Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don it 1 at nicholson rd yale garden st rounder bowt

i was not going to fast 70kms but i had never experenced it before

back end went loose with no lose of traction so i slowed down a little

went home and changed the undies

i am considering removal aswel

james

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

on r32 its hydraulic from power steering fluid,on r33 pretty sure electronic,

pull the fuse out on r33 (hicas light will be on dash) that gets rid of it for free !

Edited by turbohectics
hahaah, im keen on a group buy, but im located in NZ?i need gettin rid of HICAS

Then there were 2.

33's are electric but you cant just pull the plug. The best way is by removing the entire rack and replacing it with a steal bar like the ones GTRGeoff (SkylineGeoff)makes.

Hey Geoff, your getting plenty of plugs here :O

Hi GMR33, sorry but I havn't been looking much, and tend to not try to "plug" my stuff by intruding on discussion. If people want them they soon find me.

In this case though I can offer some advice on HICAS, as I have 3 Skyline R33's to compare. R33GTS25tt (yes TT) without HICAS (my poor broken track car), R33GTS25t auto with HICAS and R33GTR with HICAS (soon to be without).

The HICAS is designed to induce understeer over 80kmh. Understeer is considered the safest response for numpty drivers. The problem though when racing/driving at or near the limit is that as you enter the corner on your line, the HICAS then turns the rear toward the corner causing understeer so you turn in more to hit your mark. But because HICAS then runs out of turn angle the rear then starts to take over and you will slide the rear a bit, especially if you set the car up a bit harder on the rear bar, or you compression slide like I do in the auto and GTR. So now your are winding off lock, and maybe oversteer a bit so HICAS turns out of the corner trying to turn you around. You can then end up in the tank slapper (or sankey, like a porka 911) and usually a wall is right where you don't want to be.

It's fine for normal driving, but can catch you out as soon as you have a play without warning. So I don't recommend disabling it for everyone, in fact the auto is keeping it as it has to go (5 cars is apparently too many the wife says :rolleyes: ) but I do skidpan stuff in the GTR and drive it daily through some fun places so it has to go.

Bad news is I have only a few R33/34 fabrication kits left and they are more or less spoken for by some mates, but there are plenty of R32/180/Silvia kits left. I have no plans just yet to get more parts machining done until the R32 ones are almost gone as I'm redesigning the threaded inserts for easier fabrication.

I'll see how demand goes though for 33/34 and may bring them back sooner.

All other info is below.

Cheers

Geoff

Hi Geoff, thsi link doesn't seem to work, or is it my stupid firewall?

Instructions

http://url=http://www.skylinesaustralia.co...showtopic=58778

:P cheers :)

Fixed mate, and thanks for the heads up. An extra bit of crap got into my sig instructions.

Hope that item I sent is satisfactory.

:(

Hi GMR33, sorry but I havn't been looking much, and tend to not try to "plug" my stuff by intruding on discussion. If people want them they soon find me.

In this case though I can offer some advice on HICAS, as I have 3 Skyline R33's to compare. R33GTS25tt (yes TT) without HICAS (my poor broken track car), R33GTS25t auto with HICAS and R33GTR with HICAS (soon to be without).

The HICAS is designed to induce understeer over 80kmh. Understeer is considered the safest response for numpty drivers. The problem though when racing/driving at or near the limit is that as you enter the corner on your line, the HICAS then turns the rear toward the corner causing understeer so you turn in more to hit your mark. But because HICAS then runs out of turn angle the rear then starts to take over and you will slide the rear a bit, especially if you set the car up a bit harder on the rear bar, or you compression slide like I do in the auto and GTR. So now your are winding off lock, and maybe oversteer a bit so HICAS turns out of the corner trying to turn you around. You can then end up in the tank slapper (or sankey, like a porka 911) and usually a wall is right where you don't want to be.

It's fine for normal driving, but can catch you out as soon as you have a play without warning. So I don't recommend disabling it for everyone, in fact the auto is keeping it as it has to go (5 cars is apparently too many the wife says :( ) but I do skidpan stuff in the GTR and drive it daily through some fun places so it has to go.

Bad news is I have only a few R33/34 fabrication kits left and they are more or less spoken for by some mates, but there are plenty of R32/180/Silvia kits left. I have no plans just yet to get more parts machining done until the R32 ones are almost gone as I'm redesigning the threaded inserts for easier fabrication.

I'll see how demand goes though for 33/34 and may bring them back sooner.

All other info is below.

Cheers

Geoff

I would love one of these too... count me in if you do another run

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I didnt present too many conclusions because I wanted your opinions and feedback based on your own experiences. I don't know the exact material, but it is similar to concrete and therfor only has valuable strength in compression. The forces on the set material once the head is removed would mostly be in compression since the grout wants to retain its shape and the block wants to return to its relaxed state since it's still within the elastic region. The grout would theoretically make the block more rigid. The exact amount would take a better setup on my end. Thought experiment: Instead of aliens, twist your favorite fleshlite. Now fill it with grout and allow it to sit for a week. Now try to twist it again. Observe what you see. Now get your other one and blow into it. Observe what you see. Now put it into a can and fill the space between your fleshlite and the can. After it sets blow into it. Less movement in torsion and less expansion i hope.   
    • Hi. Yeah i think that DIS-008 should be ok too but i rather asked. The R8 coils are "sadly" no go for me cuz every solution is for forward plenum. The coils are too tall and one of the(4/5 DK) would not fit under stock J-pipe. And being this NA RB20 i dont even know where to get some forward plenum.(and of course i would need other stuff like custom AFM/ECU etc) and that is kinda non sense for NA without boost. I just looking for solutions for my case 🙂  I try look into those Yaris/Corolla ones.  
    • Damn it, no, I topped up before I got to yours I really should look at Costco locations more when I'm out and about burning through fuel
    • Did you hit the one 5 minutes down the road from my place before heading back south? 😛
×
×
  • Create New...