Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a curiosity question (would ask mechanic but he is on holidays)...

If I am fitting a dual entry fuel rail, and the pump setup includes a Bosch 040 in tank and two external 044's, how are they plumbed up to the rail? One line running from each 044 to each end of the fuel rail and relief from the middle?

Are there any better or alternative ways of doing this?

Thanks :ban:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103975-fuel-rail-and-fuel-pumps/
Share on other sites

Just a curiosity question (would ask mechanic but he is on holidays)...

If I am fitting a dual entry fuel rail, and the pump setup includes a Bosch 040 in tank and two external 044's, how are they plumbed up to the rail? One line running from each 044 to each end of the fuel rail and relief from the middle?

Are there any better or alternative ways of doing this?

Thanks :)

At the risk of asking a stupid question (There are no stupid questions, only stupid people :ban: ) why do you want to fit up two feeds to the fuel rail? When you use pumps in parallel (other than positive displacement pumps) you get a very small gain in flow for a huge gain in cost/power consumption etc.

Mostly fuel setup are as in the photo - with two pumps picking up from the tank & pumping to another small tank which is then always full. The third pump picks up from there & keeps the fuel rail pressurisedl at all times.

post-5134-1138680947.jpg

Edited by djr81

Hi,

Thats why I am asking, as im not sure how it works. Currently there is the standard GTR pump in tank lifting to a surge tank, with a single 044 from the surge tank to the standard fuel rail.

Have since bought a HKS dual entry fuel rail and some pumps, my thinking was the 040 in tank pumping to the surge tank and the twin 044's pumping from the surge tank. Just not quite sure how they connect up to the fuel rail... do you join the two feeds together then split them again and feed it in to each end of the rail, do you keep them seperate from the 044's into each end of the rail?

Just trying to learn a bit, as for actual fitting, thats what I am paying the mechanic for :ban:

do not go too overboard with the fuel unless it is an all out race/drag car as otherwise you will find you are pumping a lot of fuel around unnessesarily. this has the negative effect of heating the fuel (as it passes through the rail/engine bay) and eventually you have a whole tank full of hot fuel. which can hurt performance.

if it was me i would join the two pumps to a common line (possibly with a check valve after the outlet of each pump) then when that single line gets to the engine bay you split it in two and run a feed at each end and the reg/return from the middle. will you really need 3 044 pumps though? what size injectors are we talking about?

Injectors are currently 700cc, probably need to go up in size as they will be too small.

Any other suggestions on pumping the fuel around for this power level? Bits and pieces I have to work with are: standard fuel rail, bosch 040, two bosch 044's, surge tank, hks twin entry fuel rail, standard fpr, sard fpr (the big RJ one).

i don't think you will need that much pumping power to supply 700cc injectors. surge tank is definately a good idea (and make a large one if you are going to be doing extended WOT driving). sard fuel reg is a good idea too, and i really like the idea of twin feed rails as i'm sure you get much more even distribution of fuel throughout the 6 ports. some larger fuel lines could be a good idea too. i would think you could just use the GTR pump to fill the surge tank then use a single 044 to pump fuel to the engine bay then have a split with the two lines heading to each end of the rail, run the feed for the reg off the middle and return the fuel from the reg to the surge tank.

The numbers tell the story.............

700 cc's X 6 = 4.2 litres per minute = 252 litres per hour

At 13.8 volts a single 044 will move 330 litres per hour at 73.5 PSI

So it will support 6 X 900 cc injectors at 2.4 bar boost with standard fuel pressure (36-38 psi)

So using 2 X 044's would lead to excessive fuel flow, even at 100% injector duty cycle. As BB quite rightly points out, that means hot fuel going around and around for no good reason.

:P cheers :D

cool, i might just do this with my twin entry rail, means i can run the Reg off the middle outlet.

Sydneykid YOU are a wealth of knowledge!

it;s the only smart way to run a twin entry rail. as far as i know that is the main advantage of a twin entry - more even flow to all injectors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
×
×
  • Create New...