Spark Plugs

[ross80]

Mine was doing the whole possesed thing around 3500-5000.

That was with some shitty bosch plugs. On holidays now so ill start it when i get home.

I bought some of the copper resistar type ngks with a 8mil gap, and I also siliconed up the coils. So Im hoping it will work now.

[konect]

This is what I am doing over easter. Have siliconed around the metal bracket on all the coils and am going to change back to 1.1mm gap plugs. FYI I previously had BCPR5ES 1.1 and changed them to 6's @ 0.8 and the car is missing all over the shop.

See what happens. BTW for those of you that might be aware of how hot the coils get. I drove my car home from work, reversed in the driveway the spent about 30 preparing stuff before I touched the coilpacks. Even after this time (no coilpack cover installed) the packs were so hot I had to use gloves to remove them.

No wonder they crack after 16years.

[jezzerrr]

can shomebody answer my queshtion please

[R33S2]

The gap of the old plugs was .8 too. What does this point to?

The higher boost that you were running

So my question is this - what is the better option, re-gap the plugs or increase the boost again?

Increase boost again, if it pops and such turn it down and dont boost too much untill you do. Regapping the plugs would only confuse the situation as you have to figure out why it was pinging, as it didnt do it all the time with the old plugs did it?

[jezzerrr]

Thanks Terry

yeah the gap was .8 before I got it tuned up (ie the boost increase, and a few other things fiddled with). it actually only started popping after I removed the plugs to check their condition... I thought it was the coil pack wires shorting against the block, because I forgot to put their carriers back on. Replaced them, and the same thing. It only happened when the car was up to full temp, I got away with a few hard launches (after about 15 mins of driving) after replacing the carriers, thought all was well, then it did it again. once up to full temp it would do it like clockwork.

So just to clarify, pinging isn't really audible in a loud car yeah? I know what it sounds like yet I heard nothing of the sort. the car just started hesitating - but then maybe this was the (stock)ecu retarding timing, hence not hearing the pinging... tho I was under the impression that the stocko didn't have that much control.

I was actually more interested about the spark plug gap as more of a diagnosis of the idle drop... just interested as to why the idle would drop.. if anything I was expecting it to go up a tiny bit due to having a better spark, given that the heat range and gap were the same.

I'll try upping the boost again today, I'm 99% sure that it was the plugs, but I have to throw in the curve ball of the crap fuel up here where I live. Although I threw a bottle of octane booster in and it did the same, so I'm more inclined to believe the plugs were the problem. I'm just at a loss as to how taking them out and putting them back in would have such a detrimental effect.

Edited April 14, 2006 by jezzerrr

[bbe]

i ran the copper ngk's 6's changes to 7's ran like crap both with point 8 gaP THEN I CHANGED TO IRIDIUMS .8 gap lost power down low but likes 17psi now allway to 9 woo woot

but for all round i think the 7's in copper at .8

just my 2 cents

[R33S2]

One the originals questions of this thread was/is does handling the stock coil packs help in killing them, I suppose its not worth considering, because if they're going, so is performance, and spark plugs get checked.

I was told that to check them use a multimeter set on Ohms with one on earth (base where it bolts on) and inside sparky hole, a reading over 0.9 is dodgy and over 1.5 stuffed. I havent tried it yet just lazy I guess.

Confirmation anyone?

[bilbo117]

One the originals questions of this thread was/is does handling the stock coil packs help in killing them, I suppose its not worth considering, because if they're going, so is performance, and spark plugs get checked.

I was told that to check them use a multimeter set on Ohms with one on earth (base where it bolts on) and inside sparky hole, a reading over 0.9 is dodgy and over 1.5 stuffed. I havent tried it yet just lazy I guess.

Confirmation anyone?

hmmm... doing this kind of stuff at work (not car related however), id be more inclined to remove the coil and check that way. the nissan workshop manual will have correct resistances for testing coils, yours do sound about right but...

[jezzerrr]

Just an opinion, but I have doubts that the earth for the coil itself would be the mount, more likely that it's one of the three prongs on the connector... they do such a good job insulating the coil from the mount, and all the problems start when the coil starts arcing the to it. with this logic, the lower the resistance the more cause for concern...it should actually be null.

again, only speculating atm... just keep it in mind if you come up with a dodgy result. also, if handling them was a problem, copper plug could probably be the worst thing to do for them...

Edited April 15, 2006 by jezzerrr

[bilbo117]

Just an opinion, but I have doubts that the earth for the coil itself would be the mount, more likely that it's one of the three prongs on the connector... they do such a good job insulating the coil from the mount, and all the problems start when the coil starts arcing the to it. with this logic, the lower the resistance the more cause for concern...it should actually be null.

again, only speculating atm... just keep it in mind if you come up with a dodgy result. also, if handling them was a problem, copper plug could probably be the worst thing to do for them...

yes, thats what i also think.

one side of the spark plug is grounded through the head. so the primary side of the coil would have its 12v inputs which are switched. and the output (secondary side) would be on the electrode and the block? that makes sense to me.... anyone else?

