Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

me and a mate are thinking of purchasing a car. from auction in australia. Its damaged (as its our project car), it has been registered and still has the rego plates on it, but the compliance plates are missing.

Are you able to get them remade?

If so you how much?

Any advice would be helpful.

-SiNDOWS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103299-remaking-compliance-plates/
Share on other sites

the question is did the plate fall off, or has it been removed for some reason? ie has the car been written off? if so you may not be able to repair. and re-register it. If you just want it as a spares car or track car, that is no problem, but if you want it as a street car you will need to know this before buying. The auction house should be able to fill you in.

my only other advice is don't bid much over $4k for it.

Is it a 15yr old import, or SEVS? Either way I would contact DOTARS on 1800 815 272 and enquire about the situation. Have you checked to see it the vehicle still has the import approval with it? If so it will make your situation so much easier to get a definitive answer.

the question is did the plate fall off, or has it been removed for some reason? ie has the car been written off? if so you may not be able to repair. and re-register it. If you just want it as a spares car or track car, that is no problem, but if you want it as a street car you will need to know this before buying. The auction house should be able to fill you in.

my only other advice is don't bid much over $4k for it.

Mate won it for $3k, was a bargain, needed a new radiator and thats about it and front bar...

The car has been previously registered in NSW and is not listed as a Statutory write-off. Therefore, AFAIK, it can be re-registered as it's details are on the RTA database and it's ID can be verified via the VIN.

What did the R33 go for?

The car has been previously registered in NSW and is not listed as a Statutory write-off. Therefore, AFAIK, it can be re-registered as it's details are on the RTA database and it's ID can be verified via the VIN.

What did the R33 go for?

$7200,

It was an absolute bargain! There was some panel damage thats it. It had sat nav and tv in the cabin, as well as log books and CP plates.

Was an awsome car for the price as well as low km's and very well looked after inside the cabin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm interested if anyone agrees with what you've said, and can give a good reason. Temperature of powder coating should be below any temperature you'd use to alter the wheel structure.  Powder coat typically 200 to 250. Annealing if that's what people are claiming would be occuring, starts at 300, and depending on the alloy, can need even up at 400+.   That's the only part I can think of that could cause an issue that people are believing it's from the rim losing hardness and becoming too soft.
    • Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire.   Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches. Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch. If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight.   Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow?  If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.
    • Anyone know if it's a problem to powder coat forged alloy wheel centers (Rays/Volk GT-C). some say it's bad and can damage the alloy, some say it's not a problem.
    • Hey guys, I'm reviving an old post but I'm finally getting around to working on this now. I removed the battery to get a better look at the wires and i traced the wires from the headlight to the fuse box in the engine bay, but the wiring looks fine? The wiring for the R/H headlight is 3 wires and then is bundled up with the large diameter wire that goes underneath the fuse box. I didn't take it apart yet. I know you said that its a short circuit somewhere between the fuse box and the headlight. But could it be the headlight switch on the dash? Also, i pulled out my multi-meter and set it on the Ohms, but i'm not sure where to put the negative probe and the positive probe.     
    • I have a 2 lt in Sydney. It was fitted on a R33 GTR, not used for several years . If you are interested email me on: [email protected] I'm not on this forum much .
×
×
  • Create New...