Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi People

I really need help. I went to pump petrol, got out of the car filled up $40 came back and it wouldn't start. My car has been sitting at the petrol sation now for 3 whole days and it's not firing. The engine turns over the fuelpump prims and then nothing. I've changed the ignition module on top of the rocket cover and nothing. I've checked the coil packs and nothing. The problem is that the coil packs arn't firing at all and that's why it's not starting.

I've checked the coil packs and there is a small pulse going to them but apparently it's a positive pulse and it needs a negative or some shit. The sparky had a look at it and i really don't think he knows what he's doin. He told me to get the ignition module and that didn't do anything and now he's telling me to get a new ECU.

The car's got split fire coils and has a microtech ltx12 as well as the standard computer.

So if some one can help me that would be really great.

Cheers

anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/
Share on other sites

If it were a stock engine and ECU the next thing to check after the ignition module is the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) which is on the front timing cover. This tells the ECU when to fire the injectors and the ignition. Your symptoms might suggest the CAS has failed in your case, but since you have an aftermarket system it could also be related to that. You should check the error codes on the ECU if that's still possible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1898609
Share on other sites

If it were a stock engine and ECU the next thing to check after the ignition module is the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) which is on the front timing cover.  This tells the ECU when to fire the injectors and the ignition.  Your symptoms might suggest the CAS has failed in your case, but since you have an aftermarket system it could also be related to that.  You should check the error codes on the ECU if that's still possible.

How fo go i check the CAS??

i took it off and turned it and it started making clicking noises in the engine bay. is does that means that it's working??

Cheers

anthyony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1898631
Share on other sites

Clicking noises are probably injectors, which suggests that side of things is OK (assuming fuel is actually getting to the injectors). CAS also controls ignition. Best way to check is to swap for a known good one.

It could also be something related to the microtech wiring....you say you have that + a standard ecu which seems a little strange to me, but then I've never used m/tech equipment.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1898675
Share on other sites

Clicking noises are probably injectors, which suggests that side of things is OK (assuming fuel is actually getting to the injectors).  CAS also controls ignition.  Best way to check is to swap for a known good one. 

It could also be something related to the microtech wiring....you say you have that + a standard ecu which seems a little strange to me, but then I've never used m/tech equipment.....

Fuel is definatly gettin to the injectors cause we checked the pressure in the lines when the ignition was on.

The microtec looks after fuel and ignition and the standard looks after everything else. . Or so i think.

Cheers

anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1898681
Share on other sites

Does it sound like it wants to fire? Or is the engine simply spinning over? Does the LTX tell you anything that is happening?

Some things to try:

1. Disconnect the fuel line (return line probably best) and have a container to catch any fuel.

2. Prime the engine. Do you get fuel?

3. If "Yes", crank engine. Fuel still?

If "Yes", then clearly fuel side is working. Re-connect fuel line.

4. Use a screwdriver as a stethoscope to listen to the injectors while cranking.

5. Lift coil pack #1 from the spark plug, insert a standard spark plug lead between coil and plug, connect timing light.

6. Crank engine. Timing light strobes?

7. Failing that, pull #1 plug as well, and assemble the coil / plug and observe if the plug sparks while cranking.

8. Check the earth connection for the ignitor module.

All this cranking, it's quite probable the engine has flooded. You might have to pull all the plugs and clean them up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1899459
Share on other sites

Hi

The fuel side is definatly working we can hear the injectors and we took the line out and petrol went every where when we primed the car.

We checked the spark by taking out one of the coil packs and putting it against a screw driver and no spark we tried this on 3 different coil packs and still nothing. We changed the coil packs and still nothing. I'm going insane.

Cheers

anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1899611
Share on other sites

Hi

The fuel side is definatly working we can hear the injectors and we took the line out and petrol went every where when we primed the car.

We checked the spark by taking out one of the coil packs and putting it against a screw driver and no spark we tried this on 3 different coil packs and still nothing. We changed the coil packs and still nothing. I'm going insane.

Cheers

anthony

How about you go to Repco and buy a $14 HEI spark tester and do it properly...a screw driver can still mislead you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1899689
Share on other sites

Hi peoples

Well it's all fixed. it actually was the ignitor.

what are the chances of me getting a dud from the the wreckers. I couldent believe it when i took it to my tuner and he checked everything and said it's your ignitor i told him that it couldn't be cause i got another one from the wereckers. so we tested my ignitor on another r32 and it wouldn't start. so i went out and baught another one for $150 and she works like a charm.

Anyways went back to the wreckers today to return the ignitor cause it wasn't working and he basically told me to go and get fu*d he said that there's somthing wrong with my car and that's why it wasn't working anymore. Oh well what can you do i guess. Thanks for all the ideas guys. Always helpfull

Cheers

anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1902661
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...