HICAS removal bar fitting for R33

[GTRgeoff]

Just thought I'd provide some detail on fitting a HICAS removal bar. Thanks go to Shane for providing pics. All threads are standard right hand. R32 info can be found here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...0entry2100796

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ST&f=59&t=93183

The first step is to remove the electrical wiring from the HICAS unit which is located behind the rear diff (pic1) which will be cable tied away later. You can even cover the contacts with 'leccy tape as Shane has done.

Next you need to remove the lock wiring on the rubber boots at each end, pull back the boots and then "crack off" the large 4 sided rod end so they are easier to remove later.

Now the 2 mounting bolts for the HICAS unit can be removed and let the unit hang down so the large 4 sided rod ends can be removed. It is important not to try to remove these when the unit is mounted as there is a lot of force from the wheel stations and injury could result. Now the unit is off, you have

Now the HICAS lock goes in exactly in the reverse order

with the rod ends installed by hand, then fit up the mounting bolts. Remember how hard everything was to undo, well it needs to be almost as tight when refitting or things could come undone under the loads and vibrations of road and track use. Now remember to retighten the rod ends as well and finally clean up the wiring with cable ties. Reinstall the boots and cable tie into place.

Finally, go and get a wheel alignment, or even get the place to install and align. If they say it will take them more than 1/2 hour to install they suck so go somewhere else that won't rip you off.

Now go and enjoy the feeling of precise powerslides and control (if in a GTSt) without the computer trying to "help"

I welcome those who have installed the R32/180SX/Sylvia bar to provide their detail on hydraulic hose fitting sizes and insights into their fitting.

Cheers

Geoff

Edited April 18, 2006 by GTRgeoff

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

Just a side note that will help, it is a really good idea to crack the tie rod ends that go into the rack before to remove the rack, the order that is stated in geoofs tutorial. With the rack out its a real handfull as the tie rods are actually connected right through the rack and spin so you need a big vice, to big shifter and all this gets messy. Cheers.

[makaveli]

Hi Guys,

I would really like to know how to install the hicas lock bar on a 32.

thanks

Mark

[Lazy-Bastard]

Thanks for the bar Geoff, sorry it's taken so long to get back to you.

Just for peoples information regarding the HICAS warning light on the dash.

I was stuffing around with some stereo stuff in the boot and thought...."I don't need that HICAS ECU anymore...I'll just pull it out", and so I did.

Lo and behold....no more HICAS light

I just presumed that someone else would have tried this before as a fix or removed it anyway, but I guess not.

Anyway someone else with a lock bar give it a go and let us know if it works for you.

[Lazy-Bastard]

Update on the HICAS ECU:

I now have no power steering at all.

I read in another HICAS thread something about the weight of the low speed steering being effected, but I have no power steering at ANY speed.

Not sure whether I like it or not yet. The steering is quite heavy even in fast corners but it actually feels more direct and comunicative. I will have to take it for a decent run through some more demanding corners and see if I can deal with it long-term. I suppose I could just carry the ECU aroung and plug it back in when I was feeling tired/lazy

[always_me]

so what our saying is with the hicas lock bar on, you have no power steering, is that with 32 models to

[Lazy-Bastard]

No. When I removed the HICAS ECU under the rear parcel shelf I lost the power steering. It works fine withe the ECU plugged in but you get the warning light on the dash.

This is in an R33. I have no idea about a 32.

[GTRgeoff]

Maybe check the power steering fluid, but certainly plug it back in and see what happens.

Mine felt a bit low on power assistance after I installed mine, but only in slow corners and now I run almost 7 degrees of castor it isn't noticeable. The light removal is all I have done.

The 33's have variable, speed sensitive power steering, and at about 80kmh get harder in the steering. Try it on a dry skidpan sometime . I expect the HICAS computer is at fault here though from what you say.

[Col-GTSX]

I found in my boot yesterday a Tomie Hicas Lock Modual. It has about 5 wires coming out of it and going into the hicas ecu. Whats the go, is this a cheap nasty way of doing hicas lock.

I didnt even know i had it. Just found it stuck to the ECU with double sided tape yesterday.

[Lazy-Bastard]

I think the Tomei ones use shims to stop the rear control arms from moving rather than remove the entire HICAS unit

[Col-GTSX]

That makes sence....

Sounds good to me....

Tried to source info on the unit but couldnt. All i could find is that it costs a lot more than your way.

[gtr jason]

can someone please give me phone number to order one thanks

[muaythailuke]

Yeah those tomei ones do use shims to lock the hicas, all that modual does is stop that warning light on your dash coming on and they are about $240 i think. My lock bar cost me about $60 and about 1/2 hour of my time to install, and I think I can put up with the little light for a saving of $180

[|PRESA|]

Is it 100% necessary to have the rear aligned after this bar in put in?

Bob Jane charged me $95 for a wheel and balancing =

[GTRgeoff]

Time to find someone else for the aligment. just get the rear done.

[Lazy-Bastard]

Is it 100% necessary to have the rear aligned after this bar in put in?

Yes!.. the rear toe on mine was all over the place after I fitted the HICAS bar. So much so that the wheel alignment guy had to have about 4 goes backing it up onto the ramps because it was "steering" from the back wheels.

[GTRgeoff]

If you are confident enough you can have a rough go at aligning the rear visually, making sure it has a little toe in rather than toe out. Many say that they install the bar and the alignment is almost spot on when they go to the tyre shop, but there are those ones that aren't right and it can be dangerous if not corrected soon, hence my instructions to get the alignment checked. Really should not be more than $30 if the front is good.

[|PRESA|]

I had a go at doing this the other day and Sh!t the 2 mounting bolts are on tight.

I don't think I could have ever tighten those two bolts as hard as they were to get off, so I've decided I'll leave it up to the tyre blokes.

I'm due for a set of tyres, might as well have them install the bar and do the wheel alignment all at once, true?

[williamsf1]

anyone have some feedback on the R32 GTR HICAS bar fitting? and is removing the light the fix needed? no powersteering problems after this? curious.....

[GTRgeoff]

try jarrod, R32bigboy I think is the nick to try.

The bolts don't have to be that tight, but as much as you can with, say, a 1/2 inch breaker bar. Just tight, not super tight.