Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy,

Well when i was at the shops nearly two weeks ago now i went to open my boot and the key snapped off in the lock as i turned it!!

Uh-oh!! :D

So my question is, has this happened to anyone else before and how do you suggest i get the rest of the key out of the lock?!

lol i was having the worst time that day, so it was the cherry on the cake. I was not happy - haha. Its a r33 and the boot button inside the car doesn't open the boot at the moment (unsure why), so that poses another hurdle too...

Thanks for any help,

Dave.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103816-key-snapped-off/
Share on other sites

possibly a really strong magnet? Like the one off a car speaker or the magnets out of a hard drive. Pretty damn strong, but I dunno if it'll be enough.

Otherwise more drastic action may be required. I dunno if a locksmith can pick it, but i'd bet they've pulled broken bits of key out of locks before. Give a reputable one a call.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103816-key-snapped-off/#findComment-1908091
Share on other sites

Had a similar problem when some little POS (sorry, mother's darling) tried to steal my Z; the Jaycar In-car alarm must have gone off just as he started to insert a key in the ignition. Must have scared the crap out of him, because the key snapped off in the switch. Had to remove the ignition and take it to a locksmith who was able to pull it all apart and retrieve said key.

The boot release probably doesn't work because the "switch" in the boot is set to "valet mode" (prevents the remote opening the boot, but still lets the key open it).

A locksmith might be able to pick the lock. Otherwise, you may need to pull the back seat out to access the latch from inside.

Have fun!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103816-key-snapped-off/#findComment-1908222
Share on other sites

Magnet is unlikely because its not ferrous - looks like brass from the broken edges of my key which is ready to break as well.

Used it in the boot as well and felt it bend when turning it.

I use it VERY carefully at moment - where can I get a new one BEFORE it breaks??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103816-key-snapped-off/#findComment-1908541
Share on other sites

Just go to a local key cutter (locksmith or one of those bootmaker/engraver shops) and get another one cut. trust me, its a hassle otherwise!!!

As with the magnet, yeah i was sure if the key was magnetic or not. Only one way to find out i say!! Remember there are another 2 metals that are non-ferrous that are still magnetic :P Nickel and cobalt. Maybe the key has enough of that in it to stick to my big mother magnet!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103816-key-snapped-off/#findComment-1908572
Share on other sites

yikes... my other suggestion was removing the back seat, as someone said above.

There is a middle section of steel behind the seat that can be unbolted. You prolly can't climb through, but you might be able to get a coat-hanger onto the boot latch or something.

Best bet is probably with the locksmith... they usually have fine tweezer-like things that can go in and pull the key out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103816-key-snapped-off/#findComment-1908989
Share on other sites

Hmmm... That's really scary....runs off to check key for cracks now. phew... anyways,

You may be able to remove the key. Try and get a few straightened paper clips and try and grab one of the edges of the key. I don't know if this is possible or not, but it might be owrth a try.

If not, then just remove the back seats, the take out the metal plate. This will allow you access to the boot. If you have a kid, they'll come in handy. Push them through the little hole and get them to flick the switch so you can open the boot via the lever. Removing the lock barrel is easy. then you can take it to the locksmith...

PS: i've heard of broken locks and stuff like that so many times on sau, that I reckon it's pretty important to hvae the lever working. When you get it opening again, flick the switch asap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103816-key-snapped-off/#findComment-1909169
Share on other sites

poor bastard, good luck with it :wacko:

Heh', thanks :ban:

Yeah ill try those options listed above.

Thanks for the kid idea too, i'd doubt id be able to fit through. Damn skylines only made for lil' japanese people :lol:

I'll let you know what happens, and hopefully the easiest way to fix the problem if anyone else is unlucky enough to have this happen too! I guess you could say im lucky as it didnt snap off in the ignition at least!!

-Dave.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103816-key-snapped-off/#findComment-1910837
Share on other sites

My key snapped off in the ignition. i thought i was farked, but i pushed the spare key into the barrel iand it started.

I dunno where the other half of the key ended up, but its still in there. I have been driving it for like 6 months now..no probs yet....

*mental note...get spare key cut* :ban:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103816-key-snapped-off/#findComment-1911042
Share on other sites

yeah the boot relese thing doesnt work because on the back of the boot relese in the boot u can switch it up or down to make it work or to prevent it from being able to open from in the car....

try leaving the cover of the key hole open and redlining?? if u car has the balls it will spit the key out :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103816-key-snapped-off/#findComment-1913503
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got the gearbox in and the front drive shafts.
    • Hi There I went through a rabbit hole of reading about Xenon headlights and the ADR regulations for having them installed. As people have been defected by running factory xenon I was researching in ways to make them compliant. Everyone always say needs to be self leveling and have washer installed, which I don't necessarily agree with. For this argument I'm using R34 as reference as I'm more aware on the construction of the headlight compared to the R33 Xenon, which may still be the exact same case.   For the self leveling clause taken from ADR 13 - Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles As you can see the bold text "these manually adjustable devices from driver seats" are fine to use. As Series 1 Xenon model headlights do have a 4 level adjuster on the right near the ignition (however not series 2) then these model are consider compliant in that argument.   For the Self Cleaning aspect of this argument clause taken from ADR 13 - Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles Now i can understand the argument that Xenon will need a washer as they are over 2000 lumens, but I clicked on the 12 at the end of that sentence and it takes me to the end notes which states R34 for headlight lenses are plastic, not sure if PL is mark as I don't currently have my skyline to confirm that marking is there. But could you not technically get a lenses with the PL marking on it and then get away with the argument that you need a washer. I went through a quick read of the adr and might have missed something else that may cause them to be non-complaint.    But wouldn't these technically be complaint headlights   Would love to hear other people input on this and shed some light   Edit In regard to the the washer portion I might be mistaken ADR 45 (which I believe is Regulation NO.45) states 12 cd (candela) I dont understand that portion in regarding to calculating the candela if anyone can shed some light. Otherwise I guess throw in a washer for the headlight and you definitely comply.
    • Took it to all Japan day, flogged the hell out of it and took it all, am a very very happy man  don’t know how that ended up in Greg’s thread before
    • Hey Nismo, any chance in the world you still have these seats?
    • I'd say closer to OG GTX3582R, just smaller trim - so 59mm inducer/82mm exducer as opposed to 62/82 for the first gen GTX3582R. Yeah EFRs were boss, the EFR8474 is still an absolute beast and it perplexes me that people still go to things like Turbosmart/Garrett etc when the results people are getting with those are pretty unremarkable compared to what you could get with a turbo available well before those options came out.  DriftSquid (I think) "upgraded" from an EFR9174 to a Turbosmart turbo and promised a comparison video - and kinda shuffled awkwardly and did a bit of diversion from the fact that they didn't get any improvement going to the currently massively hyped brand of turbo from a turbo that was a bit of a frankenstein that had been well superceded in it's own range before the Turbosmart unit he put on there even came out. I suspect the EFR would outperform most Xonas for what a lot of less-insane RB owners would go for, in the 400-600kw range but the Xonas are looking hard to beat up to maybe in the mid 700kw range at this stage- basically where EFRs don't really reach, and before the Precision turbos take over.  What the Xonas do well in the "EFR range" is be easier to package etc, and work very well if a divided housing doesn't suit your application.  
×
×
  • Create New...