Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellow skyline freaks.

i'm 19 still on my Ps and currently looking at getting a manual 4door R32 non-turbo.

yeah i know it sux getting a NA skyline but insurance for a P-plater with turbo is pretty expensive and that's if you find anyone that will insure you lol.

my plans are:

full body kit, rims, dropped, exhaust sys with extractors, POD, aaaamm yeah that's pretty much what i have in mind at the moment. i'm looking at keeping it till i get off my Ps then probably an RB25DET conversion or just sell it and get a turbo car.

is there anyone that owns/ has owned an NA 4door 32, what are they like, performance and handling wise.

thanks heaps

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103584-ahoy-hoy-noobie/
Share on other sites

They handle like a dream, but performance wise aren't anything special. It would be a good car to get to start off and look great. Would be a good idea to do a conversion when your off your P plates then your talkin power

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103584-ahoy-hoy-noobie/#findComment-1904674
Share on other sites

They handle like a dream, but performance wise aren't anything special. It would be a good car to get to start off and look great. Would be a good idea to do a conversion when your off your P plates then your talkin power

what kind of power do they make anyway in stock form? i know GTSTs make about 160kw i think <_<

you wouldn't happen to know their 0-100 and 1/4 mile times would ya?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103584-ahoy-hoy-noobie/#findComment-1904682
Share on other sites

what kind of power do they make anyway in stock form? i know GTSTs make about 160kw i think  <_<

you wouldn't happen to know their 0-100 and 1/4 mile times would ya?

cheers

1/4 mile time would be in the 16 sec but couldn't tell ya the 0-100 time :) . power wise probably around 100kw but not too certain, will find out for ya though be back in 10 or so.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103584-ahoy-hoy-noobie/#findComment-1904686
Share on other sites

So your getting an rb20de or 25de? What i suggest, go a 31. You can get em (theres 2 for sale on r31skylineclub.com) with an rb25de in em, and some with rb30de. They are cheap, they are reliable, I have one ( :) ), and they go good as well. It'll only be for a while, and they are sleeper 4000. Love em.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103584-ahoy-hoy-noobie/#findComment-1904744
Share on other sites

So your getting an rb20de or 25de? What i suggest, go a 31. You can get em (theres 2 for sale on r31skylineclub.com) with an rb25de in em, and some with rb30de. They are cheap, they are reliable, I have one ( :) ), and they go good as well. It'll only be for a while, and they are sleeper 4000. Love em.

nah man i'm not really a fan of 31s but yeah it's definately 32 and if i find one with 25de why not.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103584-ahoy-hoy-noobie/#findComment-1904749
Share on other sites

I haven't driven a nat atmo skyline of any kind myself, but my stocko R32 turbo sedan get sideways sooo easily in the wet that I'm sure there is plenty of sliding fun to be had, even in the atmo engined models. But just to be sure, I checked the ever reliable Autospeed.com for their impressions. Autospeed is teh bomb.

"The vehicle on test here is a RB20E single cam 2.0 litre R32 GTE sedan fitted with a 5 speed manual gearbox. Producing 96kW at 5600 rpm and 172Nm at 4400 rpm, this is hardly a speed machine but, with a free flowing exhaust, we were pleasantly surprised to discover 0 – 100 km/h performance in the mid 10s. Acceleration is enhanced by relatively short gearing.

Even with its modest power and torque output, the rear-wheel-drive GTE R32 can easily be provoked into power oversteer. You can’t hold a massive tyre-smoking drift, but the independent rear certainly lets you have some fun. Note that a LSD was fitted to our test car. Wishbone front and a sophisticated independent rear are standard across the R32 range and the GTE’s spring and damper rates are very soft. The GTE 5 speed weighs in at 1240kg – considerably lighter than any of the turbo models."

