Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If i could afford to id throw my Power FC to the weeds and install a Motec with CDI and dash logger any day. Im starting to pass the collection plate around now...(passes plate to SK)

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Managing race teams is great, you get to spend OPM (Other People's Money).

When I have enough money to buy a Motec ECU, CDI and Dash for my own car, I will send you what I have left.

Your advice says that for 99.999% of Skyline owners, the PFC is the best option. Like I said, irresponsible.

I still stick by it, for 99.9% of Skylines owners the Power FC is the "best option". When you compare the ALL UP cost, the Motec option is 5 or 6 times the cost of a PFC and Datalogit. As usual, it comes down to budget. When you add that to the cost of a Skyline that has all the necessary parts to NEED and USE that sort of ECU, it only leaves 0.1% of the Skyline owners.

need + budget = very small number of people

This is not to be confused with;

want + budget = much larger number of people.

Let's face it, it you really have the WANT and the budget, you willl get the Motec/Autromic working just fine. But if you sacrifice other things in order to afford the Motec/Autromic, then the car will most likely be slower.

Please show me the inexpensive ones that are as comprehensive and effective as, say, an SMC or SM4.

The Motec/Autronic ECU data logging (as distinct from the data loggers themselves) only record engine data. This means you miss out on large number of other very important (non engine related) data streams.

For example I use the front wheel speed sensor (used for ABS) to compare to the ECU speedo readings (effectively connected to the rear wheels). This tells me very accurately the amount of wheelspin versus forward movement. I also have a travel sensor on the rear suspension that tells me the amount of squat. I could also use a steering angle sensor to show any steering input corrections (was the run straight, if not by how much). A clutch travel sensor to compare clutch modulation with wheelspin and forward movement. Perhaps to show the speed of the gearchange if you use the clutch. Or 2 rear suspension travel sensors to show the differential squat due to torque loadings.

Datalogit seems to do a pretty good job for Power FC's. Plus I use a few of the extra inputs (not engine related) to add to the basic engine data.

AiM units with the combined dash and data logging end up being relatively inexpensive when you include the savings from not needing to buy a range of gauges.

Pi System have the new Delta Lite data logger which is a low cost entry level 8 channel unit.

Having the data is all very well, but you have to know how to use it, how to implement the improvements that the data suggests.

:P cheers :D

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyZDvZmvhik
    • You'd be better off digging a pit and standing under it to shoot it.
    • The easiest way would to be ignore the oscilloscope, grab a multimeter, and make sure all the main connections are right. An oscilloscope will give 99.9% of even technicians so much grief, as they have no idea what things should even look like on an oscilloscope. Which is also even more likely for someone who's first ever major work on a car is this If the battery volts are dropping down so low, the LDV will reboot the ECU, when it does so, it will drop out the start circuit. If this is occuring, the battery voltage should also come back up. Give it a few tests, even simple ones like when you're attempting to crank it, measure voltage from the engine block, to the negative terminal. You might find you've got really bad connections somewhere. My guess is the "new" motor has something like a shit starter motor, at which point, you can swap the starter motor from the old motor, to the new motor. Before I did any of the above though, I'd 100% confirm the battery in the vehicle. Most jumper packs are absolutely useless, especially if a battery has a bad cell for example. Also the new modern "jump packs" if you don't know what you're doing with them, you won't even get them into high current stage. So go back to basics, check the battery, especially with a known good one as a replacement test. Check ALL the wiring, this includes where they're bolted onto the battery, and bolted onto the starter motor. Check all the earth straps are on. Measure your resistances across your earth straps. A good check here is to measure voltage across the earth straps while you're trying to crank it. If you're seeing voltage, you've got high resistance joints! Oh, and once you've done the above, check the battery over again.
    • For most rotisseries, as Duncan has mentioned, you really don't want a full car on it, you want a stripped shell. And imagine how many more weeks THAT is going to add to working on the car...
×
×
  • Create New...