Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gt25t Series 1 headlight maintenance

SHUTO-BOY

By SHUTO-BOY,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
Posted

Just in response to the parkers removal query if it wasn't solved, passenger side is easy access for aussie hands, driver side required me to loosen and move the fuse box, wiper fluid reservoir and the overflow bottle to get my hand in there 0_o. They may appeard hard to get at, but just pull back the rubber flaps covered them and twist 1/4quarter to get them out, remember not to touch the bulb surface =)

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted (edited)

i used meguires scratch x. started by hand it did pretty well. 1 lights was bretty bad, the other had over spray on it. then i go a woollen pad and rubber disc for the drill and went to work with it. after about 20 seconds the bad 1 looked like new. then i took to the light with the overspray on it. took a bit longer but it took the overspray off. and the best thing is that since it is acutally made for paint u don't have to be that careful and u end up with this nice polished bit around the headlight.

i also had overspray on my chrome grill and i bit of metal polish and the buffer took that off in about 10 seconds.

Edited by mad082
  • 1 year later...
SilverECR33 Veteran

SilverECR33

Posted
Posted (edited)

I Do mine with Meguires Wet Look, You can get it on the paint surrounding the light it dont matter. its a fine polish and you would use it on your car anyhow ( I do my whole car in it). Takes all the Yellow off the lights and makes them look like new, and very shiny :O

Edited by silverbulletR33
  • 7 months later...
W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted

Has anyone found a way to do this permanantly, did mine for the first time the other day and they came up like new, the next day they had gone back to the way they were, every time i do it it lasts a bit a longer but never stays like new.

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • sonicii
      Mechanic in Victoria

      By sonicii · Posted

      I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...