Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

i just recently bought an r34 gtt and theres seems to be somehting wrong with the Dash...

sometimes the TCC, SLIP, and engine symbols come on...

does any other gtt out there have the same problem???

if so did you ever get it fix....

nothing is wrong with the car.. just the symbols pop up and its very annoying.....

i was thinking about taking the lights our for the symbols....

any help would be great...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103835-r34-gtt-speedo-dash-problem/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

How do you know nothing is wrong with the car...that's what the warning symbols do..warn you!

Do a diagnostic check by pulling out the consult plug under the right hand side change pocket thingo. Turn the ignition to ON, short the two pins that are on the right hand top side of the plug on their own (for 2 seconds) remove the short and count the amount of times the check engine light flashes = error code.

Sounds like you've got a problem with the boost sensor or unplugged TCS servo motor

Is your car running fine?

I had that problem once after a service (changing the plugs). Car was absolutely fine though. The next time i started the car it went away. I then also resetted the ECU though just in case, no problems now.

I remember reading that those lights are usually a sign of coil pack failure. As 666Dan said, you need to find out from the error codes what the problem is.

However if the car is running fine, I am guessing its nothing and that itll prob go away.

Cheers

You need to do a search for error codes

If I recall correctly, 2 long flashes followed by 1 short one means 21

And 21 = iginition problems = usually coil packs?

I'd say give resetting ur ECU first to see if that clears any errors, and see whether the error pops up again.

Those lights would usually indicate something to do with the traction control or throttle position sensor. Check the plugs in that area are all firmly plugged in for a start.

Easy way to test if the TPS is adjusted right is using a consult cable but you could manually reset it if you know what you are doing.

mine had these similar lights come on intermittently some time ago...car was running fine...got it checked at mechanic with a scan tool..and it was a faulty O2 sensor...replaced tht..all good. Most reputable mechanics have the scan tool now so it would be much better to just bring it in if ur not too sure bout shorting things.

  • 3 weeks later...

This is definitely not a good thing if all the lights are going on... after my SAFC2 install, this was happening as well (intermitantly - maybe 1 time a week).

Car would run really crap and required a restart in order to get it good again!

Double checked all the wires from the SAFC2 and tucked the loom back very very neatly, problem solved. This was my solution, may not be yours!

I have had a problem with the hicas light coming on when its raining and the sytem goes dead. I refitted all the plugs and sprayed them with lanosol, fixed the problem for a year when it happened again I resprayed them and it worked straight away. I dont think this is your problem though, just a heads up on nissan looms.

I dont know where i would start on this problem anyway.........

Would reseting the ECU effect the settings on the SAFCII?

I dont know anything about the wiring on the SAFCII so id be lost on this one.

Guess ill just follow the wires back and check all i can.

ahehaehahehaehahe

i still have this problem...

i tried to restart the ECU but it didnt work....

it normally comes on when it just starts to get warm, usally when the water temp goes up.....

i did a diagnostic Check when i brought it to the machanics and he scanned it and it read's 21

Ignition signal circuit - No consecutive ignition signal while the engine is running <-------- WTF????

the machanic dosent seem to have a clue either.... so as i have check im going to bowwor a friends coil pack to see if it the problem... or im going to do a service this week anyways so sparkie will be changed so i hope everything will be fix from there onwards.....

yeah sure i will let you know of the outcome...

it dosent really effect the performance much but i cant tell theres somthing wrong with it....

like for eg it takes more time to boost well not that long but compared to what it was before...

and when i change gears when i let go of the clutch its like a sudden jerk!!!

i dunnoo maybe its be or my heads plaing games....

r32_Gts4

yeah you cant resett the ecu urself really easy...

just take out the negative from your batt...

turn on you lights, high beam and all

then let it sit for 30 mins and then put the Negative back and then there you go its resstted...

but didnt work for me... well it did for like 1 or 2 hours it didnt come back then after it came back again.

Edited by ZERO

ok i had a full engine services on the weekend...

such as oil, and sparkies

anyways... the problem still comes up and its pissing me off... cause i knoe i have to spend $700 on coil pack when it could go towards to something else.

anyways im going to check if it coil packs and i will then again let you know it the problem still continues....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm at the point of seriously starting a project to build and Arduino/mc (of some sort) based multigauge to go in the console where triple gauges normally sit. I have found a screen of the right dimensions. I would need to 3D print a bezel/housing to make it mount up pretty. That's doable. I would need to come up with interfacing circuitry for the EGT thermocouple. I'm sure there will be examples of that into Arduino out there somewhere. Ditto with characterising the output of the existing boost gauge's MAP sensor and the oil T gauge's thermistor. And then, because it is a screen, it can be controllable, so it can show more than the 3 gauges I currently have. So I can come up with a list of other things I want to be able to show on it that can be reasonably easily handled via an Arduino's inputs. I do not need this project. But the stepper gauges I'm using are giving me grief. It's time to come kicking and screaming into the 21st century.
    • Would you really prefer pillar gauges over something like this? https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-067010-haltech-ic-7-digital-dash-kit/ Or if you can spend more, this? https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-068000-haltech-uc-10/ I could write a thesis about how much better a modern dash is compared to a series of gauges. 
    • People think it's a waste of space, ugly, etc, generally associate "emissions control equipment" with "bad". These OBD1 vacuum-only systems I'm not a huge fan because I think they don't go far enough. They're wasting some of the fuel captured because they start purging as soon as the engine pulls vacuum. Later OBD1/OBD2 they put an electric purge valve on them to vent only when closed loop is active so the ECU will trim some fuel out. Even later OBD2 with zero evaporative loss the tank is 100% sealed from atmosphere until you run the engine or press the refuel door release. The tank has to take much higher vacuum/pressure spec but you never deal with saturating the charcoal canister and losing some fuel that way. The fuel also lasts as long as it would in a 100% airtight container which is nice when you're dealing with modern E10 pump gas.
    • If your luck is anything like mine, what happens is in the process of pulling hoses to get access to the one leak you create many more leaks because every o-ring was on the verge of failing and the strain of pulling it apart caused it to fail. Sometimes life is simple, sometimes you pay twice trying to save once. For the R33 you can still get most AC components from Nissan, I use nissan epc data or amayama to look up the part numbers and then search for the cheapest/most practical way of sourcing from there.
    • The dirty secret is there is nothing recyclable about the plastic bag or old plastic bottles either. Our local trash collection explicitly calls it out as hazmat in both cases. Oil-soaked rags + paper towels too. Oil-soaked cardboard is also not recyclable. The most common case of oil-soaked paper like that is pizza boxes, which are explicitly compost-only from the oil. To my knowledge hazmat oil contaminated plastic the only solution is either landfill or "thermal recycling". Most plastics in my experience there is slow permeation of the oil it's holding into the container so it's very challenging to get it 100% clean.
×
×
  • Create New...