Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest ass_man

g'day guys. just needed some help.. im currently looking to buy a r33 skyine.. im confused..

whats the difference with the hr33 and the ecr33. i know one is series 1 and the other is the second series.

im hoping to get one gst-t and buy a r33 gtr half cut.. and do a conversion.. has anyone done this and is it possible.. does anyone know a est price on it.

cheers guys :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103881-skylines/
Share on other sites

there was an R33 GTST in the for sale section with an RB26DETT conversion for around $20k i think.

HR33 has RB20E engine (can be sedan OR coupe afaik as some 2 doors came with this engine)

And ECR33 has RB25 series engine, and can be turbo (sedan + coupe) or non-turbo (type-s coupe).

Correct me if I'm wrong.

If you are looking on carsales this can be confusing as many sellers seem to put down the wrong model designation.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103881-skylines/#findComment-1910595
Share on other sites

H = 2.0L

E = 2.5L

B = 2.6L

C = HICAS (optional on both H and E R33's)

the rest you can figure out.

There's no chassis differences between S1 and S2 R33's. Both HR33's and ER33's came in 2 and 4 door variants.

R33's came with RB20E (HR33's), RB25DE, and RB25DET engines (ER33's). RB20E's make a staggering 80 something kw at the fly... so they're not eligible for import into australia anymore due to them not meeting power to weight ratio requirements (not that anyone ever misses em). A couple of em did sneak into the country under the old CPA scheme though. Type M's and Type S's are just packages of optional extras that were available to respective models.

Also, save yourself the money and troubles. If you want a GTR, buy a GTR, they're bloody cheap these days anyways, and they'll only get cheaper in the future when you're ready to upgrade.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103881-skylines/#findComment-1910651
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Yes but GTS-t's and GTR's are very different, Rwd/4wd single turbo/twin turbo, if your a drifter the GTR is not for you. The RB26 swap into a R33 GTS isn't cost effective or nessesary put that money into the RB25 its a great engine too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103881-skylines/#findComment-3577256
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...