Which means to measure the coil, you simply disconnect the plug and measure the primary winding?....

[The Dan]

Primary windings are measured with a multimeter set to ohms. Connectors go on the + and - pins. Pin identification can be made by looking on top. Readings should be between 0.6 and 0.9 ohms.

1.5 is acceptable but I would consider saving for new ones. I have seen them working fine as high as 2.5 but usually over that and you have a definate missfire.

Secondary windings can also be measured but if secondary windings are stuffed then the coil will have a missfire all the time.

[R33S2]

Glad I didnt try the other way, Thanks Dan.

Jezzerrr: That is is the only thing that would make a differenece given everything else is the same (electrics), Did you try the old plugs again? Even new plugs have problems.

[dan cohen]

hmmm....

What is the difference between a "BCPR6ES" and the "BKR6E-11"?

other then the gap difference, they are both copper plugs with the same heat range correct? I bought the BKR6E-11's after i found my local shop didnt have the normal plugs in stock.... however, the BKR6E's have the same number as the iridium plugs without the prefix, and were listend under the performance column. can anyone shed light on the diferences?

BCPR's are jap spec ones, and refer to the height of the isulator on the plug. BKR's are ISO spec ones, and have a slightly shorter insulator length on the plug. Only like 2mm shoter, so it makes no difference really. The coil pack spring takes up the slack for the height difference, so both fit fine. BKR's are heaps easier to get here in Aus. Heat range etc is the same. Cause Skylines are jap spec, they refer to BCPR's in plug fitting guides.

I run BKR6E-11's gapped to 1mm, but have splitfires. With stock coils, I would run 0.8mm gaps, which is what i used to do with oldish stock nissan coilpacks to avoid 4500rpm misfires.

[Busky2k]

If anyones gonna go copper, you cant go past NGK's V-Power design.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/cars...1200&country=US

The BKRxE series are the V-Power plugs with the grooved electrode.

The BCPRxES series are the ordinary plugs.

If you want the V-Power in the BCPR range, you have to get the BCPRxEY series. The BKRxE series are far easier to find from my experience.

[Craved]

might try out the gooved ones, after i swap in the BCP7R-11 at 0.8 gap .. and split fires..

0.6 gap on the std coils is missing too much....

this is my job for the weekend..

whats the price differences on the BKR vs BCP series NGK's?

[The Mafia]

If anyones gonna go copper, you cant go past NGK's V-Power design.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/cars...1200&country=US

The BKRxE series are the V-Power plugs with the grooved electrode.

The BCPRxES series are the ordinary plugs.

If you want the V-Power in the BCPR range, you have to get the BCPRxEY series. The BKRxE series are far easier to find from my experience.

Right on the money

[copycutter]

This is what I am doing over easter. Have siliconed around the metal bracket on all the coils and am going to change back to 1.1mm gap plugs. FYI I previously had BCPR5ES 1.1 and changed them to 6's @ 0.8 and the car is missing all over the shop.

See what happens. BTW for those of you that might be aware of how hot the coils get. I drove my car home from work, reversed in the driveway the spent about 30 preparing stuff before I touched the coilpacks. Even after this time (no coilpack cover installed) the packs were so hot I had to use gloves to remove them.

No wonder they crack after 16years.

This is what happened to me. I replaced the spark plugs in my rb25 from whatever was in the half cut to BCPR5ES11's (Heat Range:5, Gap:1.1mm) and had misfire problems up high in the rev range. I also had a boost leak at this point so I fouled them up real quick .

Then I was told by a few people on this forum when I asked for a specific part number of what to change them to, and I eventually ended up getting BCPR7ES-8 (Heat Range:7, Gap:0.8mm) and these were no help at all. If anything, they were worse!

I eventually sought advice from a workshop, who recommended I install a different type of copper NGK plug, called the V-Power's.

The part number is totally different, something like R6EY something something. I'll post it up if anyone wants it exactly, but the bottom line is perfect all through the rev range. NO MISFIRES!

The V-Power one's have a different shaped head on them and different firing pin i think.

Hope this helps people.

Cheers, Nick

[Craved]

worked on my issue of the weekend ..

installed new splitfire coils, and found that i already had BKR6EY plugs gapped at 0.6 ....

its ALOT better but i still get hessitations(missing) over 15 psi of boost ..

have a set of BCPR7ES i gapped to 0.8 sitting there to try as well.. but from what i have read the 0.6 gap shouldn't affect anything at all..

so i'll have to continue investigating..

[Trex101]

If anyones gonna go copper, you cant go past NGK's V-Power design.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/cars...1200&country=US

The BKRxE series are the V-Power plugs with the grooved electrode.

The BCPRxES series are the ordinary plugs.

If you want the V-Power in the BCPR range, you have to get the BCPRxEY series. The BKRxE series are far easier to find from my experience.

How much are you guys paying for the NGK V-Power copper?

[Busky2k]

$3.50 AUD ea or there abouts.