Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest ass_man

g'day guys. just needed some help.. im currently looking to buy a r33 skyine.. im confused..

whats the difference with the hr33 and the ecr33. i know one is series 1 and the other is the second series.

im hoping to get one gst-t and buy a r33 gtr half cut.. and do a conversion.. has anyone done this and is it possible.. does anyone know a est price on it.

cheers guys :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103881-skylines/
Share on other sites

there was an R33 GTST in the for sale section with an RB26DETT conversion for around $20k i think.

HR33 has RB20E engine (can be sedan OR coupe afaik as some 2 doors came with this engine)

And ECR33 has RB25 series engine, and can be turbo (sedan + coupe) or non-turbo (type-s coupe).

Correct me if I'm wrong.

If you are looking on carsales this can be confusing as many sellers seem to put down the wrong model designation.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103881-skylines/#findComment-1910595
Share on other sites

H = 2.0L

E = 2.5L

B = 2.6L

C = HICAS (optional on both H and E R33's)

the rest you can figure out.

There's no chassis differences between S1 and S2 R33's. Both HR33's and ER33's came in 2 and 4 door variants.

R33's came with RB20E (HR33's), RB25DE, and RB25DET engines (ER33's). RB20E's make a staggering 80 something kw at the fly... so they're not eligible for import into australia anymore due to them not meeting power to weight ratio requirements (not that anyone ever misses em). A couple of em did sneak into the country under the old CPA scheme though. Type M's and Type S's are just packages of optional extras that were available to respective models.

Also, save yourself the money and troubles. If you want a GTR, buy a GTR, they're bloody cheap these days anyways, and they'll only get cheaper in the future when you're ready to upgrade.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103881-skylines/#findComment-1910651
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Yes but GTS-t's and GTR's are very different, Rwd/4wd single turbo/twin turbo, if your a drifter the GTR is not for you. The RB26 swap into a R33 GTS isn't cost effective or nessesary put that money into the RB25 its a great engine too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103881-skylines/#findComment-3577256
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which model Maxima? This is good knowledge to have.
    • I'm with GTS, that's not an actual overheat issue. That's an electrical issue.
    • So, it's clearly an electrical problem. Either with the gauge itself, or the sender. It appears to be voltage sensitive (ie, alternator output affects the reading.
    • Yes, at this stage of SAU threads, I  automatically assume that anyone here knows that everything depends on each and every setup and its choice of parts and what an individual wants from the setup. I think your misunderstanding what I've said, I'm not saying your curve will move to the right.. I'm stating the opposite; that my setup has a much larger turbo than my last one, my current exhaust manifold runners are 2-3x longer than the last one, the intercooler is longer and thicker (hks 103mm thick), the itbs are now oversized from 45mm up to 49mm, and the plenum is now a larger Nismo plenum that's been port matched. As a result, I'm making more power, torque and boost 1000rpm earlier than my last setup. My curve moved left, in a big way. You guys with 800-1000+hp turbos should be considering hks v-cam or the other Japanese company Sakura who makes RB25 Neo vct adaptor kits for RB26's. they all make more power / boost / torque far earlier and higher peak numbers. Dahtone Racing modifies the Hks v-cam systems to his own specs and he also developed the worlds first and best dbw individual throttle body kits, to complement his V-cam. Every single car is 800-1200+hp and they all produce huge gains in response and peak power. 
    • I have a 2008 Skyline 370gt with about 160,000 km on the clock currently. A while ago, I noticed the temp gauge would start climbing but it comes down when I give it some throttle. I took it into the shops. The technicians comments are transcripted below. Reported they couldn't find anything wrong with the vehicle mechanically and they pressure tested the cooling system. Funnily enough, the technician commented that the temperature dropped back down when the car is stationary but this is when I'd notice the temp gauge to be climbing. Just wondering if anyone else experienced anything similar to enlighten me? Cos at the onset, the temps were going up one tick and then comes back down when I step on it. Now, the temps are climbing all the way to the top of the gauge, and it's making me very nervous lol. It also doesn't come down to the neutral position anymore. PS I do have a small exhaust leak near the drivers side caused by when I got f**ked by a really steep driveway at a mall I never visited before. Not sure if this would affect the sensor. Technician comments: Check and verify Fan/Cooling system - ALL OK max 106*C and fans operating at 100% Cools down right away. Checked Fan Operation - 55%@101*C, 85% @ 104*C and 100% @ 105*C Vehicle did not exceed these temperatures with max load. Temperature recovered back to 99*C after fan operation while vehicle Stationary.
×
×
  • Create New...