Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ARE YOU SURE YOUR CLUTCH ISNT SLIPPING??

sounds like thats what it is to me, makes sense....under load boost increases rapidly and revs increase rapidly while giving you less power.

but you prob know what clutch slip is....mayb something more complex than i could understand lol.

Grab the profec manual and double check the setup.Two things previously mentioned was checking hoses and waist gate,I`d go with those first.If a work shop installed the ebc then double check for sure.After twenty five years playing with cars I Know if you look at something long enough you`ll work it out.

you need a biger wastgate flap. period :(

On a standard turbo? i don't think so. He has mentioned a few times that they have replaced the hi-flow with a std turbo, but fault still exists.

Having read the other posts i would;

1/ Remove the pin that attaches the actuator arm to the wastegate flap and ensure that flap moves freely.

2/ Then disconnect the exhaust from the dump pipe.

ie: remove front pipe, cat and catback system.

Have you replaced the hose to the actuator?

Have you attached the actuator hose to a differant location?

actuator hose has bee replaced with thicker hose and is attachted back to where it was before.

we will try to drop the exhaust and see how it goes, and the actuator arm test aswell....

if the exhaust is dropped and the problem is fixed does that mean it could actually be the stock dump pipe? because the exhaust system is fairly flowing

Change your dump pipe and try it.. suprised to see a high flow put on a car before a dump pipe actualy.. ive seen it happen.. also try wire the wastegate flap open and take it for a drive.. sure it will be gutless but see wat it does

if it makes boost high up in the rev range than the wastegate hole is to small and

but if it still does the same thing with a stock turbo it would be a bit wierd for the standard dump pipe to be affecting it but it could be possible

Sounds like a problem with your boost controller or your boost controller stepper motor which is the mechanical device that will control how much pressure etc. Try buying ableed valve for 20 bucks install that and disable your boost controller. Manually control your boost and see if it still happens. -- if still happening sounds like an actuator problem! Best of luck..

ps hope it does not cost you too much money. I have a problem with boost surge at the moment which i am trying to diagnose although could be an expensive excercise? -- might just replace my turbo and boost controler as it will save wasting money on stuffing around in the long run and i believe my problem to lie with these two items. Plus new bigger turbos are fun!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Damn it, I was at work last night, and stayed in a room there during the storm with the car outside, but undercover, I just went downstairs and well....there was a large steel locker that has come from some place last night, it wasn't anywhere I could see yesterday, and yeap, it landed on the fraking car....of course it did..... LOL So, I'll need to take it back for paint and panel, luckily it was only the boot that took the hit, so it could have been worse Serves me right for staying at work and getting on the cans with some of the boys
    • Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
×
×
  • Create New...