Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was bored. Came home from the pub and wacked "turbo" into an ebay search.

Came up with a few things.

I currently have a R33 GTST and im wanting to do a turbo upgrade. Dont want to spend too much, but dont want some cheap peice of shit hanging off my manufold!

Give me your thoughts on the following three turbos:

1. - MonstA T70 800HP - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...mMakeTrack=true

2 - BRAND NEW GT28RS - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BRAND-NEW-GT28RS-BA...1QQcmdZViewItem

3 - MonstA T3/T4 T04E 600HP - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MonstA-T3-T4-T04E-6...1QQcmdZViewItem

Out of the MonstA's are they cheap shit or just underpriced turbos?

Give me your thoughts

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104518-quality-or-sht/
Share on other sites

The 2 monsta turbos are probably a bit bigger than you want to run on an internally stock rb25, not withstanding the unknown quality issue.

The gt28rs is probably a bit small (and t2 flanged) something like a 2871 with one of the bigger exhaust housings would give a good result (ive seen 240 rwkw on an rb25 from one) but also it is t2 flanged so requires a new dump, adapter plate, oil and water lines, oil return and possibly a bit of custom work on the intake side aswell.

Once you cost all that up it is probably about the same money as ripping your turbo off and sending it off to GCG for a highflow then bolting it back on when you get it back. No messing with lines, dumps or piping and good for 250+rwkw.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104518-quality-or-sht/#findComment-1924179
Share on other sites

id say bolt on twin t88s with stock ecu and then it should be fine

wont be much lag and will come on boost around 11000rpm

perfect for the street.

have u done a search? the mods needed to make power include more than just the power, generally picking the turbo is the last thing you do. sum up all the bolt on mods you will need to gain the most benefit out it with real hardware then work out your turbo budget. and pick one that suits your power goal, not one that suits an 800hp if you plan to only use 280hp of it.

all of this info is clearly on the forums already on what parts you need and where to get there, just need some common sense and researching done on your behalf.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104518-quality-or-sht/#findComment-1924198
Share on other sites

lets pretend you bolt on the gt28rs and it costs you say 700

then you have to change the flange say 300

then have the oil and water lines done and fitted 150

so its cost you around 1100 then you drive around and hit stock boost cut, so you need piggyback to workaround or aftermarket ecu

then you get a piggyback spend a few weeks stuffing arouind with it and then realise you should have just gotten a stand alone ecu then when you do the stock clutch slips, then when thats ok you max out injectors, then you have to fit new injectors. and so on

you can bolt it all on live on the 230-240rwkw borderline and have everything max out or do it properly and be safe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104518-quality-or-sht/#findComment-1924209
Share on other sites

Chinese mass produced turbos like the above are of poor build quality and last for a day.

I know this because i make turbochargers and have seen what happens all to often to these turbo's.

Buying copied turbos with Garrett Model numbers should be the first alarm to go off especially when there is no manufacturer markings at all on them apart from turbocharger and ar size.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104518-quality-or-sht/#findComment-1924442
Share on other sites

the trouble is everyone wants everything for nuthin these days :(

i want 700hp at wheels for budget of $200, any chance? :P

f**kin ebay is a killer, these turbos, and fake bov's, wastegates, manifolds are absolute shit and if u cant do it properly then dont do it!

whats the point of spending $800 on a shit turbo that aint gonna last when garret genuine ones are only $1600-2K which is gonna actually work and last for a long time.

i think nismoids comment about "i can say i got a gt30/t70 etc sounds like a beast" but it goes slower and runs worse than a stock turboed car is 100% true.

long live the china products, and ebay the classiest performance parts on earth most of the time :lol:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104518-quality-or-sht/#findComment-1924541
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I recently did this to my R33 with the full set from Car Mats Direct, they can't do the vinyl anymore that's advertised on the website due to a supplier issue so I ended up with the Black Loop Pile which looks great. I went all out with rubber sound deadening sheets from Repco and also added the sound deadening foam layer option with the carpet. Makes a world of difference and got rid of all the weird smells in the 29 year old interior. It was a bit of work but I'd 100% recommend it, Car Mats Direct had awesome customer service and quick postage. Replaced my seats with some sporty ones from Autotechnia while I was at it, feels like a new car.
    • Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
×
×
  • Create New...