Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For those people that are interested...a blockage in rear oil feed line caused the turbo failure in "twoogle". This is a common fault and we are currently producing a braided upgrade kit to rectify this problem occuring again.

A GT-RS upgrade is the way we are going and we will be able to compare 2530 vs GT-RS dyno graphs. This has been a hotly debated topic in the past and due to the fact no other changes are being made to the car will be a realistic comparison. Will post up dyno results when available.

Paul and Stacey

DiRTgarage

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

you just need practic

is a 4 hour job each way when you do it a few times

and i dont even know what im gdoing

Dont worry Pete....someone is trying to be cheeky....but your right...i quote 8hrs too. Nissan quote 12hrs.

Id like to sit and watch the 5hr R&R and see every bolt replaced and no leaks or fu(k up's. But who am i to question the master mechanic Mik....The guy who doesn't need practice cause he's SEEN someone do it fast. Given enough beers ive SEEN ugly chicks become hot too!

Edited by DiRTgarage
Dont worry Pete....someone is trying to be cheeky....but your right...i quote 8hrs too. Nissan quote 12hrs.

Id like to sit and watch the 5hr R&R and see every bolt replaced and no leaks or fu(k up's. But who am i to question the master mechanic Mik....The guy who doesn't need practice cause he's SEEN someone do it fast. Given enough beers ive seen ugly chicks become hot too!

Have you had a bit of practise Paul? Last I heard, it was 16 hours R&R for you. I would dig up the post, but I’m sure you have edited it, as all of your posts seem to be edited at some stage…

Yes, I have seen it done in 5 hours, by a guy at one of your favourite workshops. And there were no leaks and no ‘bolts’ left off…not that there are many to put back on. But yeah, it’s an 8 hours job allowing for a bit of contingency…definitely not 16 though!

Oh…and I’m no ‘master mechanic’ I didn’t spend 5 years busting my guts at uni to work on cars for a living, that’s for sure.

I have a tomei stroker kit in my engine but i don't tell anyone cause i can't run the times or make the power. I also constantly go on about how heavy my car is as an excuse for my poor ET's

really...well that is a revelation...I think that may be the only honest thing i think you have ever said.

For those people that are interested...a blockage in rear oil feed line caused the turbo failure in "twoogle". This is a common fault and we are currently producing a braided upgrade kit to rectify this problem occuring again.

  A GT-RS upgrade is the way we are going and we will be able to compare 2530 vs GT-RS dyno graphs. This has been a hotly debated topic in the past and due to the fact no other changes are being made to the car will be a realistic comparison. Will post up dyno results when available.

Paul and Stacey

DiRTgarage

paul can i ask would do you think was the cause of the blockage?

and can i ask the type of oil you were running at the time (if you dont want to post it pm please as i'm very interested) as when i worked in Engine Reconditioning industry we sent a number of oil sample for testing and discovered that one praticular oil brand had caused numerous engine failures.

I wish you the best with the GTRS turbos as you have done amazing well with the 2530's , i look forward to see the results between the two as i so nearly bought a set but was put of by the bad rep the coped at one stage and the awesome results i had gain from the garret gt2560r.

pete

ps 9sec low mounts (THATS THE SHIT)

paul can i ask would do you think was the cause of the blockage?

and can i ask the type of oil you were running at the time (if you dont want to post it pm please as i'm very interested) as when i worked in Engine Reconditioning industry we sent a number of oil sample for testing and discovered that one praticular oil brand had caused numerous engine failures.

I wish you the best with the GTRS turbos as you have done amazing well with the 2530's , i look forward to see the results between the two as i so nearly bought a set but was put of by the bad rep the coped at one stage and the awesome results i had gain from the garret gt2560r.

pete

ps 9sec low mounts (THATS THE SHIT)

Hi Pete,

After speaking to a few guys today in the industry it seems the standard design of the oil feeds aids this problem...its the feed which has the loop in it. A 3mm orifice inside the tube and the bending of this tube that is done on an upgrade (yes i may have contributed in the failure) makes the feed smaller in diameter are two factors involved. Also the oil that sits in the bottom of the loop on shut down gets exposed to a lot of heat (small volume of oil and extreme heat). The question im asking myself is "is this why std rear turbo's always fail"? is the heat and oil starvation to blame as much as the ceramic wheel?.

For years i was a Mobil 1 user...but the last year or so i use Castrol Formula R, and change oil and filter before every meet. Which means the oil would see 500klm tops before changing.

A larger orificed plumbing system in braided line will replace all water and oil feeds and drains with the upgrade (earls will make a killing out of me). I will design and produce the kits for sale after testing to help prevent future failures in other vehicles....how many ppl rip of the turbo's on an upgrade without checking these lines...i know i am guilty of this myself so i can say it would be a lot.

Target is 9's on the low-mounts and with the full interior being installed back in the car, a 9 sec pass will be awesome.

Hi Pete,

  After speaking to a few guys today in the industry it seems the standard design of the oil feeds aids this problem...its the feed which has the loop in it. A 3mm orifice inside the tube and the bending of this tube that is done on an upgrade (yes i may have contributed in the failure) makes the feed smaller in diameter are two factors involved. Also the oil that sits in the bottom of the loop on shut down gets exposed to a lot of heat (small volume of oil and extreme heat). The question im asking myself is "is this why std rear turbo's always fail"? is the heat and oil starvation to blame as much as the ceramic wheel?.

  For years i was a Mobil 1 user...but the last year or so i use Castrol Formula R, and change oil and filter before every meet. Which means the oil would see 500klm tops before changing.

  A larger orificed plumbing system in braided line will replace all water and oil feeds and drains with the upgrade (earls will make a killing out of me). I will design and produce the kits for sale after testing to help prevent future failures in other vehicles....how many ppl rip of the turbo's on an upgrade without checking these lines...i know i am guilty of this myself so i can say it would be a lot.

  Target is 9's on the low-mounts and with the full interior being installed back in the car, a 9 sec pass will be awesome.

Bel Garage have been using braided oil feeds on GTR's for years...it also makes R&R of turbos much easier...and yiu need all the help you can get...

Incidently, I checked my factory lines when I had them off and they were spottless.

Interesting to note that about the stock lines Paul.

It might help to know it cost me about $400 in braided and speedflow fittings with converting the 25t to tt. The fittings tend to be the killer but it was about $10 for straights from my local hose place (HIS Hose Somerton in Melb)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...