Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

looking at buyin a 32 just a few questions i need to ask about it

firstly the car has 156000 kms - i no rb20dets are tough but is this a little high? i do plan on making it a drift project car so should i be worried about this much km's?

secondly the car is auto, realisticaly using a rb20 box and clutch how much am i looking at for the conversion?

and lastly there is a weird noise coming from the engine, the owner told me it is the idler pulley? is this a common thing with rb20s? and how much to fix this? the owner thinks no more then $100?

thankyou very much for your help

steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104756-r32-gtst-93-mspec-auto/
Share on other sites

156,000km could be high, but then again, if you looked at many other "76,000km" cars you'll find condition surprisingly similar <_< Most from japan have done somewhere from 150,000 -> 200,000km I tend to think by 15 years old, and so many seem wound back on the 32's (esp. the 89/90 ones).. So I'd just go on condition of the car, rather than just km. Don't forget all the bushes, suspension setup, etc, etc if you are going to do any motorsport with it -- that can add up to a lot to replace the bushes, get the right suspension setup, etc, etc in an old car.

Conversion to manual can vary.. but expect about $1000, and a real headf*ck finding all the little parts one by one. If you can get a wreck might be able to snap up a steal on the lot.

"Weird noise" can be anything from like idler pulley like you say, to engine bearings (i.e. rebuild time).. So get it checked out first to make sure it is actually minor. $100 is bullshit, thats what the part will cost itself- not the labour. I would expect around $400 for any workshop price to replace the idler bearing, as just to get to it will take a couple of hours. May as well then do timing belt as well... so really, will be up around $600 for that to be done by a mechanic (depending on where you go of course)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah it factory manual not sure about ratio but it looks like there’s been some work at the rear 
    • so I need a new speedo cable 
    • Throwing my spoon to the soup here a bit.  When I installed a 044 back in 2012, along with the direct power mod, the car became very difficult to start. To a point I burned one starter motor as I was late for work and tried to get the thing going. With some tuning and careful use of gas pedal when cranking it became bearable. Trying to make this short as possible, but the 044 died after 2-3 years, after which I went with an AEM 320lph pump, which also died after about 4 years to my dismay. After that I went with a Nismo pump, and while trying diagnose an emissions problem, I noticed for the first time that my fuel pressure was 5bar/72psi on idle, and that removing the vacuum line did nothing. After monitoring the situation, and removing the direct power feed and going back to FPCM in attempts to remedy it, I noticed there was fuel in the pressure regulator vac line. Kept the FPCM, installed AEM external regu and the car became sooo much better in every way, including starting. And I had driven it like it was for 11 years.. Anyway, I agree these are likely two different problems, and the FP problem you just haven't noticed before. I do not know much about haltecs, but what first came to mind was the CAS, which probably is not there any more. So how is the wiring from haltec to gauge cluster? How is the battery voltage and alternator?
    • Your car was auto before? You have different diff ratio (auto vs manual i think? or n/a and turbo?)
    • +1 for getting a screen off alibaba, CarPlay/Android Auto is vastly better than whatever navigation cars had 10 years ago. I got an Android screen for my 2015 BMW, huge difference. Fully compatible with factory stuff including iDrive controls.
×
×
  • Create New...