Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ARE YOU SURE YOUR CLUTCH ISNT SLIPPING??

sounds like thats what it is to me, makes sense....under load boost increases rapidly and revs increase rapidly while giving you less power.

but you prob know what clutch slip is....mayb something more complex than i could understand lol.

Grab the profec manual and double check the setup.Two things previously mentioned was checking hoses and waist gate,I`d go with those first.If a work shop installed the ebc then double check for sure.After twenty five years playing with cars I Know if you look at something long enough you`ll work it out.

you need a biger wastgate flap. period :(

On a standard turbo? i don't think so. He has mentioned a few times that they have replaced the hi-flow with a std turbo, but fault still exists.

Having read the other posts i would;

1/ Remove the pin that attaches the actuator arm to the wastegate flap and ensure that flap moves freely.

2/ Then disconnect the exhaust from the dump pipe.

ie: remove front pipe, cat and catback system.

Have you replaced the hose to the actuator?

Have you attached the actuator hose to a differant location?

actuator hose has bee replaced with thicker hose and is attachted back to where it was before.

we will try to drop the exhaust and see how it goes, and the actuator arm test aswell....

if the exhaust is dropped and the problem is fixed does that mean it could actually be the stock dump pipe? because the exhaust system is fairly flowing

Change your dump pipe and try it.. suprised to see a high flow put on a car before a dump pipe actualy.. ive seen it happen.. also try wire the wastegate flap open and take it for a drive.. sure it will be gutless but see wat it does

if it makes boost high up in the rev range than the wastegate hole is to small and

but if it still does the same thing with a stock turbo it would be a bit wierd for the standard dump pipe to be affecting it but it could be possible

Sounds like a problem with your boost controller or your boost controller stepper motor which is the mechanical device that will control how much pressure etc. Try buying ableed valve for 20 bucks install that and disable your boost controller. Manually control your boost and see if it still happens. -- if still happening sounds like an actuator problem! Best of luck..

ps hope it does not cost you too much money. I have a problem with boost surge at the moment which i am trying to diagnose although could be an expensive excercise? -- might just replace my turbo and boost controler as it will save wasting money on stuffing around in the long run and i believe my problem to lie with these two items. Plus new bigger turbos are fun!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
    • I was surprised to see all the quick Jack models at the same prices on there. But yeah, grabbing one at 20% off would be great.
×
×
  • Create New...