Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been looking at upgraded turbos for my RB25 and have been noticeing most of them are only oil cooled... Now i know the stock turbo is oil and water cooled so why are most after market ones only oil cooled and is having the both better???

Also my mate has a T70 wet floating bearing turbo which he bought for his VL... Now ive seen this thing and its bloody big and he asked if i wana buy it... Im a bit put off as of the size.... i dont really need anything that big plus wouldnt it be pretty laggy? Once again its only oil cooled.....

Be great if people could help me out.

Cheers :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103511-water-and-oil-cooled-turbos/
Share on other sites

,27 Jan 2006, 04:29 PM]i think, it goes like this

Plain Bearing Turbos are Oil cooled only

Ball Bearing Turbos are oil and water cooled

Not 100% true as the turbo im using at the moment is water and oil, and its std bearing i guess it depends on the maker.

The T70 you mention sounds like a cheap ebay turbo made in china, i wouldnt recomend it. Get a GCG hiflow, what better value for money is there?

Look at all the garrett GT turbos, they are both water and oil.

Edited by grim32
and can someone elaberate more on the water and oil cooled question?

is it just the brand or is there more to it?

Its generally the series/cartridge etc of the turbo, and who made it.

Culmination of things. Not just brand.

Trust turbos ive seen a lot only using oil. I think they can go water also.

BUT thats not to say bush bearing do not use water at all, thats very much incorrect

The old "T" series Garrett cartridges (used in HKS also) allow you to use water lines, but are not "required"

eg: My old t04e, didnt use water, but there was provision to have it water cooled aswell if i made lines for it (which i didnt bother)

I would IMO prolong life if used

All of the new GT series turbos on offer from Garrett/HKS as all Oil + Watercooled.

End of the day, get a GT series turbo from Garrett or HKS, make sure its something with the new generation of GT wheels.

Not the old t0"X" wheels... and you'll be away.

What you need to do also is set a power goal as the first thing. Then we can all help you better.

As for specific turbo results... check the sticky thread at the top of this section. Has a LOT of upgraded results, which will almost answer your questions

cheers - ash

yer had a look through there and theres some pretty interesting stuff in there...

I really only want about 220rwkw or so... nothing spectacular and actually after reading the sticky about different turbos thinking of just keeping the stock turbo and just upgrade the ECU and other things and just grab 200rwkw or so...

one more thing..... the apexi SAFCii i have noticed is used in quite a few of the cars pushing 200+rwkw.... they arnt overly expensive but by the looks of it they seem pretty good????

What are peoples oppionions on them without rushing out and blowing $1200 on a PFC etc....

my mate has a new Emanage to suit my car, hes going to get back to me with how much he wants for it... with harness and tuneing software etc...

If you stick to the stock turbo, and use a S-AFC...

Once you get an exhaust and at the min a R34 side mount... or a larger front mount, fuel pump...

Then yeah, S-AFC will do a good job if your gonna stick to a stock turbo.

If you get a PFC i will give you more options, but if your happy with a bit less, for a good saving... then S-AFC is a good option.

But if you do plan at some stage to get a hi-flow (for like 240/250rwkw) then i would get the PFC and turbo now, tune it all in one hit and then just wind the boost down till you get used to its new state of power

hmmm to many options haha

already got a turbo back zorst, hks filter, blitz bov, and one of those boost controllers from the forums, fmic is in a month or so just after i get my interior done :D THEN i might just settle for the SAFC.... not sure but i have a feeling my car might already have an upgraded fuel pump..... might rip her out one day when im bored and see wat it says on it...

would a GTR fuel pump be a good and easy upgrade if im just wanting to push 200-220rwkw?? and would they be cheaper just using an OEM GTR fuel pump or just get a bosch 044 or something...

sorry if im sounding dumb but yer just wana take the right approch instead of buying stuff which wont be much good to me....

to support a larger turbo you need

fuel pump

aftermetk ecu (apexi powefc ideal)

larger injectors

z32 airflow meter

good tyres

good suspension setup

good cold air intake setup

at least 3" split dump with 3" front pipe and 3" catback (with hiflow cat)

boost controller

a good tuner

yer yer yer i know that stuff but im just talking now how ive seen 200-220rwkw using the stock turbo... was just wondering would it be possible with the following mods.

Fmic

turbo back zorst

CAI

apexi s-afc2

GTR fuel pump

12psi boost?

anything else?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha ha, yeah, I've had one following me around in my parts boxes since about 2007 I believe. Just a little iddy bit hole drilled in the one I have to let it vent out once pressure was removed from the engine side. Still no idea what I'd put it on, ha ha.
    • Just read this... Just a little bit of a wild one! Do you think the driver was testing out a new feature/device for how to lose the cops in a high speed chase?   I also suspect, if the box has a road sweeper that does magnetic metal pick up, he does a LOT of work in the machining industry. Which is what most of that looked like, machining chips from a mill or lathe. And I bet they're RAZOR sharp! And from an environmental perspective they really do need to actually collect all of those little pieces too. I wonder how many people still cop flat tires over the coming months on that road?   As for insurance company, yeah, it'd be interesting to hear what they say to the owner. But realistically, he's right, that "It's his fault". In the way that, it was his truck that spilled it, so they need to clean it up. However, neither he, nor his insurance company may bear the end cost if they do an investigation and find out it was caused by someone elses negligence (And they know who)...
    • Yeah, no matter what bad things people can say about Julian from Autospeed, he at least was capable of thinking and his inclusion of a check/relief valve in the plumbing for the Audi boost controller, that I made a copy of and used for years**, completely eradicated that problem. **It's still lying on my workbench where I put it about, um, 18 years ago and have never found a home for it!
    • I didn't actually know this! I've seen photos of the H1, mainly outside shots, and they just look "different". I guess there'd be a few little changes like nicer rims, and probably the fact they have nicer looking paint with some depth and shine, which will make any vehicles body look different to the very flat colours of the defence force.   I've watched the guys on GHPC convert their Humvee to LS1, and they've done some really nice front shock upgrade. I'm waiting for the next video on it with the rear end done. I can't remember if they've already done it, or I dreamed it, but I believe they're also supercharging theres. They will be in the future doing proper long travel suspension too.   If you ditch out your big V8, as rubbish as it must be, send it to my place. I'll let the unreliable V8 motor and box be here. I just like V8s... So I'll find something to do with it... Even if that something is just taking up valuable space in the yard. I might have something Skyline I can send back in payment... Or even Ford Barra motors  (From memory you're in Canada yeah?) So you can then play with the legendary Aussie 4L version of an RB...  Except they don't have that distinctive random miss at idle like the RB25 does.
    • Or you mean the age old problem of early 2000's manual boost tees, where they never let the pressure out of the line between the boost tee, and the waste gate, so after your first trip on boost, the damn wastegate liked to stay open and be laggy on gear change?
×
×
  • Create New...