Complete article here http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2278/article.html

Edited by Big Rizza
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103584-ahoy-hoy-noobie/#findComment-1904757
Share on other sites

i think that a rb20e has a huge 95kw at the flywheel. altho i think the r32 NAs have a rb20de which has about 120kw at the fly.

compare that to a rb25det with 185kw.

Prepare to be blown away by bogans in stock commodores... personally id try for a GTS4, with the rb20det. none came with a rb25de, unless it is an aftermarket.

where in Aust are you?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103584-ahoy-hoy-noobie/#findComment-1904788
Share on other sites

Dont worry mate when you do your engine conversion you'll have the last laugh. You can drift most rear wheel drive cars with an LSD. Last night was a stock as a rock sprinter n/a at queensland raceway and was doin alright. probably had around 90 kw, but like Big Rizza said in the wet you'll have a ball

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103584-ahoy-hoy-noobie/#findComment-1904820
Share on other sites

this is a stupid question but can you make a GTS sound like it's got a turbo somehow lol, i'm not talking about flutter or BOV but just the spooling of the turbo. i've heard POD air filters make that noise when they suck in the air but is there a certain brand of PODs that have louder sucktion noise. don laugh god damn it...........lol

Edited by NUKEYA
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103584-ahoy-hoy-noobie/#findComment-1904840
Share on other sites

this is a stupid question but can you make a GTS sound like it's got a turbo somehow lol, i'm not talking about flutter or BOV but just the spooling of the turbo. i've heard POD air filters make that noise when they suck in the air but is there a certain brand of PODs that have louder sucktion noise. don laugh god damn it...........lol

Just throw a bowl of this in the back.

post-18125-1138426024.jpg

Note that I am not laughing :)

And as far as the V6 commo vs. the RB20DE R32, I think the Commodore would win. But let's not turn this into another vs. thread!

Edited by Big Rizza
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103584-ahoy-hoy-noobie/#findComment-1904868
Share on other sites

4 door r32 with rb20de

114 kw @ 6400 rpm - 184.37 Nm @ 5200 rpm- 1280kg

VS V6 Sedan

147 kw @ 5200rpm - 304 Nm @ 3600rpm - 1380kg

and we'll leave that part of the discussion at that.

the only way i think you could have the sound of turbo would be to put in a turbo... the only other way that i have witnessed is a vacuum leak in the manifold. it made a freind car sound like it had a supercharger when he reved it out...

Another freind was contemplating getting a r33 gts, and installing a CRS Supercharger on it. up the boost, give it a tune and it would be sweet. once i told him the awesome power of a NA skyline (note sarcasm) he was put off the idea...

Edited by Freddy Kruger
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103584-ahoy-hoy-noobie/#findComment-1905017
Share on other sites

gaffa on the forums has a sweet little RB25DE powered 4 Door R32 GTS25 (well technically it started its life as an GTE). Its a great car for daily driving, and goes a little better than an RB20DE. Personally if I was limited to an N/A on a budget, this would be my solution... its got enough power to keep you happy till you're off your P's and 4 door skylines are gaining street cred for being superstar drift cars :P

I used to have an R32 GTS (RB20DE), with stainless mandrel bent extractors, exhaust, etc. Used to sound great (for some reason everyone thought it was a turbo). Again, great car for daily driving, and I even took it out to a couple of motorkhana days and had some fun in it. Even beat a couple of turbo R33's in some timed events :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103584-ahoy-hoy-noobie/#findComment-1905153
Share on other sites

Just throw a bowl of this in the back.

post-18125-1138426024.jpg

Note that I am not laughing  :P

And as far as the V6 commo vs. the RB20DE R32, I think the Commodore would win.  But let's not turn this into another vs. thread!

hahaha ok ok. i was just curious it's not like i'm getting it for dragging or anything, there's too many cops down where i live anyway lol. as long as it's a fun and enjoyable car to drive and i can have a bit of fun with it (a powerslide everynow and then :) )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103584-ahoy-hoy-noobie/#findComment-1905212
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
×
×
  • Create New...