Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Smaller cars are definately more agile than a larger car - everything else being equal. I find my 'line, with swaybars and decent coilovers is quite nimble but I am sure a smaller car would kill it on really tight corners, just due to being less likely to oversteer - purely hypothetical though.

Steve

Thanks... after being in the MR2 for 6 years I'm kinda used to it. Dont want to move up to a Skyline and feel like I'm in a bulldozer.

It's not all about performance but more like the looks, reliability, and handling..... well maybe not performance but performance potential.

Take the MR2 it could go in for a supercharged engine swap but having a semi leadfoot I'll be collecting tickets in no time.

Guest Nismo_Freak

I hear that... or a S14 would be nice as well. If you want good Nissan RWD handling then get a S14. A GTST wont be able to compair with the same mods. Mostly because if you get down to the basics they are nearly the same car. Just the inline 6 weighs a considerable amount more and has the weight pushed farther forward than the SR20. This makes the car understeer. You can sort some of this out by tuning dampers and sways but in the end your still having that much hurt the performance. The S14 on the other hand has less stock output, less torque, and wont share the prestige of a Skyline. Skyline is a better drag car... I'd take the S14 as a track car. Apart from inter-nissan battles I'd take either of them against any other car. I can think of only a few vehicles that would compair to the power and handling of a GTR. And they all cost more than the GTR, apart from GTOs and Supras. NSX, Z06, Cobra R, Ferraris, Lotus', etc.

i have an aw11sc, it's in my avatar.

they rock and i think you'd have a hard time comparing it to any other 'affordable' car on the road :D but i'm biased as. so if your willing to compromise then yeah get a nissan! haha just don't blame me. althought if i was spending >25k i'd be looking for a schmick sw20.

*puts on flame suit*

seeya

*puts away flame thrower*

I am planning to keep the AW11. But dont have the heart to have that converted to an SC. When I got it 6 years ago it only had 52,000 km on the clock for a 1987 model. It now has 113,000 and counting.

Reason for the R33 is that I might need the extra seating capacity and the air conditioning.

I took a r33 gtst out for a spin yesterday and wasnt all that impressed. Maybe it was because the car was in a severe need of a tuneup or service. Firstly the exhaust was loud at idle and while driving within the posted speed limits. Had me reaching for panadols after 10 mins. And I think the BOV wasnt set right because it kept venting even when changing gears around the 2000-3000rpm mark. Is this normal? One last thing I noticed was that while accelerating to get onto the freeway the car hesitated/stumbled at around the 4000rpm. Is this right or was it just the boost cutting in?

Guest Nismo_Freak

Sounds like the spark plugs arent gapped correctly. The dump valve will make a noise at 2000-3000. It shouldnt be loud unless you have built boost. Some valves like the Blitz and HKS feature twin valves (one small, one large) that vent low boost pressures. If the exhaust is loud I'd suspect poor timing, but I've never heard the R33 much less seen one in real life so its hard for me to tell you.

I know this response is awfully slow, but just stumbled across it and though I could ad something constructive.

I currently own an SW20 (Aust) and an R33 GTR, and I love them both. Completely different to drive but very enjoyable in their own way. Never driven a GTS-T but the GTR feels nothing like it's 1600kg wieght would suggest. I'd imagine the GTS would be much the same.

Can't go far wrong, the MR is a great car, the Nissan also, the MR harder to drive fast on the twisties but that makes for much enjoyment.

Hope this gives some insight.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
    • Hmm. I've gotten pretty good outcomes from talking to them about things that I've had go wrong or ideas for improvement. Have had a lot to say about the R32 FUCAs, and they have sent out some replacement parts for those, gratis, on a couple of occasions. Mind you, I have bought a couple hundreds of $ of replacement rod ends for them too!
    • I have a r34 sedan 1999 manual converted need some help with my speedometer it only reads upto 98km and then stops currently still running the auto cluster any easy fixes no speedo drive is connected yet, if someone has a video for wiring up the manual speedo sensor with the auto cluster please send through 
×
×
  • Create New...