch was $750 installed and has 250% clampforce increase over stock. I know that R33 GTSt and 300ZX NA clutches are interchangeable, 300ZXTT however are a fair bit bigger. Just throwing it out there, you guys don't need to spend heaps on clutches if you aren't making huge power.

Edited by Super Drager
  • 1 month later...

well my 3 month old 10' carbonic NPC clutch welding to my flywheel,

clutch sliped on a launch car is making 340rwkw with street tyres.. not sure how but we'll see what thet say i have sent it back to them to check out.

so got the call off NPC on Wednesday.

they seemed very helpful, they have rebuilt the clutch plate and are sending it back for me today. after sales service seems great.

will report back once the clutch is in and all good.

so got the call off NPC on Wednesday.

they seemed very helpful, they have rebuilt the clutch plate and are sending it back for me today. after sales service seems great.

will report back once the clutch is in and all good.

did they give any explanation,? or use a different material this time ? I used to do it heaps with my old JB single, got the point where every time I launched even with no riding the clutch it would weld :domokun:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If the RB29 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
×
×
  • Create New...