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  • 4 weeks later...

After reading all 10 pages, i understand the importance of 0.8mm plugs over 1.1mm in a boosted situation.

However i am still unclear on weather to go for a '6' heat range plug, or a '7' (slightly colder) plug.

1. My car is a daily driver

2. About to get about 220rwKw (seeing boostworx next month to install powerfc!)

3. Want to run 10-12 psi.

Does this mean I should go for the slightly colder '7' range plug, specifically the BKR7E?

Trav33 im in the same boat.

I just had my car dyno'd at 175rwkw with full exh inc dump pipe etc and a pod filter.. running stock boost on mine..

On the dyno we saw a peak boost of 10.48psi.

It misses/knocks around 5500 rpm so my tuner (world reknown soichi) said i needed NGK #7 plugs..

This is my question.. Do i run BCPR6ES or the #7 plugs?

im not going to bother with platinums or iridius as iv heard they are shit.. so yeh!

  • 5 months later...

Sorry to bring an old thread up!!

But i normally run BCPR7ES 0.8

But apparently i heard they stopped making them

SO i bought BPR7ES

^ notice its without the c

Is there much difference? should i use it?

pls do let me know

ok i need some help, im running a rb20 at around the 12psi mark, i noticed at the last drift prac day my engine started to deteriorate, it was stuttering up near the 4k mark, had issues idling and would often stall when coming down from above 2-3krpm, also felt different coming from acceleration to deceleration as i lifted the throttle at high revs. now i thought this could have been heat issues with the igniter module and coilpacks etc breaking down, but it continued the next day and still having it a week on. now i got shaun at boostworx to have a quick suss, couldnt see anything serious, so my thoughts have turned to plugs. i know they havnt been replaced in a while, i cant remember what went in there as it was about 1.5 years ago.

my thinking is that from the hard work the engine did the heat or something has broken down some probably already warn plugs and this is the cause of the issue.

so i guess my next question is what do i go to next, ive read through the whole thread and the recommendations seems to be at base for 12psi the BCPR6ES – 8, but ive also read about the v-power and that sounds like a good idea too, and the BKR7E etc.

my head is bursting with all those codes so im not even gonna bother with trying to remember what is what.

but yeh i guess what im asking is what plug would be the best for me? the car does get used on the track and the engine does get a work out so would going the higher temp one a better idea? i think the gapping at 0.8 and the v-power design is the way to go for my car, but yeh the temp thing is probably what's not too clear for me a the moment.

Pull them out and have a look.

In the past I've found the BKR7E to be fine; they would only foul 'slightly' if I left the car idling to warm up. Simple drive the car soft; no need to idle for minutes upon minutes. :laugh:

I know Shaun likes his 6's but I've found 200rwkw and over they tend to come out looking a little hot. Drop 7's in and they look just right.

lol you found some old Y's.. NGK dropped the Y from the BCPR6E range a good 4-5years ago.

The BCPR6E and BCPR6EY are the exact same plug. V groove and all.

Motortraders do BCPR6E spark plugs for around $2.85 each. Which is a bargain. :domokun:

haha well, turns out i already had some in there and they werent really f**ked besides some carbon build up. so a night's work later and some cut to f**k hands and no difference. on the good side, i took it up the hill and thrashed it a bit and ended up with a car that now miss fires the whole time not just under boost. wait for new thread.

Didn't crack by doing it the slackers way and not removing the cross over pipe instead using a swivel? :)

haha nup, i took of the crossover pipe and strut brace and everything, it was just as the back where theres a few hooks and cable tie ends where they have been cut (the worst) sticking out, as well as my dodgey aluminium can recirc valve gasket i made which stuck out of the BOV and often into my hand. i hate working on engines, suspension i can deal with, everything else i can deal with, but engines, nope.

  • 3 months later...

Hey guys I noticed when I changed plugs the other day that the BCPR6ES plugs I'd had in there for ~14,000km still looked in fine condition (and ran fine too) but about 5 out of the 6 plugs had a rust coloured ring around the white part (where the white part goes into the silver nut/thread part). I gather this is due to heat. I did overheat the car one time but shoudl I go to a 7 heat range? Anyone else experienced this before?

I run a RB20 with R33 turbo, 12psi (0.8bar), runs very rich 10:1 above 3500rpm.....

Maybe I need to run 0.9bar to get the correct AFR's? It has a Blitz Super Computer sticker on the ECU.

Fixxxer

Hey guys I noticed when I changed plugs the other day that the BCPR6ES plugs I'd had in there for ~14,000km still looked in fine condition (and ran fine too) but about 5 out of the 6 plugs had a rust coloured ring around the white part (where the white part goes into the silver nut/thread part). I gather this is due to heat. I did overheat the car one time but shoudl I go to a 7 heat range? Anyone else experienced this before?

I run a RB20 with R33 turbo, 12psi (0.8bar), runs very rich 10:1 above 3500rpm.....

Maybe I need to run 0.9bar to get the correct AFR's? It has a Blitz Super Computer sticker on the ECU.

Fixxxer

The discolouration is due to electrical discharge, quite normal. Wipe it off and put the plugs back in the engine.

Cheers

Gary

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