Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 193
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

My #6 rod decided it would be funny to punch a hole in my block and then use the oil to set the car on fire.

Thats not funny at all..... Infact broken rod makes ross cry :)

is anything salvageable / extent of fire?

will there be a revival of bluey?

that is no good at all mate. it's the hateful thoughts of all the porsche drivers you've passed over the years I reckon. Is the car salvageable, or comepletely toasted?

Considering the size of the fire and the length of time it took to get it out (we had to use 5 fire extinguishers to get it out) there is suprisingly not that much fire damage - that we know of so far. Things like the steering rack boots and front gaurd liners are toast but otherwise it doesn't seem too bad.

So now we'll just have to pull the engine down and keep our fingers crossed that its really just #6 thats damaged and the rest is salvagable in the engine.

On way or the other the Dragon will breath again it's just a matter of when which is a matter of $$$. LOL

But I really want the car going for the NSW trip in November. I'll be gutted if I can't have the car ready for that trip.

Bugger me!! Went looking for Dutton info, thought I'd drop in here and it's all happening.

You just have to try for the win with everything Snowy. Best BBQ. Best under bonnet BBQ. Surely Roy and I didn't set the posts that high?

Jokes aside, damn sorry to hear it.

Hey Bris, for a couple of beers I "may" have some GTR32 rims with good semi-comp rubber for broad minded persontin' at Dutton. Call if you need them. Also have 17's but they have the somewhat worn wet compound so not good for long distance.

Snowy I've been keeping watch and there is the odd block, crank (in need of resize), rods and head about which would be a cheaper starting point for rebuild than a whole engine. Just hope you can salvage most of it.

well after anoth all nighter and tryign to back to back last night with no sleep, i droppred the car off the jack without putting the rins back on the front. At that point i decided i needed sleep, oh, also ran the brasker reservoir dry when bleeding brakes. Need sleep badly

4th attempt at rego today ;)

no worries big boy. hard corey can't see the fans without a fancy seat.

i hope you are nearly there mate.

snowy, that really blows mate. sounds very likely that block=gone, crank=gone, $$$=gone. ;)

Things like that really show you how important a good fire extinguisher is. after seeing how weak sauce most of the 1kg dry powder ones people use are, i now use the BFI one which put's out 4 times as much as all the others i've seen. definately put it on your buy list after the rebuild.

Anyone know what the results are? Who won?

I was just speaking to a friend of mine who was running a GTR on the weekend, ended up pulling the fastest time at Sandown. Take that Porches, Lambo's etc.

I only just got to see the QLD Dutton TV coverage yesterday. its a bit of a 'khana fest. I'd be wanting more speed events (and not 400m drags or 1000m time trials) considering the entry money!

are the ones down south the same sort of thing- lots of khanas, and the occassional race track thrown in here and there? do they close any road sections?

as someone with a background in forest rally, I think its a bit cheeky calling Dutton a "Rally"!

Its a lot of money to a guy like me. But i really enjoyed it. Woudl i do it again. Hmm i dont think so unless i somehow find myself in the position where i have had fun with my car all year and nothing needs repairing for Dutton. Its the new rotors, pads, fluids, timing belt/water pump, idler bearings, diff etc that i needed for Dutton that made it so expensive for me. I didnt even have time to fit some of the gear, and i needed the diff come the skidpan :)

Still i think i showed that i need to learn how to use a hand brake :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...