Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm going to Japan next week. Hoping to stay for a year. Was also hoping to purchase a car over there and bring it back as a personal import (R34 GTR if i can afford it, if not then GTT).

Has anyone done this before?

Any problems along the way?

Anything in particular I have to do before I leave?

Any hidden costs that often get overlooked?

Anything else I need to know?

Appreciate any and all help. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104659-personal-import-anyone-done-it/
Share on other sites

In order...

Yes

Yes - keep every record of purchase and ownership possible.

Yes - get in touch with a buyer (in can help you there) and organise to go to uaction and buy a car as soon as you get there - you need to own and drive it for AT LEAST 12 months.

Yes - on a GT-R, luxury car tax. Other than that it's pretty straightforward.

Not really, just make sure you have access to an account for you money (or put it on VISA).

"Any hidden costs that often get overlooked?"

the fact that the govt will charge you GST that includes - the car cost (independantly evaluated for personal imports) + shipping + import tax (so it's a tax on a tax!). Very rude.

the fact that you need a broker in japan - as well as in australia

the fact that customs have fees that you 'might' need to pay (when they say 'might', they mean 'will')

on the plus side - don't get your ac degassed - as you don't need to do that for personal imports. I know people who have been getting it done - obviously dotars isn't telling people the exact rule? Anyway - double check with the EPA

I think most people forget about state registration, green slip, blue slip, insurance etc - don't forget to factor that into your budget :)

The biggest cost over looked so far is the fact that to own a car in japan you have to have a place to park it. If i bought a car and tried to park it where i live it would cost me 50,000 yen 600 dollars a month. you have to have the car in your name for 12 months so do the math. Its important you find somewhere cheap to live if you want a car (japanese suburbia, YUK!).

The law on gas does not change under different car import regulations as it is an environmental law covering any import of banned gas be it a car or a fridge. A r34 sould have newer acceptable gas however.

The tax is 10% gst + 15% duty on the purchase price, as evident on your reciept.

Shaken is also potentially expensive if it needs to be renewed while you own the car. This is a bi-annual (ever 2 years) inspection of your car that usually costs around 2000 to 2500 dollars.

If you come to osaka I can help you buy and ship the car, everything this side covered for 50,000 yen (austion fees customs transport deregisteration etc)

but you will have to park and maintain it for a year, take into account those costs plus 1000 dollars shipping plus whatever your customs agent screws out of you in australia (you can potentially do it your self but alot of reserch involved and talking to retards in burocracy who have no idea what there job is.) tax and a the price of registration in your state. and thats about it.

As an example of the great job that customs agent do in australia, they forgot to tell me two of my cars had arrived and then tried to blame it on me that they'd been sitting at the port for 2 week and hit me with the storage fees which were outragous. In japan it cost me about 2 dollars a day to keep them stored waiting to be shipped and in aus it was about 60 dollars a day. (Acording to the agent)

Go figure

"The law on gas does not change under different car import regulations as it is an environmental law covering any import of banned gas be it a car or a fridge. A r34 sould have newer acceptable gas however."

WRONG:

"If you are an Australian Citizen or Permanent Resident who is returning to

Australia or you are a Migrant, Tourist or Temporary Resident, you may bring

with you your motor vehicle into Australia as part of your personal effects.

However, if the vehicle is a one-off import for your personal use and that it is

not for trade or commerce, you will not require a licence under the Department

of the Environment and Heritage's Ozone Protection and Synthetic Greenhouse

Management Act 1989. Please note, you will only be permitted to import one

vehicle in any licensing period.

You will need to provide to your Shipping Agent/Freight Forwarder or Customs

Broker:-

ァ A copy of your identification/information page of your passport as well as a

copy of the visa that entitles you for entry to Australia;

ァ A statement saying that the vehicle is a one-off import that is for personal

use and is not for trade or commerce and that you the importer will not be

bringing in any other vehicles.

Vehicles in the above circumstances can contain HFCs, HCFCs, or CFCs and will

not require degassing/retrofitting prior to coming into Australia.

Your shipping agent/freight forwarder/customs broker will need to provide this

information to the Australian Customs Service who will contact our office for

verification and clearance.

Your shipping agent/ freight forwarder or customs broker can contact our office

directly on either +61 2 6274 1373 or + 61 2 6274 1237 if they have any

questions in relation to the above.

Kind regards,

Fiona Gardner

A/g Licensing Co-ordinator

Ozone and Synthetic Gas Team

Department of the Environment and Heritage

Telephone: + 61 2 6274 1373

Facsimile: + 61 2 6274 1610"

tax is like this: GST 10% and import duty 10% as it has been lowered from 15.

and momo is right on the storage thing. i have stored a car in japan and it cost about $60 a month. in aus (sydney) it is $60 per day, which is one good reason to find a customs broker that is on the ball. that is sometimes easier said than done though.

