Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

Hi v_s_p_e_c,

I am guessing that you dont want your ariel coming up when driving.

If this is the case.

Go to the boot of car, remove the inner trim on the passenger side, remove the two bolts thats secure the antenna in place, remove the top section of the antenna on the car.

Slide the antenna out and unplug the wiring directly from the antenna, Cable tie or secure the wiring so it does not just "flop" around.

Now reinstal the antenna leaving it unplugged. ( top section and two bolts)

Reinstal the inner trim of the boot.

You will still have some radio reception due to the on glass antenna, how ever it will most likely be crappy, so buy a good mp3 player.

Regards

Pj

other option is to pull the radio out and pop a switch inline with the blk/red wire coming off the back of teh radio. then you can drop/raise the antenna at will.

I'm wondering the same thing... Problem is I can't get the two screws holding the arial stuff in place out :P I just wanna disconnect the motor, as my ariel is broken anyway and doesn't raise, so every time i start the car the damn motor whirs and clunks away, it used to just go for a second then stop, but lately it's started going for about a minute. Is it just the same as what's above to disconnect the motor for it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...