Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For sale: 1989 Skyline R32 4 door gts-t

Asking Price: $14,900

Killometer's: original 62,000kms

Manual or Automatic transmission: Manual

Engine Type: RB25DET original 33,000kms

Modifications: R33 GTR Purple respray, near new Trust TD06 Turbo, Trust racing manifold and external Gate, Trust Intercooler kit, Trust type R BOV, AP Twin plate clutch, NISMO 2 way, JIC coilovers, R32 GTR wheels, 2 extra 740cc injectors, Greddy Rebic 3 controller, R33 GTR fuel pump, Field electronic boost controller, Nardi 360mm wheel, 3 inch exhaust, brand new earls oil cooler and alarm fitted last week.

Complianced: Yes SA rego. First registered late December 2005. rego till end march 2006

Road Worth Certificate: n/a

Crash History: No Accident History - Inspection Welcome

Other Comment's about the vehicle: potential for very quick car, need a dyno tune to tune boost and rebic 3. Car has been driven for approx 1,000 kms since first registered and only run at 0.6 bar.

Mechanically the car is exceptional with the exception of the clutch, its a little noisy. the body in general and undercarrage is great as the car has original 62,000kms however the respray to GTR purple has a few blemishes. undercarrage is very clean.

Air con works so good!

Contact detail's Ben - 0413 299 477

For further details see add on car sales - to be updated

Orignial prestige motorsport add (note some parts have changed) - http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=1528

post-22191-1138699488.jpg

post-22191-1138699766.jpg

post-22191-1138700239.jpg

post-22191-1138701579.jpg

Edited by kasm

hi just wondering if the suspension is adjustable, nd with the clutch does it need a new 1 coz i know sum twin plates r noisy just wanna find out hehe. im going 4 a loan this wk so im semi keen dont wana stuff u round nd say yea im interested just wanna find out sum more info

thanks carter

Hi yes the suspension is adjustable JIC coilovers, also have a standard set of suspension. yes the clutch does screatch when you are engaging it but once you have your foot off it is fine and does not slip. apparently twin plates are noisy but the noise does get annoying driving around in traffic!

if you dont like the clutch im guessing it could be sold for almost the cost of a good single plate depending on condition when it comes out.

maybe the best thing is to come and have a look.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
    • Does exhaust manifold get hot as turno exhuast side? I have a turbo cover to managr heat in the engine bay but  nothing is covering the exhaust manifold before turbo   i know as turbo does compress air, the temp does go up however does that mean exhaust manifold would be as hot?
    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
×
×
  • Create New...