Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, got a new o2 sensor today

what readings should it be getting on the pwrfc hc?

always reads between 0 and 1 volt, what sort of values should i see at crusing?

how can i tell if my new o2 sensor is making a difference?

can i at all?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104244-powerfc-hc-and-new-o2-sensor/
Share on other sites

AFAIK it should be constantly bouncing around when you're not in closed loop. And it should always remain between 0 and 1v.

If you put your boot right in, it'll jump up... but generally it'll move around like a cat in a washing machine.

ok, thats totally different from mine;

perhaps sr20s o2 sensors work differently from r33 ones!

what sort of fuel economy u get thunderbolt?

i did a few coasty runs with my new o2 sensor and it doesnt seem to be any better

ill give it a few tanks of petrol though before i start worrying

My fuel economy has always been fairly good until recently.

My o2 sensor would flick 0-1v roughly once every 3/4 of a second. ~350-380km's per tank driving it fairly lightly.

Prior was ~430km's with the 3ltr or prior with the rb20det 470km's per tank when fuel economy was what I consider good.

I Replaced o2 sensor, response was slightly quicker but still hung around the .8-.9v and 0.2v for longer than I liked, it still had crappy economy.

I ripped out the injectors replaced them with gtr cleaned items that flow within 1% of each other, trimmed fuel to 58.5%. Instantly fuel economy dropped down to 11.6l/100km's. It had a slight flat/dead spot just before boost was made, as boost began being made the o2 sensor would read 1v. :S

I had all the closed loop area's tuned to as close to 14.7:1 as possible. Just out of closed loop afr's were adjusted to 13.5:1.

Zero vacuum afr's are now 13:1, as boost is starting to be made it begins to drop down in to the 12:1's.

The base map was leaned off in the closed loop areas, just out of closed loop was richened up to achieve the 13.5:1, zero vacuum and on boost afr's were leaned off.

Torque feels like its up as it drops out of closed loop but just before it begins making boost.

Accelerating is pretty much always just out of closed loop but just before boost is made.

Fuel economy has dropped down to ~10.6L/100km's... yipeeeyaaayea... :)

woah

thats a lot of tweaking

im wondering what else can cause bad fuel economy

mines been pretty bad for a while;

ive changed the throttle body (i believe im using a ford 80ml one)

would that effect fuel economy?

any other tips i can try at home to increase fuel economy, just a little?

i seem to be locked into 300k/s tank regardless of booting it or cruising

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah - My key still does the chime thing. I followed the procedure but it didn't activate on the (identical) third set of keyfob that I had. I vaguely remember the alarm saying you can only pair two keys with it. Now that I've dug it up, it appears that you very much can pair keyfobs to the alarm system. (which are the fobs I use to unlock the car). I have successfully diverted the thread and can probably not use the OEM keyfob ever again unless I use the aftermarket alarm and attempt to pair the OEM keyfob to it. Which might just work, or not :D. I definitely used the nissan method and not the aftermarket alarm method.
    • What makes it worse is that Nissan made keys in the same style, for example R34 and Stagea, but they work at different frequencies or something like that. So they look the same but the remotes are not interchangeable. I learned that from some guy selling aftermarket blank keys.
    • Does your door chime work when you have the key in the lock and open the door? I've had that disabled because it's f**king annoying and it is one thing that messes with the pairing. Because now the car doesn't detect key in ignition anymore and the slide-key-in-and-out sequence does not trigger the pairing mode anymore. The service manual has a section on the various bits involved in doing the syncing. I presume it'll be similar between Stagea and R34.
    • Agree, but meh, I think is is based more on LOLS than actually apples to apples, like, who would have thunk a turbo 4 cylinder would not beat a NA 4 cylinder  I think with just basic N/A mods, like a exhaust and tune, it would be equal to the Mini in its current form, maybe I know my current 2.5 would "chop the mini" as the midrange now has a night and day difference in power delivery compared to the tuned 2.0, by around 20kwatw and 30nm from around 2k rpm "ish"....... I'm kinda hoping that they do a N/A build, either with the MZR 2.0 or with whatever they decide to use If I recall correctly they did talk about K swapping one a while ago
    • Can't see that being a thing.
×
×
  • Create New...