Didn't res just bring in 2 cars to australia? his whine red r32 and the q's silvia. Did he actauly own the silvia for a year?

What i'm getting at is, do you actualy have to have owned the car for a year or just have been in japan for a year?

Yeah... my Silvia was an '88, so it came under the (newly updated) 15 year ruling, and I only owned it in Japan for a couple of months anyhow. Having said that though, the work required to get it registered in WA sent me back $1,000 which I hadn't bargained on.

The R32 on the other hand was eligable for personal import, but because I had proof of purchase going back to mid 2004, it was eligable for 15 year import under the old scheme aswell. So we opted to import as a 15 year old car. Either way in this case personal or 15 year old import there wasn't much difference.

We didn't de-gas either car, and we devalued both cars... well I tell a lie... the Silvia was *literally* bought for $700, and I ended up paying a grand total of $22 for stamp duty! Eat it Johnny Howard!! :P Convincing the ladies at the Licensing center was a bit tedious.

When I bought my first two cars In I was told by a few people that I could get away with not de-gasing as they thought it wasnt really enforced but the broker told me they were becoming more strict and the consequences for being cought was not worth it for the measly sum it cost to get done. The people ive helped get personal imports have all bought newer cars so the gas has never been an issue. If it had It would neither have been a profit or an inconvenience to have it removed, per car I think it works out to 6000 yen

Why would you want to bring a car that is under the RAWS scheme for personal import?

I would have thought people would bring down cars that arent under the RAWS scheme as a personal import.

because not everyone has a financial motive for doing it.

because a personal import doesn't need to be stock

because 'yellow plate compliance' according to dotars regulations (paraphrasing) "do not have to comply to any ADRs, only safety regulations"

because it's marginally cheaper than RAWS (of course, not if you add in ownership costs - but that's a moot point if you actually want or need a car in japan)

"If its personal import do u still need compliance , and why do people have to own it for 12 months is this to avoid a tax ?"

compliance is far less strict - it seems to vary from state to state, and from car to car, but some people seem to get away with only having to do things such as * fuel filler cap * baby capsule anchor point * compliance plate

12month limit is to ensure that people are only bringing back a personal item - not trying to run a commercial enterprise.

If you sign a declaration saying you are bringing the car in to Australia for personal use only, you don't have to get the car degassed. But you can only do 1 car per person, per year (I think, something like that). So for the one off importer of an older vehicle, de-gassing isn't required. Multiple cars on the other hand would need to be degassed, and thats why that charge is added to all cars from Prestige, Imports 101 etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had absolutely no symptoms whatsoever that anything was wrong.... I'm very happy it was all spotto'd and re-bled and re-torqued and aligned though. Will be picking it up tomorrow and undoubtedly be like "Oh, that clunk is gone" "Oh, the car really wants to drive straight" "Oh, that pedal feels better" "Oh, it feels like I've gained 25hp" "Oh, the handbrake works now" It should have been a sign that the new Project Mu shoes had 3mm of pad depth on them out of the box, and the OEM ones from 25 years ago that we took out also had 3mm of pad depth, implying the issue was not, and never was the shoes, but we put that down to it not being adjusted correctly. It wasn't, but it wasn't even adjustable at all given one side was boned and the T Junction of the cables was on a 45 degree angle, the non-working side being the one on the massive angle. Obviously when I had adjusted it and reset it and re-tensioned it I had either got it stuck or something along those lines. Oh well. Live and learn and absolutely could have been catastrophically worse so I'm rationalizing it as a win, kinda. I also got the chance to measure the distance between rear rim and the suspension arm/shocks and found a 30mm rubber block only just doesn't fit there. Which is great to know before ordering wheels, when I assumed 30mm was easy. The man with the Porsche adapters has rims that use 23.9mm of that space, so it's safe to assume I have between 23.9 and 29.9mm of space there to play with on the inside. The wheels looked pretty stupidly pokey with the 20mm spacers on the rear, only for me to find that the studs come out another 12mm and the wheel doesn't actually sit flush with the hub because you're supposed to cut your original studs. The wheels do have cutouts that kinda accomodate it, but not fully. So my 20mm spacer was anywhere between 25mm and 35mm. ~25mm and send it will determine on where the wheels sit with the spacers on. When I put the pads in for the track day I will mess around with spacers (with wheels that do not clear studs properly when mounted to spacers) and do more math, for the last time, for the 7th time.
    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
×
×
  • Create New...