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90 R32 gtr

white

cat back exhaust

pod filters

recaro drivers seat

cross drilled brakes

high performance brake pads

tein coilover suspension

n1 vents in front bar

17" deep dish wheels - 9 inch wide all round

57,000 kms

awesome car very quick for minimal mods

10 months rego

located in sydney

car is immaulate inside and out with 1 small rip on dash barely noticeable

Ive finally decided to get over cars and do the smart thing, Buying a house and driving a shit car for a few years ... gonna be very hard to drive a crap car around after owning this but something i gotta do lol

$21,500 ono

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Dude i am quite interested and could be possibly buying it, at the moment i am looking at 1 more gtr that is in melbourne. How is situation with the turbos and engine coz i would not wonna go for the full rebuilt, are ther any other issues? I would be able to offer 20k cash if all good

Cheers

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  • 2 weeks later...

do you have more pictures of the interior, specifically picture of dash, wear on the leather boots, etc..

Furthermore is it possible to get an front shot with more detail.

I live in melbourne - but i will travel for the right car.

Thanks.

Paul

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  • 2 weeks later...

BUMP -if anyone interested please PM or email me rather than reply to this thread and i will email more photos of interior etc

car is on carsales where is another pic on there as well

http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/...rch_distance=25

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    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
    • Are you doing the work yourself or are you paying for labour? 
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