Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I deleted the neo plug in first post, as I could not find it on the nkg website, I've asked before but does anyone know what they are using in the Neo?, the $650 is for NEW stock coils in factory box.

It is confusing yes and with so many things that affect the firing properly I have learnt from this that the best way to track a problem is to check,

1. your coils for cracks and with a multimeter.

2. the plugs for useability and the right gap/heat for the boost you are running.

3. the fuel is the right Ron rating

4. the tuner did a good job of getting it right.

You can cover 123 easily enough but 4 is harder, it is more to do with the timing that is dialed in for the problem phase but would be a rare one I think. And to think all I wanted to know is what plug to use lol.

  • Like 1

$650 brand new coilpacks I would have thought to be a damn spanking good price.

Either way, with a group buy I dont think its worth it. I went down to my local autobarn (which really arent too bad...) So yeah, went down there. Said I want 12 of these. They said come back in 2 days we'll have them. Low and behold they did. $3.50 each or something. So if group buy fails, you know your going to do 'x' changes a year, just stock up.

Have a look over at NGK's web site and check out their part number break down.

The BKR7E plug without a dash something are pregapped at 0.8mm. 0.8mm will be fine.

Throw a -11 on the end and they are 1.1mm.

Also the S on the end will indicate they are a std non v-power plug.

EDIT: They are around $4-$4.50 each.

i removed V powers from mine n replaced them with bcpr7es which worked great for 2 days them felt yrs old, im gonna gap them to .8 this weekend n see.. got rb25 run bout 10-12psi usualy exhaust the usual did i make right decision n should i gap em down? what do you recomend? thanks

Not sure.. I found the standards at 0.8mm would feel a tad flat in the top end vs the v-powers at 0.8mm.

I'm not sure if it was this thread but I remember some one mentioned they had to gap the standards slightly smaller than the v-powers to prevent break down.

If you have BCPR7ES then they are already at 0.8mm. If you have BCPR7ES-11 then they are 1.1mm.

For 10-12psi you most definitely want 0.8mm.

:P

Opinions on ideal gap size?

as large as your ignition system will support. a small spark doesn't set fire to the mixture as efficiently as a big spark. Therefore you should stick with 1.1mm where possible.

however, if your spark gets blown out by running higher boost then you will have to either gap it down or improve your ignition system. guess which method's cheaper!! :D

as large as your ignition system will support. a small spark doesn't set fire to the mixture as efficiently as a big spark. Therefore you should stick with 1.1mm where possible.

however, if your spark gets blown out by running higher boost then you will have to either gap it down or improve your ignition system. guess which method's cheaper!! :D

1.1mm is no good... He will need 0.8mm. Every body who runs boost needs 0.8mm :P

1.1mm is no good... He will need 0.8mm. Every body who runs boost needs 0.8mm :D

either that or buy new coils :D

Edit - should note that I just gapped my plugs in the 31 down to 0.8 - not worth a full set of coils when gapping is that much cheaper!! :P

Edited by Kinks
either that or buy new coils :D

Edit - should note that I just gapped my plugs in the 31 down to 0.8 - not worth a full set of coils when gapping is that much cheaper!! :P

You'll find even new coils won't make any difference to a good set of coils that are not arcing out.

When I say boost I do mean more than standard. RB20's get away with running a little bigger gap for the boost run.

Depends if the origional coils were nackered or not.

If so then yes the spitfires are better. :P

basically.. If your cars running fine, 12psi or over and running 0.8mm gap, throwing a set of spitfires in isn't going to allow you to run a bigger gap. The spitfire coils are nothing more than stock coils painted blue, they don't offer better performance or anything just a new coil that isn't arcing out on its bracket. :D

Not sure.. I found the standards at 0.8mm would feel a tad flat in the top end vs the v-powers at 0.8mm.

I'm not sure if it was this thread but I remember some one mentioned they had to gap the standards slightly smaller than the v-powers to prevent break down.

If you have BCPR7ES then they are already at 0.8mm. If you have BCPR7ES-11 then they are 1.1mm.

For 10-12psi you most definitely want 0.8mm.

when i oredered them in i asked for BCPR7ES and on the box they came in there was no -11 at the end so if there already at .8 what should i do? just upgrade to the V-powers? the bit i dont get is why they worked absolutly awesome for 2 days then went ghey... for those 2 days it felt like new car !!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • He made that comment in my thread - In my case the vents ARE to lower engine heat, when the car is not moving, which is the only scenario I have heat problems with the aircon on, sitting in traffic, on 40C+ days. I can't imagine a scenario that this NC needs any at this point in time. I do not know if it will actually make my cooling when the car is MOVING worse, and I sincerely hope that won't be the case. If it does, well, um, f**k.
    • Nice, thanks. Thats why I was asking, there'd been a fair bit of discussion in the E90 world about vents and where it makes sense to put one (ie, over the filters is not great as that is inline or slightly behind the struts and in higher pressure area). I struggle with air flow and pressures. It sill weirds me out that a radiator in the boot can work. 
    • Neither really Vents, when located in the right place, will lower the engine bay "pressure", as air has a path to escape, thus lowering the engine bay pressure, thus.....improving the efficiency on the coolant stack (read: IC, condenser, radiator) This is why the Blits vented bonnet on my 33 worked so well, the vent was in the front 1/3 of the bonnet, which put it right after the radiator  If the vents are to far back toward the windscreen, which is a high pressure zone, it can actually force air into the engine bay, causing higher pressure and effectively loosing efficiency on the cooling stack, like the fab of raising the rear of the bonnet, which does allow heat to escape, but only when the car isn't moving  There's heaps of cool "fluid dynamics" info out there, but, I'll attach a video of a 'Merican joint that focuses on "Miatas" as I found it when looking into vents for mine, they explain it way better than me  
    • Poor bleeding. That stupid damping loop in the plumbing that should be completely replaced with a braided hose. Just the first 2 that come to mind.
    • Forgive the potentially silly question but are the vents for bay temps? I've been toying with how to reduce my bay temps because man, it gets HOT in there and a small subtle vent somewhere I think might help. Or, maybe they're to assist with just the intake temps? 
×
×
  • Create New...