Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, when i turn my ignition off, behind the passenger seat in rear panel trim (thats where it sounds like its coming from or the boot area) there is a loud "click" noise something like the sound of when u lock all your central locking, it all goes click at once, but its only when u turn off the ignition??? its got me stuffed, any one had this problem aswell, and what could it be???

thanx daz.

hey guys, when i turn my ignition off, behind the passenger seat in rear panel trim (thats where it sounds like its coming from or the boot area) there is a loud "click" noise something like the sound of when u lock all your central locking, it all goes click at once, but its only when u turn off the ignition??? its got me stuffed, any one had this problem aswell, and what could it be???

thanx daz.

Holy shiezen, Im going for fuel pump just switching off... that ones a dilly of a pickle :)

Hehhehe.. mine does that too! It's an electric tensioner on the seatbelts!

When the car is running, pull on the drivers belt... it resists a lot. Turn the car off... CLUNK! Now pull the belt... it's smooth with little resistance.

I pulled the rear quarters off when I removed my seat and ran wiring for my stereo, and the belt rolls have an electric something on it, with Australian branding. So I dare say it's an aftermarket thing that was fitted.

I have a pic at home if you're interested.

  • 1 month later...
Hehhehe.. mine does that too! It's an electric tensioner on the seatbelts!

When the car is running, pull on the drivers belt... it resists a lot. Turn the car off... CLUNK! Now pull the belt... it's smooth with little resistance.

I pulled the rear quarters off when I removed my seat and ran wiring for my stereo, and the belt rolls have an electric something on it, with Australian branding. So I dare say it's an aftermarket thing that was fitted.

I have a pic at home if you're interested.

yea post it up if you could, sorry i havent replied to this recently, i forgot all about it, just remembered today again. i though that it mite have sumthin to do with the seatbelts etc, but it was kinda wierd, bcoz it just started outta nowhere.... its pretty loud hey.

Edited by 85URK

Pretty loud, yeah!

I haven't had it for a while now, because my alarm's turbo timer keeps the ignition going after i've taken the belt off and gotten out of the car etc.

But yeah, have you tried pulling on it with the car running and not running? Could you feel the difference?

Pretty loud, yeah!

I haven't had it for a while now, because my alarm's turbo timer keeps the ignition going after i've taken the belt off and gotten out of the car etc.

But yeah, have you tried pulling on it with the car running and not running? Could you feel the difference?

yeah there is like a tensioner that only works when the car is going.

Umm.. no, I didn't. I found it when I made my new parcel-shelf. This is why a couple of shots are through the rear windscreen. =-]

The second pic shows the location. It's kinda under the parcel tray, but adjacent to the rear seat.

Oh, there's that little box that noone knows what it is for! Sits in the left bracket under the parcel tray in Series2's. The same bracket on the right-hand side is empty. Something to do with fuel, apparently.

But yeah, the seatbelt tensioner! Way cool, eh!? Looks to be an Aussie thing done, possibly during compliance. I don't think there is any way to "fix" the noise, cause it's a mechanical device. You could try unplugging it and having just regular spring-tensioned belts.

There is still a spring in them like normal belts, so this should work, and the teeth that grab the belt if it moves a certain speed should still work too. Best to test this though.

The third pic is of the front passenger belt. I had the rear passenger quarter-trim off to fix some broken clips and to run some RCA cables. It too looks to be wired for something, but it is not noisy, only the rears in my car.

Hope it helps! I love gadgets!

Umm.. no, I didn't. I found it when I made my new parcel-shelf. This is why a couple of shots are through the rear windscreen. =-]

The second pic shows the location. It's kinda under the parcel tray, but adjacent to the rear seat.

Oh, there's that little box that noone knows what it is for! Sits in the left bracket under the parcel tray in Series2's. The same bracket on the right-hand side is empty. Something to do with fuel, apparently.

But yeah, the seatbelt tensioner! Way cool, eh!? Looks to be an Aussie thing done, possibly during compliance. I don't think there is any way to "fix" the noise, cause it's a mechanical device. You could try unplugging it and having just regular spring-tensioned belts.

There is still a spring in them like normal belts, so this should work, and the teeth that grab the belt if it moves a certain speed should still work too. Best to test this though.

The third pic is of the front passenger belt. I had the rear passenger quarter-trim off to fix some broken clips and to run some RCA cables. It too looks to be wired for something, but it is not noisy, only the rears in my car.

Hope it helps! I love gadgets!

well i think il leave it, but if it gets worse or anything i mite pull it apart to look at. i just cant beleieve how noisey it is when u do it. u woulda thought that it was quite for a passenger car.... oh well. thanx for your diagnose anyway.

No worries... i've never seen it in anyone else's car, and noone seems to have ever heard of it before, but from what you describe, it's EXACTLY what mine does.

VERY lound clunk, and that seat-belt tension thing is wicked.

No worries... i've never seen it in anyone else's car, and noone seems to have ever heard of it before, but from what you describe, it's EXACTLY what mine does.

VERY lound clunk, and that seat-belt tension thing is wicked.

yeah my first though was it had sumthing to do with the seatbelt tensioner thingy, but its hard to explain what it is to sum1 who has never heard it. my mate were like "WTF" when they first heard it.lol i didnt know what to tell them, just said it sounds like the seat belt thingy to me. :D

  • 3 weeks later...

My 33 has these seatbelt tension thingys too... but they are connected to a wire under each front seat... looks like they used to be connected to the seatbelt socket thing. When the ignition is on, i can short the two pins on the blugs under the seat and there is the loud 'clunk' noise that you speak of. I've never really noticed too much of a difference between shorted and unshorted, but i'll have to try it out!

It sounds like yours are perminently shorted, so they always clunk when the ignition is turned off... try looking under the seats for a cord, and see if there is anything causing the two pins to be connected (the one on the passenger side is easiest, as it only has two pins, the drivers one has four.)

Okay, couldn't resist the temptation :rolleyes:

I went out and sat in in my car, turned the ignition on, and shorted/unshoreted the pins on the seatbelt connector... The belt seems to slide pretty much the same, although with the pins sgorted there is a slight ratchet-type noise when you pull it, whereas without the pins shorted it is quiet... I can't feel any more or less resistance either way though.

I think the "clunk" noise means that it's working, because mine will do it with ignition, and also if I press the seatbelt release button. Oh, and there is a definate change in resistance...

I think when the new compliance rules came out, the seatbelts had to be changed, whereas mine has the original jap belts according to the tag.

  • 4 years later...
Hehhehe.. mine does that too! It's an electric tensioner on the seatbelts!

When the car is running, pull on the drivers belt... it resists a lot. Turn the car off... CLUNK! Now pull the belt... it's smooth with little resistance.

I pulled the rear quarters off when I removed my seat and ran wiring for my stereo, and the belt rolls have an electric something on it, with Australian branding. So I dare say it's an aftermarket thing that was fitted.

I have a pic at home if you're interested.

i have this also. i would've sworn black and blue it was hicas locking itself or something like that... i'll have a listen for the seat belts next time i have someone else near by to turn off the ignition. i'll jump into the back seat and listen... very interesting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...