Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy r34 owners,

i'm wanting to sell my cars for a newer skyline. I'm thinking of skipping the 33 and go straight for a 34 but obviously cant afford the gtr but i wouldnt buy a gtt unless i could get it up to about 500-600hp. and afford too as well. Obviously any car can get that power figure with the right amount of money.

After purchasing the 34 i'd prob have about 10k to put into the engine.

Just wondering if there is anyone out there getting this kind of power from there r34 and how hard it was.

Otherwise i'll just wait a couple of years and buy a 34gtr.

Am just hoping there is someone out there who has done this and can give me a ball park figure.

Or if you haven't necessariy done this but have the know how and could shed some light.

thankyou

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103955-r34-gtt-with-serious-power/
Share on other sites

The problem is (at 500 bhp) you have chosen a power output target that is 50 bhp more than almost everything in the RB25 will handle. So a 750 bhp target wouldn't cost anymore, all the same stuff would have to be upgraded.

Achieving 450 bhp on $10k is just about possible, if you do some of the work yourself and avoid retail prices. But you will need to add to that some suspension and wheel/tyre upgrades to make use of that power. Otherwise it will be a waste of time and money as the power will be unuseable.

:ban: cheers :)

lol 10k aint enough for reliable 500-600hp i spent more than that on my 34

it wasnt hard just time consuming and there's so much to pick from to get to that goal of 500hp.

at the end of the day u have to ask yourself what are u going to use it for or what are u tryin to achieve with a 500-600hp car...?

You want a real challenge?  Buy a R34 with Auto transmission then try get 300+rwkw 

Much harder than turning a Manual into the same power :P

easy just throw your check book at it!

get a beefed up auto gearbox + ecu!

bbwwwaaahhh

with adam seems to be doing well with only 0.9bar and still plenty left in the turbo!

In a week's time I shall be close to Adam... but it's not as simple as just throwing a cheque book at it. It's quite tricky as not many of the normal items / tricks work!!!

ECU is perhaps the biggest problem... there isn't one that does everything!

In a week's time I shall be close to Adam... but it's not as simple as just throwing a cheque book at it.  It's quite tricky as not many of the normal items / tricks work!!!

ECU is perhaps the biggest problem...  there isn't one that does everything!

good stuff another r34 with some decent power....wooohhoooo ! well im counting 3 now!

mmm will motec support auto...?

I've contacted Motec before; their M800 model does work on the R34, but only if you hook it up in "piggy back" not stand alone.

For the outrageous $2.5k+ unit, just seems a little over the top for a piggy back ECU.

Never fear though, some new stuff being developed... 1) Bikirom from AUS and 2) Apex'i New Piggy Back ECU

Hopefully these will provide the answers, otherwise it's rather limited as to what can happen without getting ripped off!

Anyone can throw money to make something work; it's more about finding smart ways around things I think - otherwise woudln't we all just convert to manual? :P

Haha, how much of this upgrade and all future upgrades do you think I will document Eric...

Getting to 200 was the easy part, the rest is for me to know, my mechanic to know, and my tuner to know :P

just checking to see if it would be a viable option, guess not. Well i want more power and a newer car as well. I like r34's but i don't think i would be happy with spending shit loads of cash and only getting to 400hp, which is not much more than what i have now.

i guess i can't have a newer car and more power. one or the other then. maybe sell the gtst and spend it all on the gtr but i probably wont eva see that money again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Strength. And on the early RB26, full engagement of the pump drive.
    • I really don't understand the point of aftermarket oil pumps if your particular engine doesn't need more oil pressure. As far as I can make sense of it the problem seems to be cavitation from sucking air, maybe the pump gear design with how it interfaces with the OEM crank, and maybe the backing plate screws wanting to loosen themselves. How does flowing more oil fix these issues?
    • More photos are up, and the price has been dropped to $16,000. It's just had a service and a new 12V battery, too.
    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
×
×
  • Create New...